Well my point is the factory gave you a gauge. If it doesn't indicate a problem I wouldn't sweat it. Think of it this way: for as much extra heat that the exhaust pumps into that dinner pan, the other 90% is shedding heat how much more? Could be a wash in the end, try not to overthink it. Just go by what the gauge says.
The King - a 2002 GMC Yukon XL... 496 CI of STILL not an LS!
- Thread starter ck80
- Start date
So we're planning on picking up a couple parts trucks to strip down and build up spare pieces as I've never owned a gmt800 (or any other gmt series for that matter.)
That said, I know nothing about actual SALES prices of ls-junk, and we all know asking prices can be dreamers.
Any 8.1 parts trucks we'd keep the engines of course. But a good buy on a 5.3/6.0? It's junk to me, so.a buyer could have any and everything off it he or she wanted for their conversion.
So does anyone have input on what an asking/selling price ought to be? I'd like to price that into deciding what to buy - or not.
I know mileage counts for something, and anything would at the least have video of it running if it didn't sell before needing to be removed from the parts truck.
That said, I know nothing about actual SALES prices of ls-junk, and we all know asking prices can be dreamers.
Any 8.1 parts trucks we'd keep the engines of course. But a good buy on a 5.3/6.0? It's junk to me, so.a buyer could have any and everything off it he or she wanted for their conversion.
So does anyone have input on what an asking/selling price ought to be? I'd like to price that into deciding what to buy - or not.
I know mileage counts for something, and anything would at the least have video of it running if it didn't sell before needing to be removed from the parts truck.
LS engine prices are all over the board. I've bought two complete minus accessories for $300, but I got lucky and jumped right on them, most seem to be around the 1k mark complete with accessories...
Completed the first towing voyage, by the numbers:
Mostly hwy, with about 30 miles suburb.
Mostly rolling terrain until reaching coastal flatlands
6500# combined cargo+trailer (light load)
281 miles travelled
75-80 mph avg speed hwy A/C on
45-55 mph avg speed suburb, with many stop lights/signs
2300-2500 avg rpm
25.11 gallons gas
That's good for a bit over 11mpg overall. I'll take it.
Mostly hwy, with about 30 miles suburb.
Mostly rolling terrain until reaching coastal flatlands
6500# combined cargo+trailer (light load)
281 miles travelled
75-80 mph avg speed hwy A/C on
45-55 mph avg speed suburb, with many stop lights/signs
2300-2500 avg rpm
25.11 gallons gas
That's good for a bit over 11mpg overall. I'll take it.
Somehow it's been over a month since getting this thing.
Wife has gone from not liking the feel of the cable driven TB pedal effort and always dropping to 50 or 55mph to being used to it and needing to get reminded to back off at 85, 90 mph as the beast never seems to run out of power.
Between the long trip home and several runs to the place near Atlanta somehow its gotten 2500 miles on it.
This last trip there was a couple hundred pounds cargo in back, but, filled I with ethanol free gas. Actually gained a couple of mpg for the trouble, the truck really liked it much better. So for an extra .24 cents a gallon got 2 extra octane plus the additional energy.
Downside is the warmer weather is making the a/c not appear to blow as cold - something that was harder to check when it was colder outside. So time to dig out a voltmeter and check things out...
Wife has gone from not liking the feel of the cable driven TB pedal effort and always dropping to 50 or 55mph to being used to it and needing to get reminded to back off at 85, 90 mph as the beast never seems to run out of power.
Between the long trip home and several runs to the place near Atlanta somehow its gotten 2500 miles on it.
This last trip there was a couple hundred pounds cargo in back, but, filled I with ethanol free gas. Actually gained a couple of mpg for the trouble, the truck really liked it much better. So for an extra .24 cents a gallon got 2 extra octane plus the additional energy.
Downside is the warmer weather is making the a/c not appear to blow as cold - something that was harder to check when it was colder outside. So time to dig out a voltmeter and check things out...
Yeah, to check to see if some of the 20 million (exaggeration) relays and switches that make up the automatic computer climate control are functioning properly.
System showed charge should be good
You said it's blowing less cold, not that it isn't working at all. To me, this sounds like either a weak charge or lack of airflow through the cores. Did you check both low and high side pressures with respect to discharge temperatures? There are charts out there that show the correlation between those that you should expect to see with a healthy system. It will also give an idea as to the state of charge.
So, we've continued working on the truck, and, I've got a dilemma of sorts.
As I think I previously mentioned, there's some minor rust on outer panels only on the truck. So I've got a couple directions we can go with it.
The inner structure panels are all still solid like new and unrusted, not even surface. I've looked and complete gm quarters are actually affordable at wholesale pricing. The local stealershops cost more, even after factoring in shipping.
It's still a 130k mile truck that's got a good 150-200k miles in it. Do I fix all the rust the right way? Or do I just keep it as it is, a cheap tow pig, and either bondo plug it or get some cheapo patch panels and then leave it what it is?
I figure I COULD just buy one or two more of them that have no rust issues and a couple extra options I'd have liked - second row captains chairs, sunroof, etc and leave this one for dirty jobs.
If I DID order the quarters, anyone ever use gmpartsgiant? I never have, but, they seem to have the best price on shipping the pair of quarter panels...
Prices on the big trucks keep going up. So I figure it's the kind of thing that isn't likely to lose all that much value as time goes by, lends towards being worth fixing it. But...
As I think I previously mentioned, there's some minor rust on outer panels only on the truck. So I've got a couple directions we can go with it.
The inner structure panels are all still solid like new and unrusted, not even surface. I've looked and complete gm quarters are actually affordable at wholesale pricing. The local stealershops cost more, even after factoring in shipping.
It's still a 130k mile truck that's got a good 150-200k miles in it. Do I fix all the rust the right way? Or do I just keep it as it is, a cheap tow pig, and either bondo plug it or get some cheapo patch panels and then leave it what it is?
I figure I COULD just buy one or two more of them that have no rust issues and a couple extra options I'd have liked - second row captains chairs, sunroof, etc and leave this one for dirty jobs.
If I DID order the quarters, anyone ever use gmpartsgiant? I never have, but, they seem to have the best price on shipping the pair of quarter panels...
Prices on the big trucks keep going up. So I figure it's the kind of thing that isn't likely to lose all that much value as time goes by, lends towards being worth fixing it. But...
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Gmpartsgiant is legit. I've ordered several parts from them without issue and they don't drag their feet. They're not ALWAYS the cheapest, but most of the time they're a good deal compared to other GM parts dealers.
