Adding boost

Status
Not open for further replies.

RideOrDieRegal84

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 9, 2020
14
0
1
USA
So as mentioned in a previous post, i mentioned that i have a chevy 355 with a mild build, a tci th350 and a 4.10 eaton posi unti in a 7.5. This is a car that i drive around on weekends and am trying to keep on a budget but still be enough to keep up with other builds around my area. Im looking to boost the engine but im not sure what would be most ideal. What would be most practical and what changes to my current block would i have to make? Compression is around 10:1 and i have a 570 lift cam. Anything helps! Thank you.
 

blk7gxn

Royal Smart Person
Feb 7, 2019
1,390
1,886
113
First thing I would personally do, is replace that 7.5 with a 8,5.
 

ck80

Moderator
Moderator
Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2014
5,744
9,120
113
Weekend driver only status helps.

At 10:1 CR you're going to have knock issues on basic pump gas. So plan on an alky meth injection setup too, and running at a minimum only 93+ octane while watching your detonation.

Probably also maxing out in the 8psi boost range. Maybe pushing towards 10? But you'll be needing a good tune and get the timing right, doubt youd be able to push higher than that.

Trans might need a rebuild/upgrade depending what it's built for, and that 7.5 isn't great.

When you did the 355 build was the block tanked/fluxed? Is it 2 or 4 bolt main? What internals? Safe to assume you're carbuerated? Carb turbo can work, but, tuning and management on a boosted motor is much easier fuel injected, especially with the high CR really dictating an alky setup and related issues.
 

RideOrDieRegal84

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 9, 2020
14
0
1
USA
Weekend driver only status helps.

At 10:1 CR you're going to have knock issues on basic pump gas. So plan on an alky meth injection setup too, and running at a minimum only 93+ octane while watching your detonation.

Probably also maxing out in the 8psi boost range. Maybe pushing towards 10? But you'll be needing a good tune and get the timing right, doubt youd be able to push higher than that.

Trans might need a rebuild/upgrade depending what it's built for, and that 7.5 isn't great.

When you did the 355 build was the block tanked/fluxed? Is it 2 or 4 bolt main? What internals? Safe to assume you're carbuerated? Carb turbo can work, but, tuning and management on a boosted motor is much easier fuel injected, especially with the high CR really dictating an alky setup and related issues.
This car is my first ever build and i don't know all the ins and outs of my engine. I bought the engine already built and i know it has flat top pistons and the crank has been turned but im not all sure what i have i side the engine exactly. I just got my trans rebuilt at a trans shop about a year ago and the trans shop rated it to 550 - 6ish. Again im not 110% sure what i have and im not in the position to replace the 7.5 as i just put that posi unit in there and i am on a small budget. Im looking to learn and try new things if you have any suggestions on anything i can do without changing too much. Thank you
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,611
12,670
113
Michigan
Well you can always run 100 - 125 shot of nitrous, probably the cheapest option but obviously it's also not a full-time power adder
 

ck80

Moderator
Moderator
Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2014
5,744
9,120
113
This car is my first ever build and i don't know all the ins and outs of my engine. I bought the engine already built and i know it has flat top pistons and the crank has been turned but im not all sure what i have i side the engine exactly. I just got my trans rebuilt at a trans shop about a year ago and the trans shop rated it to 550 - 6ish. Again im not 110% sure what i have and im not in the position to replace the 7.5 as i just put that posi unit in there and i am on a small budget. Im looking to learn and try new things if you have any suggestions on anything i can do without changing too much. Thank you
If at all possible try to get a spec sheet from whoever you got the engine from on what went into the build. Same on the transmission.

To be honest, the old adage applies now as much as ever: "You can go fast, cheap, and reliable. Pick any two."

This isn't being a smart alec, but you shouldn't mod anything you can't afford to break. A lot depends on your goals and all those unknowns about what you're starting with.

Let's assume the trans might hold 550hp, pending paperwork to back that up. Safety factor says push you build to 500 if you want it to last a while.

At 500hp that 7 5 rear will die. Not a question of if, just it's when. It doesn't sound like you upgraded the axles, installed c-clip eliminators, support cover, etc... or maybe you did. But a 7.5 with just 4.10s added won't handle much power driven aggressively for long. Axles will break as most likely failure point.

The cheapest and possibly longest lasting power adder would be the nitrous shot 565bbchevy recommended. Benefits beyond cost are it only stresses the trans and rear on demand, and the rest of the time it's a lower level of force being applied there.

Really you need to know what you've got to start with, which means bugging the shops that built the engine and trans
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor