1982 up wiper switch in 1981 down columns

[pagrunt]

Since I asked about putting the column wiper switch into a non-wiper column in another thread, I figure to check out the columns I have to figure this out myself. Did some looking inside the upper bowls of the columns I have in the garage to see if there was any physical differences to convert non-wiper switch columns to have the switch. From what I can see there is not any differences between the '86 one & the '81 one I'll be using. Even looked at my '78 one & the same. I even looked over the loose switch I have & it'll mount the same way as the lever only mount/switch activator (or what the proper name is for that part.) The only pain will be having to take the upper bowl apart to swap out the parts.

 

[PVDave]

There are two different types of different column mounted wiper switches, and additionally, each type is offered with a non-pulse or pulse version (pulse = delay wiper option).

The internal design between the early and late systems are completely different and the components do not interchange. Look at the wiper motor on your vehicle to determine which switch to use (see picture). If the motor is barrel shaped, use a column mounted wiper switch for a 1983 model. If the motor is a smaller diameter cylinder, use a column mounted switch out of a 1987 model. Once you've decided what type of motor you have, be sure to order your switch with or without the pulse option as well.

D/S

 

[pagrunt]

There are two different types of different column mounted wiper switches, and additionally, each type is offered with a non-pulse or pulse version (pulse = delay wiper option).

The internal design between the early and late systems are completely different and the components do not interchange. Look at the wiper motor on your vehicle to determine which switch to use (see picture). If the motor is barrel shaped, use a column mounted wiper switch for a 1983 model. If the motor is a smaller diameter cylinder, use a column mounted switch out of a 1987 model. Once you've decided what type of motor you have, be sure to order your switch with or without the pulse option as well.

D/S

Actually ours cars have four, early & late non-delay for non-tilt columns, early & late delay for tilt columns. Then there is the non-tilt delay that atleast the F-bodies used, which I believe those too have early & late p/n's. The change of the wiper motors was done either in '84 or '85.

 

[ELCAM]

Not sure of the year they changed with out looking at wiring diagrams. Early the switch grounds the circuit and the +12 is to the motor. Later is the motor is grounded and the +12 comes from the switch.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Are the later model wiper motors any more reliable than the earlier and notoriously finicky ones?

 

[pagrunt]

Are the later model wiper motors any more reliable than the earlier and notoriously finicky ones?

The washer pumps are since they are electric unlike the earlier mechanical ones.

 

[64nailhead]

The washer pumps are since they are electric unlike the earlier mechanical ones.

I have to say that to get the washer pumps to work reliably it's easier to install a relay to run an aftermarket inline pump triggered by the factory wire. The factory washer pump design and function sucks IMO.

 

[69hurstolds]

Are the later model wiper motors any more reliable than the earlier and notoriously finicky ones?

About the round tube-style constant pumps? Yes and no. If you have one in a daily and use it regularly within reason, great. Best pump out of the two.

If you're parking it for a good while, it may be good to flush the tube/pump with water if you're storing it for the winter in a place that doesn't freeze. Why? Because the LAST thing you need is to pull your car out of storage, try to spritz the window for the first time in 6 months, and get NOTHING. I mean, NOTHING. No whirr, no clunk, bump or any indication the pump is trying to work. Easy fix though, once you go through the PITA to get the pump out. Just pop the cap, and clean all the crystallized crap out of the impeller that was once washer fluid. Then put it all back together and it works fine again!

If you don't have the issue of the fluid drying in the lines, then IMO, the constant pump beats the mechanical pump hands down. The mechanical ones are pretty touch and go sometimes trying to get the valves to seal at the right time, keep the tri-o-ring gasket sealing all those, and the piston seal from screwing up.

 

[pagrunt]

I have to say that to get the washer pumps to work reliably it's easier to install a relay to run an aftermarket inline pump triggered by the factory wire. The factory washer pump design and function sucks IMO.

On my original non-delay motor I installed a Trico O.E. looking electric pump since the original died around '91 & got tired of those add on ones that had the life span of a fly. I still need to get one like that for the delay motor unless I get brave to retro fit a later motor switch into the column. Odds are laziness will over ride.

 

[69hurstolds]

Are the later model wiper motors any more reliable than the earlier and notoriously finicky ones?

I misunderstood the question as discussions were going on about pumps as well.

The later model wiper motors are far and away more reliable than the barrel type (earlier version). They're sleeker and faster in high speed than the older style, but that doesn't mean the older style is terrible.

If I had a chance to do so, I'd upgrade to the newer style motor and pump if possible, if you want to keep things kind of stock looking. It may take some rerouting of the wiper wires, obviously, since the switch would move from dash to the column, but it shouldn't be that difficult. The problem you may run into is CD4 RPO, aka delay wiper. It would require an operable circuit board to control the delay. AFAIK, there's nobody repopping those. They're fairly durable, but they do fail, and when they do, replacement is usually the answer. Without it, you're screwed. There may be some people that can repair them, but I don't know who is doing that.