350 chevy small block question

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Jesse80

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 12, 2018
43
18
8
I did take the lifters out but only 1 at a time to see if any were worn and needing replaced. They all seemed fine and not dished, they currently are in the exact order prior to taking the intake and head off.
Cylinder walls look fine no scratches or obvious wear that I can see.
I’m waiting till Monday to get ahold of the machine shop and see what they think can be done with my current heads and price. But if I have to swap to new heads I was looking at these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-152123
Upon further investigation/questioning my father it turns out he had been driving the car but never investigated the ticking he heard. My best guess is the rocker arm nut came loose and while he drove it, it wore the stud down and it finally snapped. He is now helping foot the repair bill.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
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Actually those appear to be very close to what you have so it would probably be a good alternative the chambers are only slightly smaller 72cc compared to your 75cc and all I can find on your heads for intake runner cc was 161cc so that is also close as the Summit heads are 165cc.
The Summit heads come with screw in studs and 2.02/1.60 valves, while it is possible your heads came with these larger valve sizes they could have also come with 1.94/1.50 valves. All of your parts will carry over to these heads but I would still get roller rockers as an upgrade. IMO
 
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Jesse80

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 12, 2018
43
18
8
Decided to keep my original heads and have the machine work done. Both heads with new screw in rocker arm studs on ran me $200.
Got my gaskets, roller rockers, and push rods today. Hopefully I can get everything put back together in two weeks for the car show.
Thanks for all the info and suggestions on what and how to fix my issue, it’s greatly appreciated.
Added some photos of the parts, engine block number I found, and intake numbers. Just in case anyone wanted to know.
 

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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Before you put it back together and buy head gaskets measure your piston to deck height and figure out what your piston cc is. With this along with the head info you can eliminate all guessing on compression ratio and quench distance. This great and needed info if and when you decide to upgrade cam or heads at a later date. Also if you ever decide to sell it.
 

565bbchevy

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Aug 8, 2011
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Got my gaskets, roller rockers, and push rods today.
79489-78e7957569c61129f81dd0fb2d191304.jpg

For me a "full" roller rocker is the only way to go since I feel roller tipped rockers are just high priced fancy stockers and do nothing to help eliminate friction in the fulcrum area. IMO
 
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pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
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79489-78e7957569c61129f81dd0fb2d191304.jpg

For me a "full" roller rocker is the only way to go since I feel roller tipped rockers are just high priced fancy stockers and do nothing to help eliminate friction in the fulcrum area. IMO

Those rockers will do more than eliminate friction. The stock stamped rockers are never the 1.5 ratio, they vary from 1.43 to 1.48. Those comp rollers are 1.52 and you do feel the difference. I went from the stock rockers to those comp "rollers" and I was pleasantly surprised.
 
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565bbchevy

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Aug 8, 2011
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Those rockers will do more than eliminate friction. The stock stamped rockers are never the 1.5 ratio, they vary from 1.43 to 1.48. Those comp rollers are 1.52 and you do feel the difference. I went from the stock rockers to those comp "rollers" and I was pleasantly surprised.
I think any difference you feel is from having a consistent and slightly higher rocker arm ratio than what most of the stockers would be but I doubt they do much for eliminating friction in comparison to a full roller.
 
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