85 T-Type engine swap

[Street Sweeper22]

I can pick up an 85 t-type engine with 55,000 miles on it. It was in a wreak 20 years ago and hasn’t ran since. I would love to put it and a 200r4 in my 84 regal. What do you guys think that motor is worth and how much would it take to get 300hp out of it? Here is my Buick. I have a aluminum radiator with dual fans and a 8.5 with spohn upper and lower control arms. Everything else is stock. Thank you in advance

 

[ck80]

Well, having sat for 20 years I'd expect to do a timing set and regasket/seal it.

To get your HP out of it you're best off stripping it to a long block, drilling and tapping an oil return on the passenger side top front face of block, and switching to an 86/87 intercooled lc2 top end setup.

Back in the day hot air ttype motors were challenging to go particularly fast with. What aftermarket there was is even worse off now.

It's not worthless, but it's worth more as parts than a running engine. I'd say 500-700 is fair. Maybe 1000 if you get a complete uncut wiring harness, ecm, the intake and valve covers are nice and not pitted/chalky, and you get the air box (not rusty), maf, etc.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

Well, having sat for 20 years I'd expect to do a timing set and regasket/seal it.

To get your HP out of it you're best off stripping it to a long block, drilling and tapping an oil return on the passenger side top front face of block, and switching to an 86/87 intercooled lc2 top end setup.

Back in the day hot air ttype motors were challenging to go particularly fast with. What aftermarket there was is even worse off now.

It's not worthless, but it's worth more as parts than a running engine. I'd say 500-700 is fair. Maybe 1000 if you get a complete uncut wiring harness, ecm, the intake and valve covers are nice and not pitted/chalky, and you get the air box (not rusty), maf, etc.

it looks pretty complete and he said I could have the computer and everything. Do you know if all t-types came with a 200r4?

 

[ck80]

it looks pretty complete and he said I could have the computer and everything. Do you know if all t-types came with a 200r4?

They did. 1983 was the only carbed "ttype" (others were sport coupes by name) and also the first year of the 2004r. The 87 turbo t was also 2004r of course, as were all grand nationals except the 1982.

The valve bodies differed slightly year to year, an original 85 turbobuick 2004r would have a BQ on the left side of the tag on the trans case.

Generally, any of BRF, BQ, BR, CZF, CRF, KZF, or OZ are the desirable ones representing the turbobuicks, monte ss, 442, and hurst/olds respectively. Any other code means it came from a ho hum base model car.

Also, if he doesn't care what you take, grab the heat shield off the climate control box and the passenger side wheelwell that's notched for the downpipe.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

They did. 1983 was the only carbed "ttype" (others were sport coupes by name) and also the first year of the 2004r. The 87 turbo t was also 2004r of course, as were all grand nationals except the 1982.

The valve bodies differed slightly year to year, an original 85 turbobuick 2004r would have a BQ on the left side of the tag on the trans case.

Generally, any of BRF, BQ, BR, CZF, CRF, KZF, or OZ are the desirable ones representing the turbobuicks, monte ss, 442, and hurst/olds respectively. Any other code means it came from a ho hum base model car.

Also, if he doesn't care what you take, grab the heat shield off the climate control box and the passenger side wheelwell that's notched for the downpipe.

He thinks the transmission is a 3 speed so I think I will play dumb and just grab It. He didn’t know that rear end was a 8.5 and I picked up complete with sway bar and drive shaft for $500. I think I can get the engine and transmission for 1000 bucks. I think it’s a good deal because of the milage.

 

[ck80]

He thinks the transmission is a 3 speed so I think I will play dumb and just grab It. He didn’t know that rear end was a 8.5 and I picked up complete with sway bar and drive shaft for $500. I think I can get the engine and transmission for 1000 bucks. I think it’s a good deal because of the milage.

Guys did swap in 3spd units back in the day for drag racing... but I don't recall that many doing it on any hot air cars. When they did it was usually for a th400 which isn't without value in a BOP casing either. But, the tag on the side of the case will tell all, as will the trans oil pan.

I will caution you, buy the buick factory shop manual set (multiple big blue 4" thick binders) because not many guys bother with the early cars so help will be hard to find. They didn't build a ton of them comparatively, and when you add the wrecks, part outs, and conversions there's even less. Those of us who used to bother with them have forgotten plenty from time so troubleshooting you'll want the gm books to help with.

Also, if you somehow planned to use the factory turvo gauge cluster you're going to want the dash wiring harness. Otherwise just add better axillary a pillar or console pod aftermarket gauges, or better yet, run a scan tool while driving.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

Guys did swap in 3spd units back in the day for drag racing... but I don't recall that many doing it on any hot air cars. When they did it was usually for a th400 which isn't without value in a BOP casing either. But, the tag on the side of the case will tell all, as will the trans oil pan.

I will caution you, buy the buick factory shop manual set (multiple big blue 4" thick binders) because not many guys bother with the early cars so help will be hard to find. They didn't build a ton of them comparatively, and when you add the wrecks, part outs, and conversions there's even less. Those of us who used to bother with them have forgotten plenty from time so troubleshooting you'll want the gm books to help with.

Also, if you somehow planned to use the factory turvo gauge cluster you're going to want the dash wiring harness. Otherwise just add better axillary a pillar or console pod aftermarket gauges, or better yet, run a scan tool while driving.

Thank you, I appreciate your help

 

[motorheadmike]

On so many words. Get the whole car. LOL.

I would strongly recommend any modifications will need a MODERN ECM. The chip scene is racketeering. If you don't have full control, don't bother.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

On so many words. Get the whole car. LOL.

I would strongly recommend any modifications will need a MODERN ECM. The chip scene is racketeering. If you don't have full control, don't bother.

It was t-boned on the driver’s side A pillar and the frame is trashed. So the chip scene is dishonest and fraudulent? My thinking is that I can double my horsepower and drivability by doing a easy engine and transmission swap for under 1500 bucks that’s gotta be a win.

 

[ck80]

It was t-boned on the driver’s side A pillar and the frame is trashed. So the chip scene is dishonest and fraudulent? My thinking is that I can double my horsepower and drivability by doing a easy engine and transmission swap for under 1500 bucks that’s gotta be a win.

You also need to upgrade the fuel line to a larger diameter, install a baffled gas tank, put a fuel filter inline (can install inside the rear frame rail) and electric fuel pump. If you do factory intank style it'll need a harness, recommend a hot wire kit.