BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!

Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
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Louisville, KY
I have been wanting to post my ride on here for awhile now and, well, here it is. This is my 87 cutlass supreme that I've had for 14 years now....it has been through several transformations over the years going from the olds 307 to a sbc 355...then upgraded to efi about 8 years ago. But when i was planning some suspension upgrades in dec of '10 but brother n law decided to make a rash decision and kick the already rusting qp into a huge hole that the redo began! I hope everybody enjoys and please leave feedback i value the g body opinion!
87 Cutlass supreme, full body off resto including new qp's, roof skin, rockers, and driver side floor. Frame and underbody coated in por15 chassis cote black back in 2011, new prothane body bushings, bmr suspension front & rear. Sbc 355 with custom tuned holley efi stealth ram, 58mm tb, custom intake tubing.....the list goes on and on
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dr78442

G-Body Guru
Mar 15, 2010
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massapequa park NY
Looks great. I love the detail in the engine compartment. Looks like a great project. From one injected cutlass to another best of luck
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
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Louisville, KY
Where did you get the gauge panel?
It's actually a one off....i made it a few years back . I made the template off of my original cluster, then cut a piece of aluminum down and drilled holes for the sport comps....covered it in REAL carbon fiber and took some time doing it! Glad you like it thanks man!
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
6,060
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Louisville, KY
Yeah I love it. Where did you get the carbon fiber? I would like to try something similiar.
I got the carbon fiber from somewhere off ebay years ago....dont recall the source. I know dragon plate sells it. It is fairly thin so its flexible but has 3m adhesive on the back. Here is another pic before cutting the holes.
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
6,060
22,820
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Louisville, KY
Looks great. I love the detail in the engine compartment. Looks like a great project. From one injected cutlass to another best of luck
Thanks man, it has been a pain getting it where i want it....wire hiding, moving the fusebox, filling unnecessary holes, stainless brake lines which are an absolute nightmare!!! It is coming together and i love to see my vision come to life! You ride looks cool too, thanks.
 
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Garrett1982

G-Body Guru
May 18, 2014
582
101
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Uniontown, Pa
Thanks for digging mine too. Stainless brake lines are one of the next things on my list. Any advise on installing them?
I will look into that carbon overlay. I have a 5" monster tach with a shift light so I am gonna to figure how to work that in with my cluster.
 

Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
6,060
22,820
113
Louisville, KY
Thanks for digging mine too. Stainless brake lines are one of the next things on my list. Any advise on installing them?
I will look into that carbon overlay. I have a 5" monster tach with a shift light so I am gonna to figure how to work that in with my cluster.
The stainless lines are really hard to bend, and pretty much impossible to reflare if you have to cut them....i bought a prebent kit from inline tube and had to scrap the master cylinder lines and used braided instead...even with a $400 flare tool i couldnt get the flares right due to s/s lines being so hard....i also ruined 2 brass prop valves and had to go back to a stock unit! In the future i will just use steel lines and clear coat them. My tach n speedo are 3-3/8" cause the 5" was gonna be a pain fiting it right.
 
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Garrett1982

G-Body Guru
May 18, 2014
582
101
28
Uniontown, Pa
The stainless lines are really hard to bend, and pretty much impossible to reflare if you have to cut them....i bought a prebent kit from inline tube and had to scrap the master cylinder lines and used braided instead...even with a $400 flare tool i couldnt get the flares right due to s/s lines being so hard....i also ruined 2 brass prop valves and had to go back to a stock unit! In the future i will just use steel lines and clear coat them. My tach n speedo are 3-3/8" cause the 5" was gonna be a pain fiting it right.
Maybe I should just get the steel lines then since mine will be a fair weather car. I am going to do line lock so I will have to tap into the lines.
As far as fitting the tach in, I was thinking of doing something like this:
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