'83 turbo 4.8 Monte

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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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I put in the SSM truss kit and I like it. It has a couple of issues that aren't severe, but it will test your fab skills despite being a 'kit'. I plan to do another if I ever damage this one or get another car. The only reason being price (I'm a cheap SOB). But, if you can afford a prefabricated 9", then that is a crap ton easier. Wraith is in the process of putting in an 8.8 truss kit, and I'm not convinced that he's loving the install, but he's not done yet either.

I made about around 700 whp on the 31 spline stock axles for a bit and never got much faster than 10.6. Then I swapped to 9" big ends that I welded on and went with 35 spline axles and a spool (spool = cheap which fits me).

Regarding the instant center (IC), I believe the 8.8 truss kit allows for a better instant center if you can hit hard - BUT I'M NOT AN EXPERT lol - only offering my opinion. I believe GroceryGetter83 and wingnutks are both running 9" fabricated rears and they both have been faster than I (but I'm comin hehe).


My take on this is that if you can afford to buy a fabricated axle, then do it and don't mess around with the 8.8. I have $1200-1300 in my complete rear - truss kit that includes adjustable a-arms, 9" wheel ends, axles and spool. A 9" from Quicks Performance is about the cheapest one you'll find and I believe that will be in the $2300-2900 range depending on the goodies that you add on.

I have confidence that I won't break this thing, other than maybe some gears, but the junk yard is full of them. 9" gears in the junk yard are unobtainium.


EDIT : should mention, nothing wrong with overkill on a rear end, but turbo cars don't hit hard like a nitrous car - you can get away with less and be faster.
 
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Cobbelstone

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 31, 2021
16
18
3
Tahlequah, OK
I put in the SSM truss kit and I like it. It has a couple of issues that aren't severe, but it will test your fab skills despite being a 'kit'. I plan to do another if I ever damage this one or get another car. The only reason being price (I'm a cheap SOB). But, if you can afford a prefabricated 9", then that is a crap ton easier. Wraith is in the process of putting in an 8.8 truss kit, and I'm not convinced that he's loving the install, but he's not done yet either.

I made about around 700 whp on the 31 spline stock axles for a bit and never got much faster than 10.6. Then I swapped to 9" big ends that I welded on and went with 35 spline axles and a spool (spool = cheap which fits me).

Regarding the instant center (IC), I believe the 8.8 truss kit allows for a better instant center if you can hit hard - BUT I'M NOT AN EXPERT lol - only offering my opinion. I believe GroceryGetter83 and wingnutks are both running 9" fabricated rears and they both have been faster than I (but I'm comin hehe).


My take on this is that if you can afford to buy a fabricated axle, then do it and don't mess around with the 8.8. I have $1200-1300 in my complete rear - truss kit that includes adjustable a-arms, 9" wheel ends, axles and spool. A 9" from Quicks Performance is about the cheapest one you'll find and I believe that will be in the $2300-2900 range depending on the goodies that you add on.

I have confidence that I won't break this thing, other than maybe some gears, but the junk yard is full of them. 9" gears in the junk yard are unobtainium.


EDIT : should mention, nothing wrong with overkill on a rear end, but turbo cars don't hit hard like a nitrous car - you can get away with less and be faster.
A stock car buddy offered to give me a fabbed 9" housing with good axles and no center section. I think all said all done I'll be in it close to the same money between the two. Any welding and fabricating isn't an issue. Just trying to keep from doing this twice if the 8.8 isn't going to hold up. I've got a powerglide with a brake and may play with some spray off the line. I'm a cheap also so that's why I'm mulling it over so much(too much probably). Main thing with the 8.8 that I keep questioning is the c clip eliminators and reading they leak and don't hold up well evidently. See people saying the calipers will hold the axles in but I don't like the sounds of that 😂
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,659
1
12,059
113
Upstate NY
A stock car buddy offered to give me a fabbed 9" housing with good axles and no center section. I think all said all done I'll be in it close to the same money between the two. Any welding and fabricating isn't an issue. Just trying to keep from doing this twice if the 8.8 isn't going to hold up. I've got a powerglide with a brake and may play with some spray off the line. I'm a cheap also so that's why I'm mulling it over so much(too much probably). Main thing with the 8.8 that I keep questioning is the c clip eliminators and reading they leak and don't hold up well evidently. See people saying the calipers will hold the axles in but I don't like the sounds of that 😂
Is your 8.8 from a Mustang?

