700r4 shift issue 2nd to 3rd

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JBreu

Royal Smart Person
Jul 15, 2008
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I love the 700r4 transmission I put in this year and think the o/d transmission is the way to go...Hers is a question I hope someone can shed some light on..When in automatic mode all the gears shift well, or at least from what I can tell. When I shift manually from 1st to 2nd the shift is firm and dead nuts...now when I shift from 2nd to 3rd there is a delay or lag....I mean when I put the shifter into 3rd, it seems like at least a second or two goes by before it shifts into 3rd ...BTW, The T.V. cable is properly adjusted. what gives???
 

khan0165

Royal Smart Person
Jul 14, 2008
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Ontario, Canada
there is a slight delay in mine too...
In drive, my transmission shifts around 4000rpm. So at the track, I shift manually at 6000rpm. And the delay between 2 & 3 seems slightly longer than 1 & 2.

I don't know anything about transmissions... but could this be due to the altered shift points in mine? What component controls shift points in a auto trans?
 

JBreu

Royal Smart Person
Jul 15, 2008
2,168
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Livonia, New York
I found this on a post at Hotrodders.com : "You are asking for an easy answer to a difficult question.

1-2 shift is usually pretty firm on the 700, as the large drop between ratios, and the method with which 2nd gear is applied, it is easy to achive a very firm shift.
If the 1-2 shift is not firm enough for you now, you need to install a firmer 1-2 accumulator spring or block the 1-2 accumulator and ensure you have a large enough servo and proper band clearances(the Vette 093 servo will get the shifts plenty hard and the TG kit gets the band clearance in check).
If you block the 1-2 accum you will have hard shifts at part throttle which you do not want.
The good thing about the TransGo kit is it gets progressively harder with throttle.

The 2-3 shift is where it can get tricky. By the design of the trans, the 2-4 band must release and the 3-4 clutch pack must apply to make the 2-3 shift.
The problem is, that the release and application must be timed correctly so that you do not release the band too quickly before the clutches apply, and do not apply the clutches too quickly before the band has begun to release.
If you release the band too quickly, you get a flare, which will feel like slippage, but is a momentary return to 1st gear. When the 3-4 clutches do apply they are effectively shifting the trans from 1st to 3rd gear and it creates alot of heat. Not a good thing becuase the 3-4 clutches are one of the known weak points of the 700.
If the 3-4 clutches apply too quickly, you get a 2-3 bind-up, which is where the transmission is effectively in two gears at once. This is not good because the band and 3-4 clutches are working against each other, placing stresses on the hard parts, costing power, and creating heat and wear on the friction materials.
A bind-up will feel like a very hard shift at heavy throttle.
You can enlarge the 3rd feed orifice in the seperator plate and usually firm the shifts up somewhat. You can play with the band release orifice, make it smaller, play with the servo return spring, etc..

Converter selection has a large effect on shift firmness."

This sounds correct..any ideas????
 

khan0165

Royal Smart Person
Jul 14, 2008
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patmckinneyracing said:
Can someone elaborate on shift points. I didn't know you could alter the shift points in the 700r4.
you can,
the gear ratios don't change, but you can alter the points to shift at a different RPM range

I'm not sure, but it's done by changing the governor... I believe it is part of the shift kit
 

kyhunter89

Greasemonkey
Jul 27, 2007
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patmckinneyracing said:
Can someone elaborate on shift points. I didn't know you could alter the shift points in the 700r4.
shift points are at what point the transmission shifts gears. the valvebody controls it and can be reworked.
 

454muscle

Royal Smart Person
Jan 31, 2010
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Hmmmmm.... ahh, I see... ok. Here's the problem. You don't have enough power going through it. Lol j/k :p
Just to add my 2cents, in my 4L80E it has a manual valve body so I can shift it either manually full time or let it sh*t itself, and there is no slippage. Here's why manual transmissions are touted as gas-savers, and automatics are gas-wasters -- because at any time, the automatic is never fully engaged in drive (slippage). Regardless, it's the slipping time I think you refer to, which can be adjusted by installing a manual valve body and shift kit... take a look at this:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/shift-kits.html
 

jrm81bu

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 9, 2008
3,000
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Antwerp, OH
454muscle said:
Hmmmmm.... ahh, I see... ok. Here's the problem. You don't have enough power going through it. Lol j/k :p
Just to add my 2cents, in my 4L80E it has a manual valve body so I can shift it either manually full time or let it sh*t itself, and there is no slippage. Here's why manual transmissions are touted as gas-savers, and automatics are gas-wasters -- because at any time, the automatic is never fully engaged in drive (slippage). Regardless, it's the slipping time I think you refer to, which can be adjusted by installing a manual valve body and shift kit... take a look at this:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/shift-kits.html

A manual valve body means that you have to shift it yourself, also you should have to put it in first everytime you come to a stop. It shouldn't be shifting by itself.
 

454muscle

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Jan 31, 2010
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Ontario, Canada eh!
jrm81bu said:
454muscle said:
Hmmmmm.... ahh, I see... ok. Here's the problem. You don't have enough power going through it. Lol j/k :p
Just to add my 2cents, in my 4L80E it has a manual valve body so I can shift it either manually full time or let it sh*t itself, and there is no slippage. Here's why manual transmissions are touted as gas-savers, and automatics are gas-wasters -- because at any time, the automatic is never fully engaged in drive (slippage). Regardless, it's the slipping time I think you refer to, which can be adjusted by installing a manual valve body and shift kit... take a look at this:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/shift-kits.html

A manual valve body means that you have to shift it yourself, also you should have to put it in first everytime you come to a stop. It shouldn't be shifting by itself.
My bad. I didn't mean full manual valve body, but a manual/automatic valve body. As per TCI: "That means that most units allow you to manually shift the vehicle into each gear change or, by placing it in the drive position, remain fully automatic. In either mode, you get a racetrack shift that bangs through the gears and shaves time off your ET's. When you use the manual gear selection feature, the Super StreetFighter™ upshifts and downshifts right when you move the lever, with no lag or governor override. When you select the normal drive position, the transmission retains positive, automatic shifts for the ease of driving you look for in an automatic transmission. Read More Here"
 

jrm81bu

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 9, 2008
3,000
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48
Antwerp, OH
454muscle said:
jrm81bu said:
454muscle said:
Hmmmmm.... ahh, I see... ok. Here's the problem. You don't have enough power going through it. Lol j/k :p
Just to add my 2cents, in my 4L80E it has a manual valve body so I can shift it either manually full time or let it sh*t itself, and there is no slippage. Here's why manual transmissions are touted as gas-savers, and automatics are gas-wasters -- because at any time, the automatic is never fully engaged in drive (slippage). Regardless, it's the slipping time I think you refer to, which can be adjusted by installing a manual valve body and shift kit... take a look at this:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/shift-kits.html

A manual valve body means that you have to shift it yourself, also you should have to put it in first everytime you come to a stop. It shouldn't be shifting by itself.
My bad. I didn't mean full manual valve body, but a manual/automatic valve body. As per TCI: "That means that most units allow you to manually shift the vehicle into each gear change or, by placing it in the drive position, remain fully automatic. In either mode, you get a racetrack shift that bangs through the gears and shaves time off your ET's. When you use the manual gear selection feature, the Super StreetFighter™ upshifts and downshifts right when you move the lever, with no lag or governor override. When you select the normal drive position, the transmission retains positive, automatic shifts for the ease of driving you look for in an automatic transmission. Read More Here"


Gotcha! Thought that might be what you were talking about.
 
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