305 SBC Oil Pan Gasket Remove and Replace NO HOIST OR ENGINE REMOVAL.

Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Thread starter
Aug 2, 2021
1,120
63
I'm told I have to lift or remove the engine to remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.

I want to replace my oil pan gasket but I don't have an engine hoist or stand to remove the engine from the car and do it.

Is there anyway I can lift the engine high enough while it's in the car to remove the oil pan and replace the gasket ?

Also, what's the part number for the one piece leak proof blue rubber steel core oil pan gasket ?
 

Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Thread starter
Aug 2, 2021
1,120
63
Screenshot_20221112-034626-776.png
 

Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Thread starter
Aug 2, 2021
1,120
63
Why are you trying to replace the pan gasket ?
I plan on replacing the pan gasket and the pan and the bolts...

Ever since I installed my timing chain set and cover without removing the oil pan, I've had leaks. I'm also getting a leak to what appears to be my rear main seal...

I'm tired of spending cash on motor oil and zinc additives.. that gets expensive and I'm not able to afford that. I would much rather go ahead, while I have the money and time, buy a new gasket and a new pan and new bolts to stop leaking so that way I don't have to keep going and buying motor oil and zinc additives every month.
 

Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Thread starter
Aug 2, 2021
1,120
63
Smartest way I've seen to lift the motor while it is in the car, is to jack up the motor a bit and remove the engine motor mount bolts and raise the motor a bit more and wedge 2x6 pieces of wood between the motor and the motor mount...

It's either that, or jacking it up by the harmonic balancer which I'm told is a no no because you can bend the crankshaft bearings and would have to replace the crankshaft, which is definitely what I don't want to do.
 

mikester

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 10, 2010
2,693
113
Small town NY
I plan on replacing the pan gasket and the pan and the bolts...

Ever since I installed my timing chain set and cover without removing the oil pan, I've had leaks. I'm also getting a leak to what appears to be my rear main seal...

I'm tired of spending cash on motor oil and zinc additives.. that gets expensive and I'm not able to afford that. I would much rather go ahead, while I have the money and time, buy a new gasket and a new pan and new bolts to stop leaking so that way I don't have to keep going and buying motor oil and zinc additives every month.
I wouldnt try to do the pan gasket without pulling the motor. I remember your post about the timing chain. You put a ton of sealer around the cover and pan because of other issues. . I think you also had a missing bolt. All of that should be fixed when you take it apart.
I know you dont have a hoist. Any rental places in the area ? Rent one. Downside to doing it now is if your doing it outside its going to suck doing it in the cold weather.
When you do this everything has to be super clean before you put it back together or youre wasting your time and money. If you buy a new pan just get a factory style pan. Milidon makes a good one. The one piece gasket depends on the motor. I think they make at least three. Big factor is the location of the dipstick.
 
Last edited:
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

clean8485

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 18, 2005
2,748
113
Ontario, Canada
You might be able to lift the engine high enough in the car to replace the oil pan and gasket, but if you want to replace the rear main seal, you're going to have to either remove the engine, or the transmission, to access the seal.
 

ELCAM

G-Body Guru
Jun 19, 2021
804
93
The old manuals had a procedure for removing the oil pan with the engine installed. The board trick as mentioned above and you have to turn the crankshaft so the front counter weights are up in the block. Have to stress never jack up and engine or stand it on the balancer you will crack the crank and a crack in the front cannot be fixed by welding.

Lisle (sp) made a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" that was for doing the main seal when the engine was in the car. I think it had a Chinese finger ( the woven tube you put both fingers in and the harder you pull the tighter it gets.) on the end of a cable to pull the new seal through.

This is not an easy job for the novice and likely to leak worse than what you have.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact Admin@GBodyForum.com for info on becoming a sponsor