BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[motorheadmike]

Saw Holdener thew a n* stsv blower on a 4.8 and made 600 on 11ish psi. The gt500 m122 I run and the stsv blower run the same rotors I believe.

I have 10 psi on my setup with the 2.75" pulley where he has 11 on a 4.8 with a 3" pulley. I have my 2.55" pulley sitting on the shelf I haven't run due to chassis (rear end) issues we're all aware of here....

I have 70 cubes on top of his test.

It's a bit apple to oranges but he ran 23 degrees of timing on E85, and I think I'm at 16 before I 'naded my diff last fall.

If I have 70 cubes and 7 degrees roughly on the table, I might be tapping on the door to 700hp. Almost a bit freightening....

I know 'if wishes were fishes' but damn, those are some stellar results. +30hp on corn without timing adjustment.

I've been eyeing those blowers for a while, and been watching his videos. Other than the packaging advantages of the blower, it's ceiling doesn't justify the total cost involved of using this blower... unless you already have the talent to DIY a blower base.

122 is pretty small for anything over 4.6L. Hell the 1.9L LSA blowers are pretty small for a 6.2L. This is where basic centrifugals make more sense as their airflow and charge temps are exponentially more favourable.

Richard is demonstrating what it can do, not what it will do. And that's what misleads a lot of people into disappointing results. His results aren't his process. Pulleys will make for interesting results.

Fortunately you know what you are doing.

I am now going to restrain myself from adding more timing to the TBSS.

 

[81cutlass]

I've been eyeing those blowers for a while, and been watching his videos. Other than the packaging advantages of the blower, it's ceiling doesn't justify the total cost involved of using this blower... unless you already have the talent to DIY a blower base.

122 is pretty small for anything over 4.6L. Hell the 1.9L LSA blowers are pretty small for a 6.2L. This is where basic centrifugals make more sense as their airflow and charge temps are exponentially more favourable.

Richard is demonstrating what it can do, not what it will do. And that's what misleads a lot of people into disappointing results. His results aren't his process. Pulleys will make for interesting results.

Fortunately you know what you are doing.

I am now going to restrain myself from adding more timing to the TBSS.

Absolutely, I think those adapter plates are north of $1500, ontop of the ~$1000 blower and all the assorted fittings, belts, and other parts to make it work mean you are north of $3000 for good but definitely power with a ceiling. For $3k you can build a killer turbo setup and have a lot more headroom. Unless you have packaging concerns or just want to do it for fun or get a deal on stuff it's arguably not worth building the setup.

I wouldn't have gone with this blower if it wasn't $200 and I found a lower and upper manifold tub for $150. I could have gone S475, t400 and 9" and been deep 10's 3 years ago but I wouldn't have learned anything new.

I commented on the youtube vid (selfishly) for him to pulley it down and throw it on a 6.0 just to give another datapoint for apples to oranges boost and timing conversion.

 

[81cutlass]

One of the guys who usually goes to drag weekend but didn't have their car ready this year (and hauled my junk back home when it broke) put a video together.

You can see I make it out about 30ft, and the diff lets go.

🙄

 

[81cutlass]

Instrumentation and interior update #43.7

Spring is on the way of showing up much earlier than I anticipated. All the snow is gone and we got a 3/4" rain storm today so the roads are salt free and there is no forecast for snow or rain in the 10 day so fingers crossed it stays that way and it's fun car season again.

I need to get my aftercooler temp project wrapped up and figure out my high speed fans and I'm ready to hit the road again.

I'd like to get my rear lowering springs and the clutch delay solenoid valve installed but they aren't preventing me from doing anything so that can kinda wait.

Got started tonight trying to get my radio display working again. I saw a video where the guy found a bad solder joint in the ribbon which caused the clock and radio station to not display, I pulled the gauge trim panel and pulled the radio hoping to find a similar issue which I did not, so I think this radio is officially dead and I need to find a different one.

I salvaged the night by wrapping up my switch panel. I don't have rear defog or remote passenger mirror so this panel is blank and perfect home for some switches. I found these nice 2 position switches at the weird electronics surplus store and got them installed.

I'll get them wired in next up. First is temp sensor input switch, second is force both fans on high, third is clutch solenoid delay disable I believe.

 

[motorheadmike]

Nice switch panel! Great minds think alike:

1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon - G-T-faux (stuck with it, and can't shake it... like a bad case of herpes)

Hahahaha....be careful out there. :lol:

gbodyforum.com

 

[81cutlass]

This nice weather has got my motivation going again.

Soldered my aftercooler temp sensor wiring together and put my dash back together.

Did some reading & hptuners work to get my 2 speed fans working.

Fired up the lathe and drilled a 3/8 to 1/4" NPT adapter out to fit my coolant temp sensor for post heat exchanger

Bought a SBC extended waterpump hose barb and tapped the side to fit the adapter fitting. There wasn't enough room to directly tap the 3/8" NPT in so it looks a bit ugly but thats fine.

 

[81cutlass]

Got my 5401 rear springs in. It's exactly where I wanted it, about 1" drop from where it was with the stock f41 rears. With a 275 drag radial it should fill the fender in nicely and allow it to not bottom out when I load it with gear. They might settle 1/4-1/2" also.

Front is at 26.5" so it's a nice slight forward slope. I'm thinking of getting a 3/8" spacer on the rear also since the wheels tuck in a bit more than I really want.

Honestly it's like these springs are just 1" shorter than the stock ones free height and that translates to the drop under load.

Oh and I fixed up my last under hood wiring and fired it up and let it idle a bit. It's forecast to snow/rain Monday so depending on how the DOT decides to put salt down I might be back on the road Wednesday.

I still need to get the clutch delay valve installed but otherwise I got my winter mods list complete. I haven't decided if I want bias ply slicks or radials on my 15x10 rears and might see how the car reacts with the delay valve on radials before I make that switch.

I also have a set of old comp eng adjustable shocks for the front so I might throw my skinnies in the front, swap shocks to tighten down the front, disconnect the front bar and head to the track with my radials and the valve and see if I can get the damn thing to launch for once.

I've got a solid month before anything around me is open anyways.

 

[Supercharged111]

What's the rate on those?

 

[Northernregal]

Ya, more info please.

Looks good. 👍

 

[64nailhead]

What's the rate on those?

1985 442 lowering rear height

Bah so many options. Do you want me to jump into the Matrix springs I used in the wagon?

gbodyforum.com

On page 3, Mac from SSM supplies specs on 5401 springs. They dropped my car over an inch - enough that I have to reset the driveline angles - keep on mind my rear is not stock (8.8).

Edit :
I just measured mine after a short bit of driving, and I'm at 27" to the wheel well lip with 215/65R15's. They are about .25" taller than your Jake's 275/40R17. So that adds up. I beleive it will drop once I straighten out the pinion angle.