1971 Oldsmobile Rocket (?) Engine Rebuild

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Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
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Triana
I'm having my engine pulled Monday morning and taking it to the machine shop to start the rebuild process. I was hoping I could get some feedback/advice on my rebuild. Read below and share your thoughts.


I have a 1971 Oldsmobile Engine. This number is printed on the engine block: 395558 and a 7a. From my research, I believe this means my engine is a 1971 Olds with 7a Heads.
I believe my engine produces 310 HP from the factory. I would like to produce around 425 HP to the flywheel, 400HP to the street. I would like to have it Dyno'ed when it's all done.

This is what I currently have to compliment my motor: 2004r Over-drive transmission, 3.70 positive traction Ford 9" rear end. I will eventually get long tube headers and a H pipe exhaust.
I have a Edlebrock high rise, aluminum, dual plane intake. I also have an edlebrock Qudrajet carb (for a chevy) but I plan on selling that and buying a Demon (Holley).

This is What I Need to Buy:
-Heads: Port and polished. 202 exhaust, 196 intake?? But I'm open to suggestions. Rocker arms.
-Lifters and Performance/competition Cam. BIG LOBE cam. I prefer Lunatti. 270?
-Forged flat top pistons. Bore 40 over.
-Crankshaft. I believe I currently have a cast iron crank. I would like my motor balanced.
-Vatting the motor: bearings and plugs
-I'm not sure of what my compression ration should be; 10:1??
-High performance fuel pump. Performance.
-Inline fuel filter.
-High quality water pump.


Am I missing anything?
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
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425hp at the flywheel would transfer to anywhere from 300 to the wheels to 350. Drivetrain loss is a b*tch. Plus chassis dynos aren't always accurate. Unless you have an engine dyno near you. Mustang Dynos (the small portable ones) are pretty unreliable and take a long time to set up. A nice 800cfm 77-80 Oldsmobile quadrajet would work wonders on that engine. Better MPG but giant secondaries for the fun factor. 202 and 196 sound like chevy heads... edelbrock has a set of aluminum heads for the 455 that can be installed on a 350 (with the 455 intake as well) with minimal machining. If not, look for a set of good iron heads from 68-72, #6 I've read is a good head. Just a 6, not 6a or whatever. The edelbrock aluminum heads have 2.072 intake and 1.680 exhaust valves. I have a little program made by Comp. Cams, it's a virtual engine dyno. It's pretty accurate, but don't take it as gospel. I put in your specs, .040 over 350 with the aluminum heads, 800cfm (quadrajet, but the program has no real preference. 800cfm is 800cfm), small tube headers with mufflers, dual plane intake, etc. Again it's not 100% accurate to real life, but it's within 20hp I'd say. I did a build of my 350, said it made 246 at the crank. Seems in line with my car's 15.0 at 90mph 1/4 time, so I went with it. 375ftlbs though. :p
Anyway, here's a screenshot of your setup:
olds350.JPG
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
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If you intend to spin this motor past 5 grand, you better invest in some good rods. http://www.mondellotwister.com/Crankshafts.htm
Mondello are really the only people that make aftermarket olds stuff. If I were you I'd call em up and see what they say. I'm betting they've built 1000 motors just like yours. Also, if your crank has a big "N" on it, it's nodular. basically the best crank that they came with besides the rare forged unit from an olds 330.
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
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<INSERT LOUD BUZZER NOISE HERE>
There are a few Olds engine builders that do not advertise heavily like Mondildo. The guy running that outfit is a STRAIGHT-UP CROOK! Do not spend a penny there.
Call Bill at BTR ( http://www.btrperformance.com/ ) ; he can set you up with a cam. Iron Olds heads are only good to .474 lift before modification, so I suggest buying a set already done. PM 80rocket over on realoldspower.com ; he's an iron head guy that may have some lying around. Otherwise, get some Ebrocks, and deck them to get desired compression. I believe you have to run an RPM Air Gap manifold to get the intake ports to line up.
Unfortunately for you, most of the good Olds builders are up north. There is Mark Remmel in FL, though. A few guys swear by him, but I don't agree with his cam philosophies. Frank Trimble ( [email protected] ) built my engine here in MD, and does an awesome job. Here's my build: http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic9139.html
Also, 330 cranks aren't that rare. They can be offset ground to 3.5" stroke, and you'll have a 380-385 cu. in. screamer.
 
