So try adjusting the high idle down?That's the high idle, it slows down when it warms up...
Thank youNo, you just need to let it warm up and it should drop to its low idle speed.
There's a little cam on the side of the carb body, you can manually flip it with your finger and it will drop into low idle.
Yes, I am going off the factory tach. Once it kicks down the idle setting in drive is around 600. Tack seems to be working properly. The emissions label is still under the hood. I will check it out. Thank you.I'm assuming since you're tossing out a number you have the factory tach. Is the tach accurate? 2000 seems pretty high. Sometimes those little V6/V8 jumpers which simply friction fit on the back of the tach comes loose and creates weird readings. Not saying yours is, just mentioning a semi-common issue on those factory tachs of the day. Later, they fixed that by soldering a jumper on the back. Which is something you could do if your "plug" is loose.
Anyway, your factory setting for fast idle screw setting should be 550 RPM in drive. Then it'll be whatever it is in Park. But you don't set anything using the factory tach. You'll need a separate tachometer hooked up to ensure it's more accurate. Do you still have your emissions label under the hood? It tells you how to set the carb curb idle speed and the settings chart is on there. You have the ILC (Idle load compensator) system which I don't know much about because I'm too lazy to learn it. I've had very little hands on experience with them.
Yes, I do have a tach. Tried the carb cleaner, but not the lubricant. Will try that. Thanks.Do you have a tach? I personally like around 1200 to 1300 rpm, it could be 1500+ rpm which isn't really necessary. And yes, once the choke coil warms up, it should kick right down to curb idle. Carb cleaner then a lubricant may be necessary, if sticking.
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