AC in Vegas only blowing 62 degrees

Discussion in 'Cooling / Heating / AC' started by 20Grand, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. 20Grand

    20Grand Apprentice

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    During the day I’m currently getting right above 60 degrees after my ac rebuild. I’m currently running the sanden 508 and a new, but stock, condenser on a 5.3 ls. I’ve read that the Camaro condenser may be the way to go. Anyone out there in the heat getting 50 or lower during the day?

    Also, any fan upgrades to get more flow through the vents? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Ribbedroof

    Ribbedroof Royal Smart Person

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    Converted to R134a? If so, you would get better results from a parallel-flow condensor.

    Better airflow involves making sure there are no leaks in the ducting, and a common spot for leakage is where the evaporator core lines exit the HVAC case under the hood. Also ensure the hot water shutoff valve is functioning, and the blend door is fully closing. I took the opportunity on a previous build to remove all the ducting (was replacing dash), clean it all well, added new foam to all the joints, and cleaned the HVAC case. Wife said it got too cold on the highway, I was fine with it, my only gripe was that the blower didn't spin as fast at idle as it did going down the road.

    As an aside, it has been said that about the best you can hope for is a 50 degree reduction in heat with auto A/C...Another thing to consider is that in most climates, a portion of the cooling effect is the reduction of humidity. I would assume the air in Vegas is relatively dry, so that would perhaps lessen the perceived effectiveness of the system. I would imagine Vegas is getting pretty toasty by now...it's been 90+ here in "moderate" Oklahoma
     
    #2 Ribbedroof, Jun 9, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2018
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  3. motorheadmike

    motorheadmike Royal Smart Person

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    I'd blame the Vegas Golden Knights for going ice cold in the Stanley Cup Final. Maybe you should ask them how to go from hot to cold so quickly.
     
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  4. Texas82GP

    Texas82GP Comic Book Super Hero
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    I would think your new aftermarket replacement condenser is parallel flow. Most are from what I've seen. Take a look...
    Screenshot_20180531-133139.png

    See how all the tubes tie together on the side. This is parallel flow. Here is a link with some good information...
    http://www.techchoiceparts.com/condenser
    Did you charge the system? How did the pressures look and at what temperature? Did it sweat back to the compressor? What oriface tube did you use? Was the evaporator replaced or did you flush the original one? Do you think the cockpit is tight? Just some ideas to add to the good suggestions Brian (Ribbedroof) gave above. Is there a heater control valve on one of the heater hoses? Hope this helps some.
     
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  5. fleming442

    fleming442 Comic Book Super Hero

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    CAPS,CAPS,CAPS!!!!
     
  6. Ribbedroof

    Ribbedroof Royal Smart Person

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  7. 20Grand

    20Grand Apprentice

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    I guess I didn’t realize that I do have a parallel flow condenser. One thing the shop did point out, is that I did leave the caps off of the accumulator for quite a while. He said there’s a sponge or something in there that soaks up moisture and could limit cooling. Also, after checking, there’s air coming from where the heater hoses come out. That area is not sealed. I also had to remove the glove box before we left because there’s cool air leaking from the fire wall. The AC is cool/cold during the day and at night gets down to less than 50 coming from the vents. I hurst feel like there should be a way to get it as cold as any new car considering everything’s new.
     
  8. Ribbedroof

    Ribbedroof Royal Smart Person

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    There are a few things to consider when comparing to new cars/systems.

    Ours are a reheat system, the air goes through the evap, then the heater core. This is why you need to ensure the water shutoff is present and working.

    If the evap core was not removed and acid washed, there will be dirt/corrosion on it, and will effect it's ability to transfer the "cool" to the inlet air.

    IMO, newer systems are better engineered for airflow, and of course, everything is 100%. The leaks in airflow really hurt air delivery into the cabin. A new accumulator/dryer wouldn't be a bad idea, especially if the system was left open for more than a few hours.

    Also want to ensure your engine cooling fan is pulling enough air to properly transfer the heat out of the condensor, electrics are really good at this, especially when wired to run when A/C is active.

    How was the charge amount of refrigerant calculated/how much did they use?
     
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  9. 20Grand

    20Grand Apprentice

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    I also have a BUNCH of air coming from the vented section by the firewall.
     

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  10. fleming442

    fleming442 Comic Book Super Hero

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    A little food for thought: my car has a complete system from a 2002 Firebird, reman compressor, new drier ,coil, and condenser, 134 gas, and I got this idling in the driveway at 70 humid degrees.
    20180610_133142.jpg
    I suppose something isn't quite right... it's doing something as I got stuff out of the condensate drain
    20180610_150446.jpg
     
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