Grind what’s left flat. Depending on where it’s broken, if anything protrudes out of the head cut the head off a bolt and weld it to the stud. Now use a spacer outside the stud and use a nut on the bolt to pull the broken stud out. It helps to heat the stud boss to release the stud. If it’s broken flush with the head, then grind it flush, centerpunch and drill the stud. Keep checking till you break through the bottom of the stud. You should feel it break through. Drill to just under the diameter of the stud, you should be able to collapse it in just enough for it to lose its press fit.
350 chevy small block question
- Thread starter Jesse80
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I’m curious if the lift of the cam that the rocker slot was too short and the rockers slots were contacting the stud to snap them which means all the others are most likely ready to break also. In which case pull both heads and just have them changed.
If I punch threw the bottom of the stud does that leave an opening into the engine or is there a hollow spot below the stud? I'm asking because I have nothing to weld to its pretty much broken flush with the boss. If there is not a hollow spot then ill take the head off the engine before punching threw the bottom.
Regardless of the course of action I'd remove the heads to correct the problem. The other thing is drain the oil, inspect the oil for any metallic specks, remove & cut open the filter for the same reason. You never know what got where from the the stud breaking.
Chevrolet at one time used to "pin" their studs before they went to screw in studs.Because they would pull out and or break. I believe this may of happened during Trans Am racing. Just how old are your cylinder heads .And are they screw in and or pinned in.?And if they are pinned in I would recommend you have them changed to screw in.You will be happier in the future.
You mentioned the motor was built 20 years ago, does it have a lot of drive time on it? Has anything been changed recently? If the answers are yes and no, then perhaps this stud broke from fatigue or as a fluke. If the answers are something else, then you have something wrong in the setup and this is the 1st of many to break in the future.
What are these heads? Assuming a stock head from something. Be careful in putting too much money into them if they aren't anything special as you'll be spending good money on top of bad - been there and done that unfortunately. If you do manage to pull off the 'in chassis' repair, then you ought to check the rest of them before reassembling IMO.
Good luck - Jim
What are these heads? Assuming a stock head from something. Be careful in putting too much money into them if they aren't anything special as you'll be spending good money on top of bad - been there and done that unfortunately. If you do manage to pull off the 'in chassis' repair, then you ought to check the rest of them before reassembling IMO.
Good luck - Jim
Greetings Jesse & all; My $.02 cents worth. Pull the heads, rent or buy the tool that will cut down the stud boss's & tap for screw in studs. I have a set of ARP 3/8" screw in studs (some wear) I'll sell real cheep ++ postage. Welding seems to be out of the question, so ya gotta drill (be careful NOT to enlarge the stud hole). Better done on a drill press, & once ya get the angle right ya might as well use the tool that you rented or purchased to cut down the other bosses. Of course after you pull all the other studs OUT. But WHY is the real question? If ya can take some pictures of the broken stud, both the part still in the head & the piece that came off with the rocker nut. Then us guys will be able to tell if ya had rocker slot BIND or not. If ya drill on the head with it on the engine use a magnet to get all (?) the shavings. And inspect the rest. Good luck Ole' Bob.
the engine does not have a lot of drive time on it. Family and kids came along and it sat for longer then I would have liked. The current heads are stock 350 heads, nothing special but I don't know the year of them off hand.
I have found a set of heads that should be ready to bolt on if I make a few mods to the alternator and power steering brackets. I also have to check the plug angle of them. The heads I picked up and hope to use are according to the guy 202 - 194 Camelbacks, 600 spring lift with 1.5 roller tip rockers and a 462 casting. they are from a 65-67 302 according to him. and they have a 64 CC combustion chamber.
I am for sure gonna have to get new mounting hardware for the altenator and power steering as the heads I just picked up have no holes for the mounting brackets and ill have to go with a taller valve cover as my current ones are too short.
As far as the current heads on the car im planning on removing them and seeing what it will cost to repair them if they will fit on my fathers plow truck. I have to verify that his engine is a 350 and not a 400, we are arguing about this atm, I just haven't had time to go look to make sure. if they wont work ill toss them on the self and see what happens.
I have found a set of heads that should be ready to bolt on if I make a few mods to the alternator and power steering brackets. I also have to check the plug angle of them. The heads I picked up and hope to use are according to the guy 202 - 194 Camelbacks, 600 spring lift with 1.5 roller tip rockers and a 462 casting. they are from a 65-67 302 according to him. and they have a 64 CC combustion chamber.
I am for sure gonna have to get new mounting hardware for the altenator and power steering as the heads I just picked up have no holes for the mounting brackets and ill have to go with a taller valve cover as my current ones are too short.
As far as the current heads on the car im planning on removing them and seeing what it will cost to repair them if they will fit on my fathers plow truck. I have to verify that his engine is a 350 and not a 400, we are arguing about this atm, I just haven't had time to go look to make sure. if they wont work ill toss them on the self and see what happens.
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