I just had the car redone and ready to replace all the striping bought the complete kit from phoenix graphics and they are not lining up like the factory ones any ideas would sure help or gm part # s
1985 Olds Cutlass 442 Gold Striping
- Thread starter Jmac
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Part of the problem with the aftermarket stripes is the clear between the gold on the decals. The original GM stripes were body colored. This meant that the factory didn’t have to be exact when applying the silver painted lower portion. The GM stripes covered that up, in addition to also being body molded correctly,
I had this issue years ago, I hoped there would be a decent aftermarket kit that addressed this by now. Just getting back into my 442 over a decade later there still is no option.
And a lot of the NOS stripes that are still around seem to have lifted from the paper backing in some spots.
I had this issue years ago, I hoped there would be a decent aftermarket kit that addressed this by now. Just getting back into my 442 over a decade later there still is no option.
And a lot of the NOS stripes that are still around seem to have lifted from the paper backing in some spots.
If you want, I can check on that if you like. I have a few complete black car 85-87 stripe sets, all GM NOS stuff. Wasn't NOS when I got them, but they are now I guess.
I’m at the local hospital at the moment. I’ll check later when I get home. My BIL fell at work and broke his arm and hip. I will check later when sh*t calms down around here.
Tips for applying 85-86 GM 442 stripes:
Use plenty of application wetter, or application fluid and a semi-soft squeegee. The decals are best installed with the "wet" method. If you don't know what that means, google it. Or better yet, take it to a place that specializes in car vinyl applications.
Use the automotive low-tack masking tape to help lay down straight lines. There's not much room to cover that body color break with the upper body color stripes. It may also be prudent to lightly tape the stripes to the car to dry test fit to get an idea where and how you'll approach each stripe.
First, it is advisable to remove the side marker lamps, or at least loosen as to allow the bumper cover surround by the lamps the ability to be moved away from the quarter panel or fender. Quarter and front fender stripe ends actually may end up underneath the bumper cover ends by the side marker lamps.
Front and rear bumper stripes. Start from the side marker end, and for the front bumper, meet in the middle. Overlap the stripes in the front. Stripes should be long enough to start at the end by the side marker and centered, and work your way around. But that's only for reference. These could pose to be a PITA. The stripes are "bent" a little for going around the corners because it's not a flat corner. You'll see when you get there. So you may have to work the stripe back and forth a bit to get that sweet spot for the bend to flow around the corner properly. These are NOT as easy as they appear. Keep them horizontally centered on the bumper area where they go.
Front and rear emblems should be placed on the car before putting on the front and rear 442 numbers. I can't recall off hand, but I made a post several years ago somewhere on where the Oldsmobile trunk emblem mounts. For the front and rear 442 numbers, the cutout on the bottom of the premasking should be placed on top of the Oldsmobile lettering on the trunk and front bumper. It will take an eyeball center though, as the cutout is slightly wider than it needs to be, but not by much. Test fit the decal before pulling the backing off and you'll see what I mean.
(Note: 1987 442 uses a different front decal which is not discussed here.)
The best way to install the side stripes and door 442 numbers is as follows:
1. Install quarter and fender stripes first. flaps and areas that enter door jambs or fenders need to be folded over. It's imperative to get these straight as possible and aligned properly over the wheel wells. Don't kill yourself trying to match it up perfectly with the bumper stripes, though. They sorta don't. Look at a car with original stripes, you'll see what I mean.
2. Install door stripes next. Ensure you align the stripes level along the doors and even with the front fender and quarter stripes. There are "tit" marks near the end of the stripe mask. This is to line it up to the end of the door panel and still have enough stripe to fold over to the rear of the door panel on both ends. It's easier to adjust the single straight stripe than have to fiddle with a quarter or fender stripe.
3. Finally, install the 442 numbers AFTER the door stripe is installed. The bottom of the masking paper sits on top of the door stripe to align it horizontally with the stripe. The front edge should line up with the front edge with the door and follow the contour of the door. This spaces it back from the door opening automatically in the right place. You'll see Door RH and Door LH on either end of the decal masking.
