85’ Cutlass Supreme- weatherstripping help??
- Thread starter RPUDGE10
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GM discontinued them years ago so the only way to get oe ones is to find someone selling NOS ones on ebay ect. But I hope your wallet is fat they don't come cheap.
If you mean the outer window sweeps, I got reproduction sweeps from Rock Auto, had to adapt them to the thick chrome mouldings and slightly fill in with RTV. My windows flipped around terribly and had major air leaks, 99% better with new sweeps and adjustments. It isn't only G bodies, the PUI sweeps for my 70S fit like crap on the ittle back roll down windows, I had to literally cut them, too long.
I bought window sweeps, in and out, from A1 Auto twice. The sweeps are wide, which is good. I'd recommend them to any G-body guy. As far as weatherstrip seals, I can't remember for sure the brand, but I think it was soft seal. I had no problem with them, and I installed them at least 4 or 5 years ago. Spend more if you have to, but you'll just be getting hosed.
https://www.1aauto.com/window-sweep/i/1awss00142?f=347592&y=1987
https://www.1aauto.com/window-sweep/i/1awss00142?f=347592&y=1987
From what I have seen between Metro and SoffSeal, Metro is better.
My 2+2 was missing the window seals from a less than knowledgeable previous owner, along with the window sweeps being totally destroyed and missing the door to door frame seal on the drivers door.
I'd say the metro window seal was the best quality part, followed by the door seal and lastly the window sweep. The window sweep I got from rock auto had the holes in the wrong spot and were real tough to keep flat. I have a few spots where the sweep goes up and down, it doesnt have the firm steel backing the GM factory part has.
The window seal fit well, just make sure to use some weatherstrip adhesive and rub down with a good coat of lubricant thats weatherstrip safe. The GM stuff has a soft foam core with a more slippery plastic/rubber coating that allows the window to slide nicely, the metro stuff doesnt however it fit and seals well.
The door seal didn't have the plastic reinforcing for the screws and didnt lay flat like the GM stuff did. It tends to roll over. It pulled a few screws out so I had to add 2 screws in especially around the top rear where it butts up against the window. I had to cut a good 1" square chunk out of the front where it meets with the window and A pillar since it would get bound up with the window when i lowered it.
I experienced about 6 months where the door wouldn't shut well with the new door and window seal. Some silicone spray helped but it still doesn't close as well as my cutlass with all factory stuff.
Im sure the NOS stuff is nice but I don't think its worth the $400+ premium to get it unless you are doing a full factory spec resto or a high dollar build.
My 2+2 was missing the window seals from a less than knowledgeable previous owner, along with the window sweeps being totally destroyed and missing the door to door frame seal on the drivers door.
I'd say the metro window seal was the best quality part, followed by the door seal and lastly the window sweep. The window sweep I got from rock auto had the holes in the wrong spot and were real tough to keep flat. I have a few spots where the sweep goes up and down, it doesnt have the firm steel backing the GM factory part has.
The window seal fit well, just make sure to use some weatherstrip adhesive and rub down with a good coat of lubricant thats weatherstrip safe. The GM stuff has a soft foam core with a more slippery plastic/rubber coating that allows the window to slide nicely, the metro stuff doesnt however it fit and seals well.
The door seal didn't have the plastic reinforcing for the screws and didnt lay flat like the GM stuff did. It tends to roll over. It pulled a few screws out so I had to add 2 screws in especially around the top rear where it butts up against the window. I had to cut a good 1" square chunk out of the front where it meets with the window and A pillar since it would get bound up with the window when i lowered it.
I experienced about 6 months where the door wouldn't shut well with the new door and window seal. Some silicone spray helped but it still doesn't close as well as my cutlass with all factory stuff.
Im sure the NOS stuff is nice but I don't think its worth the $400+ premium to get it unless you are doing a full factory spec resto or a high dollar build.
For sure, the seal that goes around and under the door doesn't have the essential plastic "skeleton" (included in the GM) in either end that ends at the top of the door, at the front and at the rear. I just glued the "ends" in place with weatherstrip adhesive to secure the ends to stop them from being moved around by the glass when rolling the windows up and down. It works.
Since you have a Supreme, you shouldn't have to worry about the wide, shiny molding on top of the door.
If you're searching for OEM, which is difficult to locate, here are the part numbers you seek. As stated previously, they may not come cheap, but obviously, fit the best:
Top of doors, thin silver bead along the sealing strip (fits Regal and Cutlass 2-door):
Inners: 20363106 for RH, 20363107 for LH
Outers: 20674278 for RH, 20674279 for LH
Door opening seals: 20201220 for RH, and 20201221 for LH
G-body Roof Rail Seals (non-T-top): 20154106 or 20737658 for RH, 20154105 or 20737659 for LH (the 658/659 superseded the previous numbers and were considered "softer" by GM per a service bulletin back in the day)
While we're at it, trunk w/s : 20490800 is a cut to length/glue your own (one side has a "nipple" or insert. Don't cut that end). Interesting, the parts book shows 86-88 G47 using p/n 20680006. Don't know the difference. Didn't realize there was one. Hmm.
The aftermarket supplies everything that OEM had. Quality is another story, but you can still get the weatherstrips you need.
If you're searching for OEM, which is difficult to locate, here are the part numbers you seek. As stated previously, they may not come cheap, but obviously, fit the best:
Top of doors, thin silver bead along the sealing strip (fits Regal and Cutlass 2-door):
Inners: 20363106 for RH, 20363107 for LH
Outers: 20674278 for RH, 20674279 for LH
Door opening seals: 20201220 for RH, and 20201221 for LH
G-body Roof Rail Seals (non-T-top): 20154106 or 20737658 for RH, 20154105 or 20737659 for LH (the 658/659 superseded the previous numbers and were considered "softer" by GM per a service bulletin back in the day)
While we're at it, trunk w/s : 20490800 is a cut to length/glue your own (one side has a "nipple" or insert. Don't cut that end). Interesting, the parts book shows 86-88 G47 using p/n 20680006. Don't know the difference. Didn't realize there was one. Hmm.
The aftermarket supplies everything that OEM had. Quality is another story, but you can still get the weatherstrips you need.
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