307 Freshening?

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INVUJerry

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 10, 2006
7
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0
Hi guys, 1st time poster. I have an 85 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, that is a good 20-footer, but she needs some help. Right now there is no exhaust past the cat, a hole in the floor, and the intake manifold is leaking, but it runs strong, and the interior is pretty good looking. I need to know where I can get some of these things to fix it up a little, give it some gumption to move out of its own way. I'd like to keep with the 307, since I don't have the means to do a motor swap at the moment, so I'd like to know some places where I can find headers, maybe an intake manifold and what good carb setups there are. Now mind you, I'm pretty new school when it comes to working on cars, and honestly, carbs scare me lol. Just looking for some pointers.
 

1986 Cutlass Supreme

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 16, 2006
21
0
0
New Hampshire
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
31
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Tampa Bay Area
Basically, an Olds 307 really sucks. It will frustrate you to no end and never deliver good performance. You'd be better off finding a 1970's Olds donor car ( Delta 88, 98, Cutlass, Cadillac Seville from 76-78 or 77-79 Pontiac Trans-Am)and getting either a 350 or 403 to bolt right in place of it( Expect to pay from free to $500 for the donor-shop around!)It's not like you have a 442 or H/O and the 307 actually adds to the value. BTW,the manifold is likely leaking due to corrosion which can plague older aluminum engine parts that have not seen proper cooling system maintenance.

As far as carbs are concerned, I was having this discusion in reverse with my 60+ year old neighbor in regards to fuel injection. (He fears it, I don't.) Both do the same things, just differently. Carbs are easy to fix once you understand how they work. Basically, every car needs a higher idle on cold start than when warmed up, all cars have differing timing needs dependant on RPM and combustion efficiency. Fuel needs differ based on load, etc. Carbs are actually cheaper to mess with than EFI, and not too hard to understand. Get a good book on the model of carb you want to play with and read it several times through. Basically, you'll likely have a E4ME Rochester Quadrajet stock on your 80's Olds 307 unless you de-computerize it. The E4ME uses a TPS signal, MAP sensor, O2 sensor, CTS signal and a Barometric Pressure sesnor that tell the computer how to adjust the Air/fuel ratio in the primary circuit via a Mixture Control Solenoid in the carb. It should also have ESC ( Electronic Spark Control) that funcions trhough the distributor and a knock sensor, just like an EFI car. The mechanical parts of the carb are limited to the needle and seat and the float that controls them and the secondary jetting and metering rods. It's all very easy to fix once you understand how.

Getting back to an engine swap, I'd go without the computer if you have no local emissions inspection program. However, I would still run a properly set up Quadrajet carb from a 1966-1986 non computer application. I'd also run a 1974-1986 non computer HEI ignition for it's simplicity and low cost ( it would be likely both of these items will be stock on whatever donor vehicle you get the parts from.). Plenty of parts exist to set up both of these parts cheaply, and even with a new intake you will likely come in way under $300 for your complete ignition and fuel systems- including wires, fuel pump, lines, air filter, etc.

For the floor, you have a few options. Depending on the size of the hole, you could fiberglass it, weld in a piece of new steel cut from a leftover panel or replace the whole floorpan. Reproductions are available from Year One, as are many other popular wear items like weatherstripping, carpets, etc. Ebay can also be a valuable resource. I picked up a full set of four factory service manulas for my 85 Cutlass for around $15-including shipping- a month ago. You'll also want to try and find a local U pull it type junkyard, as 80's cars are still relatively plentiful in these places. I got my 3.23 geared open rear axle for $65 with tax 2 weeks ago at my local yard, and have scored things like a almost new Edelbrock Performer intake for my Chevy 350 for as little as $15 with perserverance. You may also wish to try Craigslist.com for the donor car and parts. Also, try the Bargain Trader, Dibit.com,Yard Sales, swap meets, driving around poorer areas to see what's dead in people's yards, etc.
 

1986 Cutlass Supreme

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 16, 2006
21
0
0
New Hampshire
The 307 does not "SUCK".


If you want more power and worse gas millage,reliability then the 350 to 455 will do.