X2 on c-clip eliminators if you intend to drive it and beat on it.
 
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GroceryGetter83

LS Mafia
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2018
676
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Tampa, Florida
So I need some insight from you guys. I'm contemplating whether I should put the 8.8 rear that I have in this car with the southside swap kit, or put together a 9" for it. Anyone with experience have trouble adjusting IC with the 8.8 swap kit and will the 31 spline stock rear hold up to hard hits repeatedly.
And if I go 9" is it worth while to just do a non triangulated 4 link setup? Adjustable control arms for the g body are around the same price as a 4 link kit. But then I shouldn't have to run an anti-roll bar if I'm thinking correctly. Any insight would be appreciated.
What is the goal of the car? I knew I was going pretty much all out, or will be. So my mantra is, but once, cry once. Ford 9" is pretty much the best out there, but they are heavy and rob some power. Mine has been amazing and there is tons of aftermarket support.
 

Cobbelstone

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 31, 2021
16
18
3
Tahlequah, OK
What is the goal of the car? I knew I was going pretty much all out, or will be. So my mantra is, but once, cry once. Ford 9" is pretty much the best out there, but they are heavy and rob some power. Mine has been amazing and there is tons of aftermarket support.
Goal is to make it as fast as I can get it 😂 did you keep the triangulated 4 link with the 9"? Budget me wants to just use the 8.8, drill the axle hubs, buy the swap kit and run it. But lazy me says do the 9 inch so I'm not doing it twice.
Would the 9 inch with the parallel 4 link not flex the car as bad as the triangulated 4 link? What's yalls thoughts on that?
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,659
1
12,059
113
Upstate NY
Explorer with Trac lock 31 spline and disc brakes
I don't think you'll find a c-clip eliminator for that wheel end. I looked and struck out. And after doing some research and being around a couple of cars (with Mustang rears) that had c-clip eliminators I was glad that I didn't find them. The brake flange mount is not precise, not even remotely. If you stick with that Exploder axle, then weld on some 9" wheel ends and never look back.
 
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wingnutks

Master Mechanic
Feb 15, 2016
420
1,314
93
If u swap to an 8.8 you absolutely need the truss kit. If u swap in a Mustang 8.8 the Uca mounts on the rear are so low compared to a gbody that unless you drop the car into the weeds, the instant center will actually be behind the car.
8.8 can be a good swap if u get a built rear for a good price. Otherwise if u get a stock piece you need to get a better diff, axles, ends/eliminator, weld the tubes, and maybe brace it... Then you still need to spend the $700 on the south side kit. I think it can be cost effective depending on the situation. When I got rid of my GN rear it was either S60 or Strange 9" for me.

As far as parallel 4 link, that is ALOT of work.
 
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GroceryGetter83

LS Mafia
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2018
676
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Tampa, Florida
Goal is to make it as fast as I can get it 😂 did you keep the triangulated 4 link with the 9"? Budget me wants to just use the 8.8, drill the axle hubs, buy the swap kit and run it. But lazy me says do the 9 inch so I'm not doing it twice.
Would the 9 inch with the parallel 4 link not flex the car as bad as the triangulated 4 link? What's yalls thoughts on that?
Mine is triangulated like the stock 7.5”. I wasn’t aware you could have them parallel?
 

Cobbelstone

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 31, 2021
16
18
3
Tahlequah, OK
I was going to go with the south side swap kit with the truss if I went the 8.8 route. Sounds like I should just do the 9" and be done with it. But as far as the parallel 4 link. Is there just not enough room without pretty much back halfing the car? I'm a welder and fitter by trade so that's not a problem, but if it can't be done without extensive redesigning of the whole rear I'll stick with the stock setup and get a chromoly panhard bar kit.
And is there any adjustable rear control arm kit that's better or some to stay away from?
Would go out and look at the car but I'm off on a job, and plan on buying all the stuff while I'm here working so when I get back I can start getting it pieced together and get my glide in. Gonna do both in one swoop instead of having it down twice and having two drive shafts made lol
 
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