350 chevy small block question

[pontiacgp]

even if it is broken flush with the head there is a still a method of welding a nut to it...put the nut above the stud, and the melted wire will just pool inside the nut and melt onto the top of the stud. If you have TIG it's easier to deposit a drop of metal onto the top of the broken stud, then let it cool and stack another on top until there's enough protruding to set a nut onto, at which time you can go back and melt the drop into the threads of the nut and add more filler up to the point it's flat. You can then weld another nut to the welded nut from the outside of the nuts, then you can used that nut to install another stud to use to pull the broken stud out.

 

[vanrah]

Hi Jesse & all; Some heads older than you! Do your research, read the casting #'s & find out what you have. They may have value?? Possibly enough to buy some much NEWER (better flowing) modern heads that will receive your much later brackets. And I might add the older brackets FLEX a bunch more. These will no dough will raise your compression, more power for sure but will you be buying race gas?? Or melting pistons?? Or luck out with 91-93 Octane? Good luck, Ole' Bob.

 

[Jesse80]

Vahrah, I don't like the high ethanol percent in the gas around here so I only run the 91 or higher octane.
I've gotten the engine ripped apart and the only problem I see with anything is the broken rocker arm stud. im gonna make some calls and see what a machine shop will charge to replace all the rocker studs with screw-ins. Probably gonna replace the hydraulic lifters and push rods while im at it.
When buying new rods do I do I just measure the length of my current ones and order the same? Also if I do go with the older set of heads they have no mounting holes in them, any suggestions on where to get new mounting hardware for the alternator and power steering?
Head casting numbers are 3973487 hard to read in the photo tho.

 

[565bbchevy]

Not knowing what your budget is you might want to consider a set of new better flowing heads that are already set up instead of spending money on converting to screw in studs and getting them gone through and possibly needing a fresh valve job etc.

 

[Jesse80]

Yea, im looking at 3 possibilities and getting prices right now. I was hoping the ones I found for 700 bucks would work but ill have to modify my power steering and altenator bracket locations, and buy taller valve covers for them. Im just not sure what to look for in a new set of heads to go with my lower end, since I cant find any info from when we built it.
Its all still a work in progress till I figure out which way im gonna go with it.
thanks for all the replies and advice

 

[pontiacgp]

have you looked at the vortec head?...it's a bolt on and adds 30 to 40 hp

 

[565bbchevy]

Yea, im looking at 3 possibilities and getting prices right now. I was hoping the ones I found for 700 bucks would work but ill have to modify my power steering and altenator bracket locations, and buy taller valve covers for them. Im just not sure what to look for in a new set of heads to go with my lower end, since I cant find any info from when we built it.
Its all still a work in progress till I figure out which way im gonna go with it.
thanks for all the replies and advice

All of the newer style heads from the 70's and beyond should have accessory holes, I would not waste time with heads without them since most of your brackets require mounting to the head it would be an unnecessary added expense.
I don't know what you would be looking at for $700 that would not have the holes.

 

[64nailhead]

Yea, im looking at 3 possibilities and getting prices right now. I was hoping the ones I found for 700 bucks would work but ill have to modify my power steering and altenator bracket locations, and buy taller valve covers for them. Im just not sure what to look for in a new set of heads to go with my lower end, since I cant find any info from when we built it.
Its all still a work in progress till I figure out which way im gonna go with it.
thanks for all the replies and advice

If it's $700 for the Camel backs, then don't buy them. If you already did, then try to sell them and good luck getting $700 for them (no negativity or sarcasm intended). The easiest way to go is a set of Vortecs, you'll need a different intake though and will also need the correct rockers.

If you can drum up $1000-1200, then a set of Speedway or Promaxx will be an improvement over the double humps and much better than what you have now. Included in the price I mentioned is a set of rockers and pushrods.

Your question about the pushrods cannot be answered until you decide on a head and rocker set up. Basically, a different length pushrod is required depending on what you end up with.

Also, why no love for ethanol in the gas? Don't be misled by all of the propaganda that every part on your car that contains rubber is going to be destroyed in the next year if you use it. It will actually help increase detonation resistance for a high compression build.

 

[bracketchev1221]

I sold my 186 casting 1970 heads all freshly done for $300. For anything more I’d be looking aftermarket. I used a set of promaxx rectangle port heads on a 496 and so far it’s gone 10.30’s with only 2 runs on it. I would use promaxx on a street build.

 

[Jesse80]

I have not looked at the vortex heads. I will when things settle down, working the weekend and daughter has a softball tourney all weekend.
yes it was $700 for the camelbacks, I have them but haven't paid for them yet. they have all the parts minus the rods.
Sorry for all the questions and what not, I just get flustered when it comes to all these numbers. I honestly have no idea what most of them mean and I don't wanna purchase something that wont be compatible.
ill go ahead and look at your suggestions, thanks again.