BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[81cutlass]

Yeah I'm probably going with the Honeywell. The one Mike shared is good but I already wired in a GT150 Delphi connector and the Honeywell is a direct swap. I'm lazy lol.

I have like 3/4 tank of fuel I need to use up before I drop the tank and add the second pump but I'm the mean time I thought I'd get started on my fittings.

I need to add a second -6 exit into the pump hanger and add a passthrough for some heavier gauge wire.

Fired up the lathe and made some orb nuts. Essentially I just drill a 9/16 hole in the fuel pump hanger and drop the bulkhead 90 in. Slide an o oring in and tighten the nut. The nut has the female orb port machined in and the o ring seals to the hanger and the fitting so it should be leak free.

And I started on the wiring. I was going to buy one but again Mike convinced me otherwise and that I have a 'GD lathe' and to make one. I just drilled the bulkhead 90 out to 3/8 and made a slug out of Teflon I had sitting around and made a nut to retain the slug. A dab of epoxy and it should be a good 3 wire passthrough.

I need to buy a roll of 12 gage black wire, I'm out, and then I can drop the tank and work on the second pump installation.

 

[64nailhead]

I’m not a fan of that wiring running through a fitting unless you get it insulated so that vibration won’t get you down the road.

You’ve installed and driven on the rear Vikings, correct? What do you think of them?

 

[motorheadmike]

Yeah I'm probably going with the Honeywell. The one Mike shared is good but I already wired in a GT150 Delphi connector and the Honeywell is a direct swap. I'm lazy lol.

I have like 3/4 tank of fuel I need to use up before I drop the tank and add the second pump but I'm the mean time I thought I'd get started on my fittings.

I need to add a second -6 exit into the pump hanger and add a passthrough for some heavier gauge wire.

Fired up the lathe and made some orb nuts. Essentially I just drill a 9/16 hole in the fuel pump hanger and drop the bulkhead 90 in. Slide an o oring in and tighten the nut. The nut has the female orb port machined in and the o ring seals to the hanger and the fitting so it should be leak free.

View attachment 177771
View attachment 177773
View attachment 177775

And I started on the wiring. I was going to buy one but again Mike convinced me otherwise and that I have a 'GD lathe' and to make one. I just drilled the bulkhead 90 out to 3/8 and made a slug out of Teflon I had sitting around and made a nut to retain the slug. A dab of epoxy and it should be a good 3 wire passthrough.

I need to buy a roll of 12 gage black wire, I'm out, and then I can drop the tank and work on the second pump installation.
View attachment 177778
View attachment 177779

 

[81cutlass]

I’m not a fan of that wiring running through a fitting unless you get it insulated so that vibration won’t get you down the road.

You’ve installed and driven on the rear Vikings, correct? What do you think of them?

I had planned on filling the top elbow with epoxy to prevent the wires from moving, but I can't get the 3rd wire to bend the corner so I need to re-evaluate. I agree I need to do something about vibration and the inside corner in that fitting is sharp. I need something to keep the wires flat to dodge the trunk pan, so I don't know what else to do. Stock fuel sender life yo.

I've got a few hundred miles on the shocks and I like them. I had them set on the tight side for their rec. for street use with the 5401 springs but I went to the 5409's and it's a bit firm now. I need to take a click out and see how it improves.

I would say they are harsh if you set them to the drag or autocross settings and drive them on the street.

 

[Supercharged111]

Why not a straight pass through fitting? They sell mandrel bent 90 degree fittings that would screw onto that.

 

[64nailhead]

I've got a few hundred miles on the shocks and I like them. I had them set on the tight side for their rec. for street use with the 5401 springs but I went to the 5409's and it's a bit firm now. I need to take a click out and see how it improves.

I would say they are harsh if you set them to the drag or autocross settings and drive them on the street.

I set them to the recommended street setting, and yikes, is it a firm ride. Not too firm at all, but no more wavy ocean liner. I have posted videos somewhere of my suspension bounce, there is none now.

 

[81cutlass]

Why not a straight pass through fitting? They sell mandrel bent 90 degree fittings that would screw onto that.

A straight through pass through would require me to zip tie (or something) to pull the wiring down so it doesn't rub on the trunk floor. There is like 3/4" between the top of the sender and the bottom of the floor. It's tight! The 90 allows me to keep the top of the wiring low enough.


In other news also I was watching the rocky mountain race week live feed and the dude that has the maroon stick fairlane from the late 60's has been developing the same thing I have with the clutch controller but more electrical vs. my mechanical method.

It looks like he just PWM's a solenoid valve (maybe a servo controlled needle valve?) and he uses the clutch pedal to turn it on/off. Uses a phone app to log time or pressure or something.

 

[fleming442]

I've been brainstorming for ya, and I got nothing. How big of an in-tank wire are you planning? A 9005/6/7 right angle headlight socket.....?

 

[Supercharged111]

I was thinking one of these guys, but I doubt it would clear a 3/4" gap. BFH time?

 

[motorheadmike]

TA straight through pass through would require me to zip tie (or something) to pull the wiring down so it doesn't rub on the trunk floor. There is like 3/4" between the top of the sender and the bottom of the floor. It's tight! The 90 allows me to keep the top of the wiring low enough.


In other news also I was watching the rocky mountain race week live feed and the dude that has the maroon stick fairlane from the late 60's has been developing the same thing I have with the clutch controller but more electrical vs. my mechanical method.

It looks like he just PWM's a solenoid valve (maybe a servo controlled needle valve?) and he uses the clutch pedal to turn it on/off. Uses a phone app to log time or pressure or something.
View attachment 177901

Is there anyway you can make a two-piece fitting that does what you are looking at achieving?