BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
113
Western MN
And the rear is back in! Was able to reuse my factory shim sizes. Kinda proves the shim comes from the gear set not the carrier.

Put new shocks in, just kybs and it wheel hops pretty bad. I need some new control arms and adjustable uppers.

Going to storage soon and then it's turbo wagon time
 

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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
113
Western MN
Decided the air needed some cooling and bought the magnuson intercooler bits for the intake. Hopefully it all fits! It was like over a 100 degree F air inlet temp rise racing last fall so it should help a bunch.

Found a used BTR stage 2 blower cam outta an LSA so thats going in too. As if it needed more power haha.
 

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Opie Knievel

Rum Fueled Midnight Mechanic and Moderator
Sep 6, 2010
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Brodhead, Kentucky
Decided the air needed some cooling and bought the magnuson intercooler bits for the intake. Hopefully it all fits! It was like over a 100 degree F air inlet temp rise racing last fall so it should help a bunch.

Found a used BTR stage 2 blower cam outta an LSA so thats going in too. As if it needed more power haha.

Too much is never enough! You can always use more power. Lol.

Cooling the intake charge and getting a cam that matches the engine better should definitely increase horsepower.
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
113
Western MN
Drove the car back home from storage at my friends over winter Friday.

Tore the blower off today and test fit the intercooler. I have to build a few spacers and isolators I don't have but that will be easy enough.

Also pulled the radiator and looked at getting my AC pump to fit. Going to have to cut the stock bracket up a bit and build some additional supports. I am moving the ac pump drive pulley from where it was to the front 6 ribs and going to a 4cyl S10 AC pump since its square and has easy mounting locations.
 

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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
113
Western MN
keep up the good work, any word on that zr2 axle thing for upper arm mounts coming available, im willing to shorten the tubes and axes to do this.

I have a line on a plasma table to rough cut it. I even have a spare plate i made last fall I just have to weld bushings in.

I really need to clone myself. One of me works, does laundry, pays bills, ect. Other me builds cars, goes on vacation, builds car parts.

It's on my massive to do list.
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
113
Western MN
Well on to the AC pump. This might be interesting to people who want AC on their swaps in the stock location. I have seen people put stock truck AC pumps in and they fit without frame notch but its good to give more options.

Since i am changing the AC pump from running off the 4 rib where it was, to the 6 rib on the main drives to make room for my blower drive, I have to move the AC pump roughly 1.25" forward. That is accomplished by some plates to be fabbed later.

I am using a 00 ish s10 compressor. Already is 6 rib and compatible with GM electronics. Funny thing is too- it shares the pattern with the stock LS truck AC pump minus the top rear bolt! I ground off about .9" from the old mount face to the new mount face to account for the one offset mount. IE the other 3 bolts are in the same spot, GM moved that last rearward one up and back, and away from the mount flange that .9" or so on LS. I am going to use the stock 3 bolt pattern and space them forward, and modify the last upper bolt somehow to tie into the block.

Other issue is the VERY close gap between the frame and pump, there is just under 1" between so fittings will be tight. I think 4 seasons has a fitting I need I just need to make sure its the right hose size, i cant remeber if GM uses 8 and 10 or 10 and 12 AC hose line size.

Also, I included pictures of valve cover to AC box clearance and PS pump to stock f41 steering box clearance. I have a hole in the AC box yes but that was from me dropping the engine in the bay a bit too hot. Just needs to be riveted back in.

What I am getting at, is if you buy LS swap mounts and your stock truck pickup SUV whatever power steering pump pulley hits the steering box and you have F41, you don't need smaller pulley, you need frame mounts not designed by morons who moved the engine way out of where it should be. I built my own mounts with a sharpie, band saw and a tape measure and T square. I am determined many companies making mounts have never heard of the statement "put the important stuff where it matters and fill in the gaps"

Anyways!

Below- 99-07 truck AC
60-80142-RK-Kit-Map1.jpg


00ish blazer AC comp
9d4a7eaeea65e29d04a5d13b97f24dab.png
 

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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
113
Western MN
So yeah I realized this thing is slowly turning into an S10.

Already has a ZR2 S10 rear, clutch pedal, and now an AC pump.

Getting a 4x4 00ish 2dr s10 blazer rear swaybar, which is 25mm (same as the helwig one) and the 00ish 2wd front brakes later on. Also an F body since im getting the 36mm 3rd gen swaybar, has an LT1 t56 f body trans, 4th gen wheels and other fun stuff.

The FGS body?
 
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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
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Don't know if you caught my build thread, but 4th gen F-body evap cores will fit in a G heaterbox with a spacer and some extra foam. That way you can use the new style o-ring fittings.
 

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