Ac compressor clutch

[Rudy913]

When I’m running my ac and heater
My ac compressor clutch is always spinning should it turn off when I slide it to the heater ?
I can hear a click noise when I slide it and can feel the idle difference
But the clutch is still spinning on both
My guess is that when I got the ac install
The shop didn’t do it proper
If y’all can give me any info on how I can fix it myself

 

[Rudy913]

When I’m running my ac and heater
My ac compressor clutch is always spinning should it turn off when I slide it to the heater ?
I can hear a click noise when I slide it and can feel the idle difference
But the clutch is still spinning on both
My guess is that when I got the ac install
The shop didn’t do it proper
If y’all can give me any info on how I can fix it myself. Also I think I been having timing issues with my car running hot in the summer time I was thinking that both the ac and the heater are both putting a stain on the engine being that the clutch don’t turn off and causing it to run hot

 

[350Regal]

On heater or on defrost cuz every vehicle that I know of runs the AC when you use the defrost even your new vehicles do

 

[pagrunt]

On heater or on defrost cuz every vehicle that I know of runs the AC when you use the defrost even your new vehicles do

On my '14 Silverado it uses the outside temp to kick on the compressor when not in direct A/C mode. Seems like it has to be somewhere in the mid 50's outside for it to kick on.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Are you sure the clutch plate is actually pulled in? Obviously, the belt drive will be going all the time, but the forward plate should only pe pulled in and actually turning the compressor shaft when in A/C or defrost.

If they connected the green wire to a "hot in run"/"ignition on" terminal, the clutch would be engaged all the time. It should be connected to the cycling/pressure switch on the accumulator

 

[Rudy913]

Are you sure the clutch plate is actually pulled in? Obviously, the belt drive will be going all the time, but the forward plate should only pe pulled in and actually turning the compressor shaft when in A/C or defrost.

If they connected the green wire to a "hot in run"/"ignition on" terminal, the clutch would be engaged all the time. It should be connected to the cycling/pressure switch on the accumulator

Yea the plate is on all the time even when heater is on . So I gotta run the wire to the cycling pressure switch instead your saying. I’m going to take more pics of how they have the wires ran . Hopefully that can show y’all more of what I’m dealing with and be an easy fix And hopefully I don’t screw anything up

 

[Rudy913]

Are you sure the clutch plate is actually pulled in? Obviously, the belt drive will be going all the time, but the forward plate should only pe pulled in and actually turning the compressor shaft when in A/C or defrost.

If they connected the green wire to a "hot in run"/"ignition on" terminal, the clutch would be engaged all the time. It should be connected to the cycling/pressure switch on the accumulator

Can I upload videos on here? I’m curious

 

[Rudy913]

On heater or on defrost cuz every vehicle that I know of runs the AC when you use the defrost even your new vehicles do

Both . And the plate is still spinning

 

[oldsmobile joe]

Don't confuse heat with ac operation. Your compressor is designed to turn on when the mode selector in placed in "max", "bi-level", and "defrost" position. Ac compressor operation should not happen in "vent" or "floor" position.

The temperature position only affects the length of time the compressor runs (cycles).

 

[69hurstolds]

Does the compressor EVER cycle on and off?

Your compressor should only engage in 4 positions:

Max
Norm
Bi-Level
Defrost (running the compressor in this mode decreases relative humidity in the air so you're not just pumping moist air on a cold windshield, which obviously isn't a great idea)

And then only engage when there's sufficient refrigerant charge in the system. Generally, the cycling switch on the accumulator is what controls the system pressure by cycling the compressor. Typically on at ~48 psi, off at ~25 psi. This protects the system from freezeup. Most of these switches can be range adjusted slightly, depending on manufacturer of the switch. There could be other control systems that temporarily cut out the compressor in certain conditions, such as full throttle cut out, high effort power steering, temperature/pressure cutouts, etc. Not familiar with Monte Carlo sub-systems that well.

When on MAX, the temperature control is basically useless as the coolant cutoff valve is controlled by the main vacuum system. Otherwise, the two-port valve lines up to apply vacuum when the temp control lever is in full cold position only. Anything off full cold will release vacuum to the coolant cutoff valve except when in MAX.


Below is compressor wiring for 1985 Oldsmobile. Your Monte should be SIMILAR, but may be different in places as well. Again, not familiar with the Monte setups. If anyone has a wiring diagram that can help drill down, be my guest. Note the positions of the mode selector switch on the first picture. This is when your compressor should be free to engage.

VIN Y, 9, and A.

You can see the switch on the back side of this accumulator with the black wiring plug going to it (switch itself is silver aluminum ring and white plastic here):