1979 Cutlass - all new A/C

Status
Not open for further replies.

BlueCalais79

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 3, 2021
36
25
18
I'll post some photos of this at a later date when I can, but I just got my 1979 Cutlass Calais back from getting the entire A/C system replaced with the Classic Air rotary compressor instead of using the R-4. All I can say is holy S..T what a system! I get ice cold are virtually instantly. My wife is going need a sweater it's so good. This system uses its own brackets. For the first time I am actually able to see my fuel pump and water pump! If either of these croak I will be able to replace them from above the car without messing with any of the A/C components.

I opted for the compressor with the painted black version since I didn't want it to look like I had 2 alternators under the hood. I got the Condenser from The Parts Place. This stuff was NOT CHEAP. But I am moving to South Carolina when I retire next year and A/C is a must for all year driving.

My Olds 260 F motor doesn't like it too much but that's just T/S. I note the temp creeps up to 220 when its idling for a time but it goes right back down when the car is moving, so I'll have to watch that more closely when I am stuck in traffic. I have a heavy duty aluminum radiator in it as well as a FloKooler w/p as I had problems in the distant past due to having a defective NOS radiator long ago.

Original Air touts this system as using only a 2 to 5 Horsepower drain as opposed to 12-15 with OEM stuff but we'll see about that. With 105 horses to start it would be nice to turn on the A/C on the highway and not feel like you are downshifting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users

I-AM-JD

Apprentice
Jan 7, 2020
65
15
8
Sacramento CA
I'll post some photos of this at a later date when I can, but I just got my 1979 Cutlass Calais back from getting the entire A/C system replaced with the Classic Air rotary compressor instead of using the R-4. All I can say is holy S..T what a system! I get ice cold are virtually instantly. My wife is going need a sweater it's so good. This system uses its own brackets. For the first time I am actually able to see my fuel pump and water pump! If either of these croak I will be able to replace them from above the car without messing with any of the A/C components.

I opted for the compressor with the painted black version since I didn't want it to look like I had 2 alternators under the hood. I got the Condenser from The Parts Place. This stuff was NOT CHEAP. But I am moving to South Carolina when I retire next year and A/C is a must for all year driving.

My Olds 260 F motor doesn't like it too much but that's just T/S. I note the temp creeps up to 220 when its idling for a time but it goes right back down when the car is moving, so I'll have to watch that more closely when I am stuck in traffic. I have a heavy duty aluminum radiator in it as well as a FloKooler w/p as I had problems in the distant past due to having a defective NOS radiator long ago.

Original Air touts this system as using only a 2 to 5 Horsepower drain as opposed to 12-15 with OEM stuff but we'll see about that. With 105 horses to start it would be nice to turn on the A/C on the highway and not feel like you are downshifting.
Morning. If you don't mind me asking what did that a/c install run?
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user
Oct 14, 2008
8,823
7,775
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Yeah, the R4 are junk, factory and aftermarket. What fan and do you have the factory shroud? A thick cylinder wall Olds 260 is very easy to cool, check the accuracy of your gauge with a temp gun.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,614
12,683
113
Michigan
I replaced everything in my 86' Regal's factory R4 system and most parts are 4 seasons including the HD compressor, I believe the parallel flow condenser is Spectre.
I bought parts over a couple year span planning for when the engine went in so it cost me probably less than $500 for everything including making my own hoses.
The end result is it works great and the 355 SBC isn't even phased when the AC is on (I had planned on installing a solenoid to kick the idle up if needed) I have a Champion aluminum radiator and a new thermal clutch and a 6 blade 18" fan with steel hub and aluminum blades and using a 1" spacer to set it in the factory 307 shroud where I wanted it, the highest temp it got sitting in constant traffic was 190 but runs 180 the rest of the time.
As much as I like cruising with the windows down in my Monte it is such a pleasure to jump in the Regal on a 90+ degree day and stay cool in a Gbody for the first time in decades.

IMG_20210103_174830129 (1).jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 6 users

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
17,596
113
That's the key with using an R4 compressor. You need to run with the HD unit, not that light duty POS. Plus, you need to ensure you match the connector for the lines on the back so you can make sure the hose fitting gaskets are properly seated and tight. Early ones are straight across, later ones are stepped.

If you're overheating at idle, check if timing is right, then check your fan clutch for proper operation.
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: 1 users
Oct 14, 2008
8,823
7,775
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
That's the key with using an R4 compressor. You need to run with the HD unit, not that light duty POS. Plus, you need to ensure you match the connector for the lines on the back so you can make sure the hose fitting gaskets are properly seated and tight. Early ones are straight across, later ones are stepped.

If you're overheating at idle, check if timing is right, then check your fan clutch for proper operation.
Good info on the HD compressor, is it an aftermarket thing? A ton of these failed over the years. I know guys who bought aftermarket over the years and had short lives on them as well.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
17,596
113
Good info on the HD compressor, is it an aftermarket thing? A ton of these failed over the years. I know guys who bought aftermarket over the years and had short lives on them as well.
Not exactly. I guess I overstepped by calling it an HD, when technically it wasn't. Production units were often called HD units, although officially designated as "standard R4 compressor" and many OTC replacements were light duty. Even the factory units weren't very reliable because the friggin' things have no oil reservoir. Plus, the front seals absolutely SUCKED. If you got lucky, they wouldn't leak, but most weren't that lucky. Nice design idea...not. The standard units were about 7" long, the light duties are just a hair over 6".

Main difference is that the production units have the big honking clutch on the front and has a strong clutch comparatively to the light duty. The light duty has the flat faced clutch. The clutch systems are not interchangeable between the two. Early units also has SAE threads and later ones used metric. Theory is, the standard R4 can withstand more pressure than the light duty. If you have a good one, keep it. Once you start having problems with an R4 compressor, it's usually downhill from there.

I guess if you used a Sanden or other newer style compressor, you'd be miles ahead. They were built for the higher 134a pressures where the R4's were not, even though they mostly survive 134a conversions. Even GM started offering cross-flow condensers in the last of the offerings of G-body parts until they too got discontinued. They were thinner requiring having to bend in the condenser mounting clamps a bit to keep the mount tight.
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: 2 users

BlueCalais79

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 3, 2021
36
25
18
You are on the money, It's a Sanden Compressor, I'm really hoping it lasts alot longer than these R-4's do. In fact I just replaced the R-4 in my black/silver 79 Brougham with another R-4 due to the old one leaking, I wanted that car to stay looking somewhat original as it only has 60,000 miles one it and the paint scheme is rarer than a Hurst Olds of that year (silver on top, black on bottom, it's usually the other way around). I don't have this concern with the blue 79, I want function over originality every day.

My new A/C system is the GM Stage I kit from Original Air and it cost $635. Since I have an Olds motor they did not have a Stage 2 or Stage 3 kit available (has more components). I had to get the new condenser from The Parts Place.

Also, thanx for the tip on the temp, I'll check both, I suspect it's going to be my fan clutch, it's original to the car (I've owned this Calais since 1984 and I'm the 2nd owner).
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
17,596
113
I cannot recall the exact compressor but in the 2000's I recall the local GM dealership parts manager having a new rotary style compressor that looked like a Sanden sitting on the counter when I walked in one day to order more G-body stuff. He told me it was used on the new Cadillacs of that time and said they couldn't keep enough on the shelves to replace them under warranty. They just went through this a few years ago with 2014-17 Tahoes, Silverado, Sierra trucks. It must have been around 2002 or 2003 because I just recalled in that same discussion he had to show me his "new" Colorado that just came out. Which was model year 2003. Man I'm getting too old to remember junk.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor