BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Feb 16, 2009
3,279
113
Western MN
Oh and initial review-

Car sits lower. Shocks that were on it had a bit of separation force (maybe 100lbs?) , These vikings don't and it sits another half an inch lower. Almost too much. I might jack the rear end up a bit with my perches or seriously look at the next spring rate up. It's soft on bumps and boarderline too low now.

Car had kyb gas adjust shocks with 10k on them in good shape. It was a bit floaty.

I set these to 5 compression and 7 rebound which is half way between comfort and handling recommend setting and roughly where the under 600hp drag recommended setting is. It's twice, if not more, stiff as the kyb's. These have 19 settings and I'm 1/3 the way there so I'd estimate a kyb is in the 2 click range.
IMG_20210505_222954.jpg
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Feb 16, 2009
3,279
113
Western MN
Isn't Brainerd a road course too? Just saying. . .

Yes, but I'm far from being able to put the woah on with this car as I blow 160mph down the back straight lol. I have 4th gen front brakes and blazer rear disks to make it semi safe with power I have.

However the aussie hosted Power cruise US is at Brainard this summer. I have been told the roll racing and cruising on the track is pretty fun so I might go and do that.
 

Supercharged111

Royal Smart Person
Oct 25, 2019
2,170
113
Colorado Springs, CO
Yes, but I'm far from being able to put the woah on with this car as I blow 160mph down the back straight lol. I have 4th gen front brakes and blazer rear disks to make it semi safe with power I have.

However the aussie hosted Power cruise US is at Brainard this summer. I have been told the roll racing and cruising on the track is pretty fun so I might go and do that.

If you're gonna go that route just get good pads and fluid. They're good for 3 laps or so before it all goes south.
 

motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
7,083
113
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Oh and initial review-

Car sits lower. Shocks that were on it had a bit of separation force (maybe 100lbs?) , These vikings don't and it sits another half an inch lower. Almost too much. I might jack the rear end up a bit with my perches or seriously look at the next spring rate up. It's soft on bumps and boarderline too low now.

Car had kyb gas adjust shocks with 10k on them in good shape. It was a bit floaty.

I set these to 5 compression and 7 rebound which is half way between comfort and handling recommend setting and roughly where the under 600hp drag recommended setting is. It's twice, if not more, stiff as the kyb's. These have 19 settings and I'm 1/3 the way there so I'd estimate a kyb is in the 2 click range.
View attachment 174693

Those autocross settings are super aggressive. Might as well weld the suspension solid.
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Feb 16, 2009
3,279
113
Western MN
If you're gonna go that route just get good pads and fluid. They're good for 3 laps or so before it all goes south.

What pads did you run on the crash-maro (sorry for that dig) before you put the new stuff on? The pads I have on my ls1 calipers came with the $25 salvage yard calipers I bought when I did the swap and I reused them since they looked good. I'd like to swap them but not sure what's worth using.


Oh and I got down the rabbit hole of springs. The 3 good lowering moog options are 5401, 5409, and 5413. I think all A body springs.

I put the 5401's in last month and they were perfect with the KYB shocks that have about 100 lbs of force each that is trying to push the body up. With these viking shocks that force doesn't exist and the car lowered another 1/2". Its now 26" to the fender lip front and rear with a 1/3 tank of gas, skinny spare and tool box. 8.75" install height on the spring. The car didn't bottom out with the stock F41 springs before I dropped it the 1.5" but it does all the time now. With a full tank of gas and my normal spare and a jack the back of the car is going to go way under 25.5" and be like sub 2" to the bump stops.

I ordered the last set of 5409's off fleabay in an effort to raise the car. I do have jack screws under my spring perches, but am wanting to reserve them until I load the trunk full of crap for drag weeks. If its bottoming out as is its still going to bottom out if I jack the thing to the ride height I want.

My math says the 5409's and 5413's should get the car to 26.5-26.75 to the fender lip on the rear which is where I want it. I woulda went 5413 but they were out of stock everywhere for a reasonable price.

