4 wheel disc problems- solved

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silver46

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 8, 2008
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32
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I am posting here to document the process of my chasing down a terrible feeling brake pedal on my 79 malibu. Car has a 489 bbc/th-400, sn95 8.8 with rear discs. Dual diaphragm 9 inch vacuum booster and larger bore master cyl ( I think from 80's 4 wheel disc fbody, but not sure) Engine makes about 13 inches of Hg at idle. Currently setup with no combo or proportioning valve. 3/16" hardlines from master to tees and stock rubber lines. Front has new cross drilled rotors on stock spindles, and new larger bore gbody metric calipers. Rear has stock mustang rear rotors and calipers.

Bench bled master, 2 person bled, 1 man bled, reverse bled. Times 4. Pushed 2 Gallons of fluid through it. Not getting any air out of it. Tapped all calipers, wiggled all rubber lines. Pedal is very low and won't lock up the brakes. With lines off and ports plugged, pedal is high and hard, with rear rubber line pinched off, no real change in pedal. With front lines pinched off, no real change in pedal. On the original test drive, the front pads hung up and the got warm, the pedal got good and hard during that and would lock them up. I let it cool down and got it home. New aftermarket pads and rotors were overly thick. Pads have now been clearance to not drag. And pedal is still near floor and soft.

Some additional info, a few quick pumps of the pedal will bring it slightly higher. A rev and return of the throttle with pressure on the brake pedal will make the pedal sink (increase of vacuum as rpm drops.) Pressure bleeding fluid from rear bleeders to the master won't move fluid into the reservior, but will bleed out the line cracked at the master, and fluid will bleed from master through rear bleeders. Pumping the brake pedal with engine running, no wheels on, on the hoist, the front calipers stay tight on the pads and don't retract very well i.e. it's hard to turn the rotors. You can push them back with a c-clamp if you open the bleeders but not if you don't.

My current theory, this master has either a built in residual valve or valving that does not allow fluid to return at the needed rate, and does not move the required volume of fluid. Next move, install cast iron 4 wheel disc 79 firebird master with 1.25" bore, bench bleed, reverse bleed the system and test drive. Report back.

If you've read all this and have suggestions, I'm all ears.
 
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vandyman

Apprentice
Jul 16, 2017
68
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18
Did you install new calipers?
Calipers can have air trapped in them.
If the bleeder is on top of the calipers, there is your problem....
 

Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
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I know this sounds stupid, but all the bleeders are at the top of the calipers correct? The master was bench bled FIRST before installation on car?
 

80/MALIBU/COUPE

Greasemonkey
Feb 17, 2021
107
165
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TUCSON AZ
PUSH ROD FROM PEDAL TO BOOSTER AND OR BOOSTER TO MASTER LENGTH?
MIGHT NOT BE PUSHING THE PLUNGER INTO THE MASTER FAR ENOUGH?
DEFFINETLY SEEMS LIKE A MASTER CYLINDER ISSUE
 
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silver46

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 8, 2008
15
32
13
Front calipers are new, rear calipers are a few years old. All bleeders are on top and have even been removed from the bracket/knuckle, put a block in, pointed the bleeder at 12 oclock and bled that way at least once during this debacle.

The master has been twice bled in a vice once using the blocked off port method and once using the looped lines method on the vice. Also been looped lines method bled on the car.

The pushrod gap from booster to master IIRC was something like 0.187 or 0.217 when I measured everything and crunched numbers. checked my math a few times. Not having the stock master anymore, I will compare the current one to the new one and take some more measurements and make a pushrod if necessary.

I appreciate all the ideas.
 

JAMCAR223

Royal Smart Person
Jun 6, 2014
1,853
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Houston, TX.
Being that you installed big bore front calipers & rear discs... both of those would generally require more fluid volume. I think you need a different master cylinder, but you need to confirm what bore size you have now. I'm thinking you need a 1" bore. I would contact malibudave at Manualbrakes.com He is a forum member, and very knowledgeable about brakes for our cars
 

silver46

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 8, 2008
15
32
13
Had a friend over today to help me run through some tests while I wait for a new master cylinder. Pumping the pedal in park locks the front brakes and they stay locked after pedal returns, if you loosen the master off the booster, it allows fluid to return. So...pushrod too long or bad master. Made a 1/8" shorter pushrod, same effect, shortened it another 1/8" same effect. Pushrod is now basically flush with the rubber bushing in booster. Pedal feel is still mushy and near the floor.

Ran out of shop time. Back at it tomorrow new master in hand, I hope.
 
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silver46

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 8, 2008
15
32
13
Installed a 79 firebird disc/ disc master and wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. Replaced the plastic reservoir large step bore master with the all cast iron unit. Tested factory pushrod length, seemed acceptable. Bled brakes. Hard firm pedal. Test drive in the morning.
 

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silver46

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 8, 2008
15
32
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Post- test drive report. The new to me rebuilt master cylinder failed internally and will intermittently push fluid from rear chamber to front chamber while the pedal goes to the floor. Not all the time either, like 1/4 of the time and sometimes mid-stop. So I ordered a new, new delco unit. I hate bad new parts....
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Throw a stock proportioning valve on there. You rears and fronts are at a similar ratio to stick caliper/wheel cylinder combination.

Throw that adjustable out (they suck imho.) you’ll need a larger master cylinder. I’d say yours is toast, but start out with either a B-body or ‘80 Riviera unit.

If you still have the stock master for the ‘79, then you’ll need a smaller external bore master. The ‘80 Riv will work perfectly. I’ve documented this a bunch of times here. My kid’s car has C5/C6 fronts with Seville rears. The ‘80 Riv MC works perfectly with a stock prop valve. If you have ordered a B-body MC, then you’ll find it won’t fit into the booster .
 
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