Adjusting rear control arms?

[melloelky]

I brought my GP to a corvette specialist for a wheel alignment. I told the owner what settings I want and when the spec sheet printed out the caster setting was greyed out, the owner argued with me that my car has no caster adjustments...

I love people that are "specialists".
I rode the short bus to school too you don't see me bragging about...

 

[81cutlass]

This is the exact issue I was having, the lowers didn’t move the axle left or right, just put angle into it. That’s where I was getting confused, not to mention I was just going by eye via hacked off quad shock mounts.

Mount the wheels and measure from the inside of the wheel to the frame. The shock mounts mean nothing in the end.

Set the lower adjustable arms to the same length and adjust as needed to get the rear end center line parallel to the front hub center line. Kinda optional.

Set the upper arms to the same length as stock. Turn them as a pair to set pinion angle.

Measure distance from rim to frame, turn arm CW/CCW as a pair 1/4 turn each or so to dial in the left/right shift. Recheck pinion angle and adjust as needed.

 

[superbon54]

I am getting pretty close to buying myself a set of caster/camber alignment plates and doing all my alignments myself. Toe and go is all you get from my experience.

I swapped lower control arms and upper ball joints on my daily last month. I put it together and the camber was real off so I got it sorta close. I had the shop down the road align it and all it said was 'adjusted toe' in the notes. Literally my eyeball camber adjustment was good enough for them. For the $80 I paid them, I should have just grabbed my tape measure and did the toe myself.

I bought myself a kit with the plates a few years ago and have done a handful of my own alignments. The first ones went a little slow, but now I can knock one out in <45 minutes as long as everything isn’t rotted together.

It’s amazing how far off from the target some factory vehicles are. I also used to balk at the whole “align your car when you change your struts” type philosophy, but I’ve done some parts changes that have had a significant effect on alignment.

 

[pontiacgp]

I am getting pretty close to buying myself a set of caster/camber alignment plates and doing all my alignments myself. Toe and go is all you get from my experience.

I swapped lower control arms and upper ball joints on my daily last month. I put it together and the camber was real off so I got it sorta close. I had the shop down the road align it and all it said was 'adjusted toe' in the notes. Literally my eyeball camber adjustment was good enough for them. For the $80 I paid them, I should have just grabbed my tape measure and did the toe myself.

when you do the alignment it's easier if you remove the bolts for the lower end of the shocks so you can bounce the car after making any adjustment so you get an accurate reading. Also string your back wheels to the front wheels to make sure your toe is even on both sides

 

[fleming442]

when you do the alignment it's easier if you remove the bolts for the lower end of the shocks so you can bounce the car after making any adjustment so you get an accurate reading. Also string your back wheels to the front wheels to make sure your toe is even on both sides

DAMMIT! You said bouncing doesn't do anything; you have to roll it.

WILL YOU MAKE UP MY MIND?!

 

[pontiacgp]

DAMMIT! You said bouncing doesn't do anything; you have to roll it.

WILL YOU MAKE UP MY MIND?!

different subject, if he lifts the car off the ground then yes he has to roll it. If you are making a toe or other alignment change bouncing will release any tension the tire is causing. If you have plates that allow the tires to move then now need for bouncing...... without the lower shock attached it is easier to bounce the car a little, there is no need to go crazy....


aka Willis

 

[pontiacgp]

I love people that are "specialists".
I rode the short bus to school too you don't see me bragging about...

were you on the roof or did they let you ride in the bus?....

 

[melloelky]

Oh no it was inside sans Cooper helmet..

 

[Rt Jam]

Well as someone who has worked in the automotive field for over 30 years I can tell you that your info on centering the wheel is wrong. Have you ever performed an alignment? You will find guys will find the center or high point of the steering box or rack. Then make sure the steering wheel is indexed if it can be installed in more than one position. Then the tie rods are adjusted. This of course after camber and caster are adjusted or verified to be in spec.
You can go into any shop that does alignments and that is the way it is done. I can assure you that they are not worrying if the center link is perfectly centered. The alignment is correct If the steering wheel is straight and the car goes down the road straight. But I'm sure you will have another cute response.

No, a centerlink being centered is NOT the be all and end all of and alignment. I am only saying it is ideal to have it centered and tie rod assemblies to be equal in length. This info is not needed for a good car needing a tie rod end or bushing replaced and an alignment. I'm saying for a full restoration when the entire car was apart. Equal length parts like tie rod assembles are the where you start.

If one tie rod assembly is 19" from the inner tie rod to the outer AND the other is 15" from the inner to the outer. Do not send it out the door. Look a little deeper into the reason. Maybe the frame is bent, the steering wheel in not installed correctly or as you said, the steering box was not assembled properly.

Same as rear upper control arms. Equal length is the starting point. Now if you find the tire is close to the quarter panel lip. Check the centerline of the rear. If it's also good, which is probably is. Fix the body. Do not make your upper arms a 12" on one side and 13" on the other because of a poorly hung quarter. I fully understand a few thou to correct the thrust angle but again, just voicing my opinion on moving it for the wrong reasons.

Adjusting until you have what you need is the ONLY reason I voiced in this thread. Sometimes there is a reason some wild adjustment is necessary. If a car has a 1" stack of shims on one side, and nothing on the other or you have to rat tail out a hole to make something fit. Stop and figure out why.

 

[gnvair]

I will respond that there are right ways and wrong ways as well as things that work and things that don't work. I posted my experience both privately and as a professional. I will conclude by saying I know what has worked for me and my customers.