2004R

78Delta88

Master Mechanic
Supporting Member
May 23, 2022
372
43
SW Arizona
over the decades as a builder i have converted many early 700 units to hydraulically lock up instead electronically,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Can you elaborate? I've built several over recent years, but not at the level of your experience.
 

stew86MCSS396

Apprentice
Aug 1, 2022
81
18
(808)
I don't proclaim to be a subject matter expert but this can turn ugly really fast...the rear could be done in the car but the front seal would be inaccessible once installed. Depends on the known/unknown conditions of the trans. Fluid condition is a good indicator of condition. I have two in the stable one still installed on an original 100k car that I wouldn't hesitate to run as is with front and rear seal change. The other one, I would of thought the same as it was running when pulled but I let it sit for awhile and decided that it should be rebuilt. First thing that I noticed is the input stator splines is worn almost half way through and would need to be replaced with a hardened one. To replace that, the front pump needs to come out and this is where the snow ball starts of rebuilding the pump and perhaps adding larger boost valves etc. etc.


this package will do it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
This does pique the interest of what's expected in terms of at what rpm/mph does it lock up at? None in 1st bc hydraulically impossible, shift into 2nd then bam!?!? j/k I'm sure it's a 4th only but rpm/mph???
 
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olskool

Apprentice
Sep 26, 2021
63
18
the thing is most of the time the front seal is not what leaks, it is the O ring around the pump or the pump bushing. changing either the bushing or O ring requires a knowledgeable transmission man with the right tools. to do this you need to have the transmission vertical to not get any parts out of place. the pan needs to come off, the filter and TCC needs to be removed from the pump. remove the outside pump bolts and pull pump with puller. take out the 5 inter bolts and separate the pump, remove the rotor and veins and the pump slide and spring, remove the slide pin and small spring, inspect the slide pin for wear, remove the pump bushing from the front to the rear, and pump O ring, press in new bushing from the rear towards the pump seal end, put the body on T/C neck with new bushing installed to make sure in turns free, put in the front seal, install the slide pin and small spring and the pump slide and its large spring and the rotor and veins, put on stator half of the pump body and start the 5 bolts, put the pump alignment pins in and alignment band, tighten the bolts and torque them. put on the pump O ring, put the pump washer back on with trans gel/Vaseline. install pump, torque, spin input shaft to make sure in turns free, install filter and TCC, and pan, and you are done! nothing to it,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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