If you want reliability?and good gas milage then the 307 is for you.There are alot of thing you can do to the 307 to get better performance without breaking the bank.
 

INVUJerry

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 10, 2006
7
0
0
I am really not going to swap a whole motor in the car if the motor in it is fine, but thanks for the suggestion. My buddy does have an 80 Malibu with a sick 383 stroker in it, but that uses a lot of gas, and this car is never going to be a drag car. I was looking on Summit and I saw "Flowtech" headers, seem rather cheap at $118 (seeing as how a single header for my neon is $220). Also, there is the Summit brand header back exhaust, that is about $185, which I will need, since my exhaust right now is fubared. I don't need any emmissions as I registered the car as a "Historic". What I was told by the mechanic is that the Intake Manifold gasket is leaking, and thats why I had a problem going WOT, but does anyone have any experience with the edelbrock intake manifolds? It would bog a little, then take off like hell. I would like a locker rear end for the car, if that is possible. I did notice that it does get somewhat decent gas mileage considering it's age and all that, but nowhere as much as my neon.

Thanks for any suggestions guys.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
31
0
Tampa Bay Area
Yeah, the Flowtech headers are a cheap brand, but that's about right for a low end set of headers. The only thing I would have to see is if the head flanges are thin, because if they are, they will never seal properly. I had this experience 10 years ago with a set from Hedman form my AMC, but they have since thickened their flanges. I have had Edelbrock Headers on my Chevy 350 for 45,000 miles and never had to even tighten them, let alone replace a gasket. They have good flanges and use lockwashers which may be why. ( But they are a little on the small side which is bad for ultimate power) As far as pricing goes, you have to remember that sport compacts are by their very nature much more expensive to build than a domestic musclecar. The market is smaller for them, and they experiece a lot more platform and engine changes quicker than the old American cars did, and have far less interchangeability. Don't get me wrong, I like compacts too. Heck I drive a Nissan Frontier with 242,000 miles on it daily and lust after a 91-94 Sentra SE-R . I just cringe at the cost of parts and mods to make them really quick.
 

INVUJerry

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 10, 2006
7
0
0
Yeah, the only big thing that my neon has on the olds, is that it can turn, and it's a lot lighter. I will make my neon a turbo 13-14 second car with 35 mpg sooner or later. I just want the olds to be my "nice" car. Oh yeah, does anyone know where I can find a trunk lid for these cars? Mine is rusting out.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
31
0
Tampa Bay Area
INVUJerry said:
Yeah, the only big thing that my neon has on the olds, is that it can turn, and it's a lot lighter. I will make my neon a turbo 13-14 second car with 35 mpg sooner or later. I just want the olds to be my "nice" car. Oh yeah, does anyone know where I can find a trunk lid for these cars? Mine is rusting out.

I find them quite often in the local junkyards for around $40. Oh, and believe me, with the right parts, G bodys do handle. They just can't weave in and out of traffic as easily as a subcompact. I miss that about my old 95 Sentra ( but....that's about it!). Get a junkyard setup consisting of the 1.25 in front and .75 in rear sway bar, a steering box off a FE3 or F41 equipped G body and a stiffer set of springs complimented with a set of 16 or 17x8 wheels with 245 width tires and you will be amazed. An aluminum Diesel hood and aluminum front bumper support may also be helpful as these cars are a bit nose heavy. These are somewhat difficult to find, but not impossible. Just be sure to take the lighter hood springs should you find that hood as the steel hood springs are much stronger and may damage the hood.
 

1986 Cutlass Supreme

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 16, 2006
21
0
0
New Hampshire
INVUJerry said:
Yeah, the only big thing that my neon has on the olds, is that it can turn, and it's a lot lighter. I will make my neon a turbo 13-14 second car with 35 mpg sooner or later. I just want the olds to be my "nice" car. Oh yeah, does anyone know where I can find a trunk lid for these cars? Mine is rusting out.

http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm
 

INVUJerry

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 10, 2006
7
0
0
Have you had any experiences with the bolt on trunk lid?
 
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