BUILD THREAD 87 Regal Build

[RegalRegal]

Still getting the hang of posting pics

 

[Northernregal]

This is exciting. I'm in to watch.

 

[RegalRegal]

Next was the rearend. After spending 4 minutes looking at overpriced used ones online, I called Quickperformance and ordered a Ford 9" housing made for a G-body. They are very helpful and knowledgeable. Cost was reasonable and it was shipped quickly.
I ordered bare so I could weld on brake line tabs. I ordered with qp 31 spline axels, drain and fill plugs with jack pad, 1/4" thick axel tubes, adjustable lca brackets, spherical upper bushing, new fab center housing with billet ends and HD tapered bearings. Overall it is a really a nice piece.

 

[RegalRegal]

I used a standard Gm 4 wheel disc brake proportioning valve and stainless brake line from inline. I did add a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve for the rear to help with dialing the pressure in. I had to make the hardline for the rearend an learned that stainless is quite hard to flare without the proper tool. I tried several different flaring tools with no luck until I tried the Eastwood flaring tool. Luckily my neighbor had the tool so I did not have to spend $200 for a few flares. For brakes I went with a cheap deluxe brake kit compatible with my SSM kit.
It comes with 11" Drilled and slotted front rotors, calipers loaded with semi metallic pads and hardware, caliper brackets, disc brake dust shields with anodized finish, Complete bearing and seal set, rubber brake hoses and bolts for $250 off Ebay. I painted those red with Por-15 Red caliper paint. I will upgrade when I get some miles on car. For the rear I went with Wilwood dynalite 4 piston with parking brake because when ordering rear end QP needed to know the style of brake so they could make rearend compatible with brake choice, making upgrades more difficult so I went with the better brake option. I also upgraded to braided stainless instead of the rubber lines.

 

[RegalRegal]

I used Aluminum line clamps instead of the factory clips for a cleaner look.

 

[SS_Malibu]

It's nice seeing the cool things being done to everyone's cars. The thing I like most is the ingenuity to custom something and the tools made to make it happen. Nice use of the engine stands. Clever.
Everything is looking sharp.

 

[RegalRegal]

For steering I wanted to get rid of all of the old components and start fresh. I went with a Borgenson 800 series quick ratio steering box and Proforged centerlink, idler, pitman and inner tie rods. They are really nice and beefy with a 1,000,000 mile warranty (So they say). I also used Umi forged tie rod sleeves and 1.25" swaybar. I have springs in but no shocks. I want to check ride height after everything is back together but ultimately think I am going to go with Coilovers to dial in ride height just have to decide on brand Qa1 or Viking.

 

[RegalRegal]

For the the rear I went with a 9" third member 3:70 Truetrac 31 spline I bought a while back to put in the a Quickperformance housing. I put BMR lowering springs, Viking double adjustable shocks and a Umi shock tower brace. I would like to use the Umi pro touring chassis mounted sway bar but it is more than double the price. While installing my shocks I realized with no weight on chassis my shocks would top out. I decided to install limiter straps to that prevent that. I might just leave them, but not sure. I went with US Mags 18x8 Rambler rims with 225/40 in the front and 245/40 in the rear. I also installed a G-force crossmember.
I have a checklist of things I need to complete on chassis before putting body back on.
1 Fuel lines
2 Braided brake line from caliper to rear-end
3 Front shock or coilovers
4 Rear swaybar
5 Engine/Trans
6 Driveshaft
7 Trans lines

 

[olds307 and 403]

Nice build. I like those wheels. What motor was in the car?

 

[RegalRegal]

Nice build. I like those wheels. What motor was in the car?

Thanks, 3.8 v6