When installing with the wet method, allow at least 2 to 3 hours or more as needed, to dry. Remove the premask gently and try to pull it back toward you at almost 180 degrees to minimize the chance of lifting the decal. Go slow, and stop if needed if the decal starts to lift. Work the premask off carefully, and DON'T get in a hurry. Don't wash the car for a day or two until the adhesive gets to full strength. Remember, there isn't a slew of places you can get a new replacement stripe if you ruin it.
Here's some pics of my 87 stripes to illustrate things don't always line up.
Note, you can barely see it, but the front bumper stripe doesn't horizontally match the front fender stripe. Factory crap...rears are the same way.
Here you can see the overlap on the front bumper stripe. The RH laps over the LH. Thus the LH gets installed first. YMMV.
Use plenty of application wetter, or application fluid and a semi-soft squeegee. The decals are best installed with the "wet" method. If you don't know what that means, google it. Or better yet, take it to a place that specializes in car vinyl applications.
Use the automotive low-tack masking tape to help lay down straight lines. There's not much room to cover that body color break with the upper body color stripes. It may also be prudent to lightly tape the stripes to the car to dry test fit to get an idea where and how you'll approach each stripe.
First, it is advisable to remove the side marker lamps, or at least loosen as to allow the bumper cover surround by the lamps the ability to be moved away from the quarter panel or fender. Quarter and front fender stripe ends actually may end up underneath the bumper cover ends by the side marker lamps.
Front and rear bumper stripes. Start from the side marker end, and for the front bumper, meet in the middle. Overlap the stripes in the front. Stripes should be long enough to start at the end by the side marker and centered, and work your way around. But that's only for reference. These could pose to be a PITA. The stripes are "bent" a little for going around the corners because it's not a flat corner. You'll see when you get there. So you may have to work the stripe back and forth a bit to get that sweet spot for the bend to flow around the corner properly. These are NOT as easy as they appear. Keep them horizontally centered on the bumper area where they go.
Front and rear emblems should be placed on the car before putting on the front and rear 442 numbers. I can't recall off hand, but I made a post several years ago somewhere on where the Oldsmobile trunk emblem mounts. For the front and rear 442 numbers, the cutout on the bottom of the premasking should be placed on top of the Oldsmobile lettering on the trunk and front bumper. It will take an eyeball center though, as the cutout is slightly wider than it needs to be, but not by much. Test fit the decal before pulling the backing off and you'll see what I mean.
(Note: 1987 442 uses a different front decal which is not discussed here.)
The best way to install the side stripes and door 442 numbers is as follows:
1. Install quarter and fender stripes first. flaps and areas that enter door jambs or fenders need to be folded over. It's imperative to get these straight as possible and aligned properly over the wheel wells. Don't kill yourself trying to match it up perfectly with the bumper stripes, though. They sorta don't. Look at a car with original stripes, you'll see what I mean.
2. Install door stripes next. Ensure you align the stripes level along the doors and even with the front fender and quarter stripes. There are "tit" marks near the end of the stripe mask. This is to line it up to the end of the door panel and still have enough stripe to fold over to the rear of the door panel on both ends. It's easier to adjust the single straight stripe than have to fiddle with a quarter or fender stripe.
3. Finally, install the 442 numbers AFTER the door stripe is installed. The bottom of the masking paper sits on top of the door stripe to align it horizontally with the stripe. The front edge should line up with the front edge with the door and follow the contour of the door. This spaces it back from the door opening automatically in the right place. You'll see Door RH and Door LH on either end of the decal masking.
When installing with the wet method, allow at least 2 to 3 hours or more as needed, to dry. Remove the premask gently and try to pull it back toward you at almost 180 degrees to minimize the chance of lifting the decal. Go slow, and stop if needed if the decal starts to lift. Work the premask off carefully, and DON'T get in a hurry. Don't wash the car for a day or two until the adhesive gets to full strength. Remember, there isn't a slew of places you can get a new replacement stripe if you ruin it.
Here's some pics of my 87 stripes to illustrate things don't always line up.
Note, you can barely see it, but the front bumper stripe doesn't horizontally match the front fender stripe. Factory crap...rears are the same way.
Here you can see the overlap on the front bumper stripe. The RH laps over the LH. Thus the LH gets installed first. YMMV.
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