GRAND PRIX 1986 Grand Prix LE

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Gonzo1970

G-Body Guru
Sep 30, 2018
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Figured I would go ahead and start a thread so when I put all these things on, I have a place to put pics and progress.

Car is a 1986 Grand Prix. Bone Stock. 305 4bbl, 200-R4, 7.5 2.xx Open Rear. 50k miles.

Goals:
Daily Driver with a little power.
I am no power junkie, but I am not opposed to it. I see no point in ditching a perfectly good 305. I might as well run it until it needs more than its worth to keep going.
When the 305 goes t*ts up, I am contemplating a 383 or 6.0 LQ9 swap with a 4L80E and a 9" Ford Rear with 3.73's.

But, for right now, and the foreseeable future, its running the 305/200-R4/7.5 10 Bolt.

Engine:
Edelbrock 3701 EGR Performer Intake.
Headman Long Tube Headers with dual flowmater 40 series.
Lets be Generous and say that will make it 240HP/260TQ

Transmission:
No Plans aside from a checkup - I think it shifts a little early, but also read that's normal.

Rear Differential:
Auburn Posi, Richmond 3.73, 28 spline moser axels - or find bolt-in rear diff already posi (proving tough)

Suspension:
Sway bar bolts/bushings already replaced.
Shocks already replaced.
Tires already replaced - 14" 205/70 Front, 225/70 Rear.


That's it as far as the drivetrain.

I did my research, muddled over options here and there (including completely removing the entire drivetrain to retain stock condition/numbers matching/etc.) and decided on the above with the following logic:


I don't see the point in dropping a ton of cash into the 305. Cost prohibitive. Since the 305 only has 50k miles, I don't see the point in Not running it, so I decided to just let it breathe.
If I was a power junkie, I would remove the entire drivetrain, store it for the ability to put it back to "Stock Configuration" and go 383 or 6.0L, 4L80E, and 9" Ford 3.73's.

I don't see the point in beefing the sh*t out of the 200-R4 unless it needs it. If it does, I have a decision point - am I still happy with the 305? - and I will cross that bridge if/when I get there..
My research shows the 200-R4 can handle "up to 330 TQ" (Note: NOT Horsepower). I believe I am being quite generous in saying my 305 is going to be round 260TQ.. In other words, nowhere near the 330 it is rated for, and I don't beat the sh*t out of my car(s) anymore... Neutral Drops are Bad, mmmmmkay?

Same goes with the 7.5" Rear. As much as they CAN'T handle a lot of HP/TQ, I just simply am not producing that much, nor do I beat the hell out of my car at a 1/4 mile track. The car will probably never even See a 1/4 mile track, for that matter. I thought the 28 spline mosers was a good idea and cost effective to add a little strength back there, but I see no point for going any further than that.. Especially with a daily driver that isn't going to be above 300HP/300TQ anytime soon.

Now Granted, I am no spring chicken anymore.. but I am not opposed to flooring it once in awhile at a red light or doing a burnout (if I can! :D ) but its not going to be anywhere near the "Floor it everywhere" - "new rear tires every 3 months if you can afford it after paying all the tickets" type of driving style I used in my 78 Trans Am while in my 20's, early 30's. Am I saint? Hell no.. But I am not the Tasmanian Devil I used to be.

Drivetrain Mods List:

Shocks - DONE
tires - DONE
Sway bar bolts/bushings - done

*headers/dual exhaust - remove Air Pump, etc. associated with stock exhaust manifolds.
*Edelbrock intake installed
transmission health-checked by my transmission guy - seems to shift a little early, but otherwise solid.
read end modified to posi/3.73 or find bolt-in replacement

*denotes have parts in hand.


Non-Drivetrain Mods List:

Tach on A-Pillar - DONE but Needs Paint
Stereo beefed up - DONE - Two 100W Amps for Front 6.5's and Rear 6x9's - EQ - 10" Sub w/300W Amp in a box in the trunk.
Dash Lights changed to Red LED's - PARTIAL - Still have to pull console and replace gear indicator light. When console is pulled, Fiberglass work to fix cracks and properly mount 6.5's up torwards the firewall.
Headlights HID/XEON - DONE but Needs wiring properly run/hidden (I was in a hurry, was going out of town the next day)
FUGLY Stock Steering Wheel Replaced - DONE
Inverter with USB/Charging/AC Power Source in Console for Charging/Laptop capability on long trips - DONE but on a toggle switch now, needs put into Relay system below.
Put a 30A Relay and Power Distribution Block in the glove box for things added that require power (Tach, Inverter, EQ, Sub, etc.) along with a noise filter for the stereo.
HVAC Vacuum disc replaced - get HVAC ability to adjust - see if AC System Functions.
Radar Detector (No Cruise + 1200RPM @ 65mph = recipe for ticket)
Fix Cruise Control - Parts on way
Full Sized Spare - DONE
Jack/4-way - DONE
minimal break-down tool box in trunk - DONE

Driver and Passenger window scrapers
Driver and Passenger weatherstripping
Install Alarm System

I will update this as I go.

-Gonz


headlights.jpg Inverter.jpg Steering Wheel.jpg stereo.jpg tach.jpg
 
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Gonzo1970

G-Body Guru
Sep 30, 2018
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Seller cancelled the auction for the intake after I won it, and immediately refunded the money... claimed a bolt hole was re-tapped, and they didn't feel comfortable selling it without me knowing that...... THEN re-listed it for $21 higher shipping.

Ugh... Called Ebay, they say its against the rules, but really can't do anything about it.. If the seller won't honor the deal, leave negative feedback, is what they told me.

Contacted seller, they asked if I was still interested.. I replied "If I wasn't interested, I wouldn't have paid for it - re-tapping a hole is Not a big deal, but I am not interested in paying $21 more for shipping, nor waiting another 4 days risking getting out bid."

At that point, they were surprised the shipping wasn't the same.. blamed the post office, and said they would look into it and get back to me...

This all stinks to high hell.. Yes, $62 bucks shipped for a Edelbrock 3701 (New, is almost $300) is a steal.. but if you're going to auction something, you run the risk of it going cheap, and you need to honor that deal.

-Gonz
 

ed1948

Royal Smart Person
Aug 6, 2016
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Quinte West, Ontario
Good thread (y)
 

Gonzo1970

G-Body Guru
Sep 30, 2018
898
1,302
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Welp, all I can do is leave negative feedback for that b*tch.. Apparently Ebay doesn't care when people do that.

Moving on...

Was supposed to be Intake and Exhaust tomorrow... At least the Exhaust is still tomorrow!

-Gonz
 

Gonzo1970

G-Body Guru
Sep 30, 2018
898
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Exhaust mission aborted.

Bolts are rusted to hell.. couldn't get a good socket on a few of them.. the ones I could get a socket on, didn't budge after considerable force... The auto hobby shop isn't open sun, mon, tues.. so if I snapped a manifold bolt or two, I would be in bad shape.

Tried to save some bucks, but thats a risk I couldn't take.

For all the thinking I put into this, snapping manifold bolts wasn't something I anticipated.

Going to take it down the street to a hot rod shop and let him put it all on.

-Gonz
 
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1evilregal

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 23, 2009
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Greensboro, NC
you'll love it with headers! glad you thought ahead and are going to have someone do it for you, years ago I was that person people brought it to.....:eek:
 
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