Rockauto, summit, amazon, and ebay are out of all of them. Not sure if the part numbers are changing or the warehouse pandemic has hit moog also. I normally would have waited to buy these until I can confirm cranking the jack screws up doesn't solve the problem, but one of these sets is going to end up in my Cutlass this fall when I get to that engine swap and I'm not sure when anything is going to get back in stock.

1620339589587.png
 

Supercharged111

Royal Smart Person
Oct 25, 2019
2,170
113
Colorado Springs, CO
What pads did you run on the crash-maro (sorry for that dig) before you put the new stuff on? The pads I have on my ls1 calipers came with the $25 salvage yard calipers I bought when I did the swap and I reused them since they looked good. I'd like to swap them but not sure what's worth using.


Oh and I got down the rabbit hole of springs. The 3 good lowering moog options are 5401, 5409, and 5413. I think all A body springs.

I put the 5401's in last month and they were perfect with the KYB shocks that have about 100 lbs of force each that is trying to push the body up. With these viking shocks that force doesn't exist and the car lowered another 1/2". Its now 26" to the fender lip front and rear with a 1/3 tank of gas, skinny spare and tool box. 8.75" install height on the spring. The car didn't bottom out with the stock F41 springs before I dropped it the 1.5" but it does all the time now. With a full tank of gas and my normal spare and a jack the back of the car is going to go way under 25.5" and be like sub 2" to the bump stops.

I ordered the last set of 5409's off fleabay in an effort to raise the car. I do have jack screws under my spring perches, but am wanting to reserve them until I load the trunk full of crap for drag weeks. If its bottoming out as is its still going to bottom out if I jack the thing to the ride height I want.

My math says the 5409's and 5413's should get the car to 26.5-26.75 to the fender lip on the rear which is where I want it. I woulda went 5413 but they were out of stock everywhere for a reasonable price.

Rockauto, summit, amazon, and ebay are out of all of them. Not sure if the part numbers are changing or the warehouse pandemic has hit moog also. I normally would have waited to buy these until I can confirm cranking the jack screws up doesn't solve the problem, but one of these sets is going to end up in my Cutlass this fall when I get to that engine swap and I'm not sure when anything is going to get back in stock.

View attachment 174752

Crashmaro LOL. It's not like I didn't earn that. I've run Raybestos ST43 and ST45 for a long time (they feel about the same). They do fade on me though, I've finally been able to confirm that with the Stoptech rotors and calipers. I think the way ahead may be Stoptech pads, but I need to do more research. The Raybestos will lock the fronts at 120mph and flat spot past the cords. Ask me how I know. . . They're cheap, they last forever, and they don't kill rotors and rims like Hawk pads.
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Supporting Member
Dec 26, 2013
13,047
113
A pair of airbags is only $100, and you could put them on a dump valve to get crazy. Or, leave them individual for preload capabilities. Or, science it out to an onboard compressor with individual controls.....
 

Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
2,488
113
Central NY
A pair of airbags is only $100, and you could put them on a dump valve to get crazy. Or, leave them individual for preload capabilities. Or, science it out to an onboard compressor with individual controls.....
And they could be activated by say, I don't know, maybe the clutch switch... 😉

Haha, sorry just kidding! Looking good and I'm curious to see how much the shocks help your wheel hop issue.
 

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Supporting Member
Apr 3, 2015
6,763
113
Spring, Texas
The EBC yellow stuff are impressive. Ask Jim. You just won't get more than 15-20k miles out of them.
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Supporting Member
Dec 1, 2014
2,928
113
Upstate NY
The EBC yellow stuff are impressive. Ask Jim. You just won't get more than 15-20k miles out of them.
I was just speaking to the local guy that recommended them. They are absolutely stupid - it takes less than a 1/2 second hard on the pedal for them to heat up and once they are hot it's ike a magnet is puling you backwards. And this is with a stock rotor. I can only imagine how they would stop with a C5/C6 rotor.

If I'm hard on the brakes and keep heat in them, then it's really nuts. FWIW, if the rotors last 5000 miles then I'll be happy. I have determined they are like stock brakes on the line lock after doing a burnout, but I bought them to stop my hemorrhoid building moments at the big end of the track. I haven't pushed them to 140 yet, but I have been over 125 ad stood on them - again, they have an absolutely silly amount of stopping power.
 

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