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Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
28
Triana
425hp at the flywheel would transfer to anywhere from 300 to the wheels to 350. Drivetrain loss is a b*tch. Plus chassis dynos aren't always accurate. Unless you have an engine dyno near you. Mustang Dynos (the small portable ones) are pretty unreliable and take a long time to set up. A nice 800cfm 77-80 Oldsmobile quadrajet would work wonders on that engine. Better MPG but giant secondaries for the fun factor. 202 and 196 sound like chevy heads... edelbrock has a set of aluminum heads for the 455 that can be installed on a 350 (with the 455 intake as well) with minimal machining. If not, look for a set of good iron heads from 68-72, #6 I've read is a good head. Just a 6, not 6a or whatever. The edelbrock aluminum heads have 2.072 intake and 1.680 exhaust valves. I have a little program made by Comp. Cams, it's a virtual engine dyno. It's pretty accurate, but don't take it as gospel. I put in your specs, .040 over 350 with the aluminum heads, 800cfm (quadrajet, but the program has no real preference. 800cfm is 800cfm), small tube headers with mufflers, dual plane intake, etc. Again it's not 100% accurate to real life, but it's within 20hp I'd say. I did a build of my 350, said it made 246 at the crank. Seems in line with my car's 15.0 at 90mph 1/4 time, so I went with it. 375ftlbs though. :p
Anyway, here's a screenshot of your setup: View attachment 72652
Mr. Sony, THANKS a lot! You should see how I'm studying your post like its the Davinci code. Give me a minute to process everything you are saying and I will get back with you for any questions or follow up.
Yes, I've heard Mondello is the go-to guy for Olds....him and Dick Miller. The Machinist whose building my Engine is supposed to be the Olds god of Alabama. He says he will get my parts for me. Normally I would be a bit hesitant but he is highly reputable around these parts. Dennis Mitchell is his name (Dennis Mitchell Racing). You kind of hurt my soul when you were explaining the HP I will lose through the drive train. It seems a little elaborate. I was under the impression those Olds produced 310 HP from the factory, so hearing that I will only put out 300 to 350 after my rebuild is deflating.
Sometimes I hear that getting 400 + HP out of a 350 is a simple task and then others come along and says it a tall order. I don't know what to believe anymore.
 

Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
28
Triana
<INSERT LOUD BUZZER NOISE HERE>
There are a few Olds engine builders that do not advertise heavily like Mondildo. The guy running that outfit is a STRAIGHT-UP CROOK! Do not spend a penny there.
Call Bill at BTR ( http://www.btrperformance.com/ ) ; he can set you up with a cam. Iron Olds heads are only good to .474 lift before modification, so I suggest buying a set already done. PM 80rocket over on realoldspower.com ; he's an iron head guy that may have some lying around. Otherwise, get some Ebrocks, and deck them to get desired compression. I believe you have to run an RPM Air Gap manifold to get the intake ports to line up.
Unfortunately for you, most of the good Olds builders are up north. There is Mark Remmel in FL, though. A few guys swear by him, but I don't agree with his cam philosophies. Frank Trimble ( [email protected] ) built my engine here in MD, and does an awesome job. Here's my build: http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic9139.html
Also, 330 cranks aren't that rare. They can be offset ground to 3.5" stroke, and you'll have a 380-385 cu. in. screamer.

Loud Buzzer heard loud and clear. lol. That's good information. And I agree with your thoughts on the "Mom and Pop" Olds builders..who make not advertise as heavily as Mondello, but are just as proficient and accomplished.
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
113
J
Loud Buzzer heard loud and clear. lol. That's good information. And I agree with your thoughts on the "Mom and Pop" Olds builders..who make not advertise as heavily as Mondello, but are just as proficient and accomplished.
Joe Mondello died years ago. He hadn't been affiliated with Paso Robles for many years before his death.
I've never heard of this Mitchell guy. Hopefully, he knows what he's doing. Oldsmobiles are not and can not be built like Chevies.
 
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MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,828
6,736
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Mr. Sony, THANKS a lot! You should see how I'm studying your post like its the Davinci code. Give me a minute to process everything you are saying and I will get back with you for any questions or follow up.
Yes, I've heard Mondello is the go-to guy for Olds....him and Dick Miller. The Machinist whose building my Engine is supposed to be the Olds god of Alabama. He says he will get my parts for me. Normally I would be a bit hesitant but he is highly reputable around these parts. Dennis Mitchell is his name (Dennis Mitchell Racing). You kind of hurt my soul when you were explaining the HP I will lose through the drive train. It seems a little elaborate. I was under the impression those Olds produced 310 HP from the factory, so hearing that I will only put out 300 to 350 after my rebuild is deflating.
Sometimes I hear that getting 400 + HP out of a 350 is a simple task and then others come along and says it a tall order. I don't know what to believe anymore.
Any motor can be built to do anything given enough time, money, and ingenuity. Hell, there's a guy on the net running an 8000rpm Buick 350 on 20psi.
 
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MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,828
6,736
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Yeah, Mondello isn't what it used to be. Sad really. As flemming said their are others to pick from that may or may more reasonable and knowledgeable.
 
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