Those are the older sbc frame mounts, and yeah they might be back a smidge. The good thing with the ICT and dirty dingo mounts is they're adjustable.
84Cutlass Supreme 5.3LS swap challenges.
- Thread starter krav84
- Start date
- Status
There is an easy way and the hard way. If you have the skills, then fabricate. If you don't then spend the money.
Jake - I'd grind all of that trash off there when the engine is removed and use the factory holes with a set of factory frame mounts, factory clamshells on a set of plates like Scott described. I'm using a set of AllStar Performance swap plates, but the DirtyDingo work well also. The ICT Billets work well also, as well as the Holley.
OP - buy a set of plates as described above and forget about it. Take note in Scott's picture where the frame mount needs to be setting - every GBody has that set of holes needed for a SBC.
Then the issue is with the pan. You need one other than the factory truck pan. Again, Holley makes a great setup, but it's not the most inexpensive. A factory F-body pan is a great idea for a DD, but they are getting to be like chicken lips. If you aren't concerned about having a perfect clearance situation, then an SUV pan works - but it will hang down approx 1.25-1.75" below the cross member. If I had a motor that I had any love for, then I would recommend against using it.
Both of you - there are some great threads in the LS Swap section that are stuck to the top that can really guide you a bunch in terms of parts needed and issues you'll run into. Spend some time reading and you'll be much better for it. My only recommendation to these swaps is to get an aftermarket ECU if you plan to do much of anything beyond stock performance - way easier and you can tune it yourself. And lastly, decide what your budget is, as Fleming pointed out, cheap and easy are not synonymous with 'LS swap'. It's one of those things that once you've finished your first one, then you'll know what you should've done or done differently on the next. But most people don't do a bunch of them, but rather just one.
Hey Tony, im not working right now and wanting to get this car running for a 2-3 month contract job i will have starting in july. it will involve alot of rural farm road driving, perfect for an old car with lotsa clearance and soft springs.
Also, I despise Holley for there over priced sh*t. Im not paying them 300 usd just for motor mounts for an engine that cost me 300usd.
Nor will i ever pay 1300usd for a efi system on a 300 usd engine only to have engine bay heat cook their electronics a yr later.
Anyways, I managed to fab up a pretty good mount yesterday, so good i feel like taking the crappy one off i made before and redoing it and centering the engine as its 1/2 inch off center now.
I had some trepidation about ever removing the bolts from mounting kit cuz 1 or 2 of the 6 got damaged the first time i installed them and removed them to set it farthest position back. one was cuz it was too long & hit the iron block , another got bound up in the aluminum. kit shoulda came with grease/lube as the WD40 i used was too wet and evaporated i guess.
i guess its gonna depend on my welding job i did on the stock manifold....if its pointed far enough away from frame rails to move over that half inch , i will re-do the other mount, otherwise i may have to leave well enough alone.
Also, I despise Holley for there over priced sh*t. Im not paying them 300 usd just for motor mounts for an engine that cost me 300usd.
Nor will i ever pay 1300usd for a efi system on a 300 usd engine only to have engine bay heat cook their electronics a yr later.
Anyways, I managed to fab up a pretty good mount yesterday, so good i feel like taking the crappy one off i made before and redoing it and centering the engine as its 1/2 inch off center now.
I had some trepidation about ever removing the bolts from mounting kit cuz 1 or 2 of the 6 got damaged the first time i installed them and removed them to set it farthest position back. one was cuz it was too long & hit the iron block , another got bound up in the aluminum. kit shoulda came with grease/lube as the WD40 i used was too wet and evaporated i guess.
i guess its gonna depend on my welding job i did on the stock manifold....if its pointed far enough away from frame rails to move over that half inch , i will re-do the other mount, otherwise i may have to leave well enough alone.
And there you have it. Sounds as if you know all about it - over and out.
This is an interesting thread.. building this car on a budget and within a specific timeline is going to be a challenge.
..like it’s been said, grind the welded mounts off, go to the parts store and get the SBC mounts. Put them in the correct holes and use the plates. It’ll fit.
manifolds, since you’re on a budget: hack off the ends of the manifolds and mate it to what you have going out the back of the car.
..like it’s been said, grind the welded mounts off, go to the parts store and get the SBC mounts. Put them in the correct holes and use the plates. It’ll fit.
manifolds, since you’re on a budget: hack off the ends of the manifolds and mate it to what you have going out the back of the car.
Are you keeping the swap stock? If so, have someone delete vats.
Are you keeping the 60e? if so, just keep the stock converter and I would put some anti seize on the back of the block in case you need to pull it apart.
Have you made decisions on the cross member? Driveshaft?
Are you keeping the 60e? if so, just keep the stock converter and I would put some anti seize on the back of the block in case you need to pull it apart.
Have you made decisions on the cross member? Driveshaft?
You pay for simplicity, their system works and requires no thinking. It's It's lot cooler to make your own if you can.
You should make a build thread or keep updating this one with progress.
- Status
Similar threads
