CUTLASS Alternator Not Charging!

LuckyHurstGuy

LuckyHurstGuy

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 22, 2015
16
0
1
#1
OK I got a big mess here. I've looked at other forum entries on this topic and I can't seem to whittle it down enough to find the information I'm looking for, so sorry if this is repetitive from previous posts, but here goes.....

I've got a 1983 Hurst Olds, all stock. I was having a problem with drive belt squeak on the power steering pump so I decided to replace it. I had to remove the alternator belt to do this, and of course I had to loosen and swivel the alternator inward to get it's belt loose. Replace the belts, everything looks right, start the car. I still have some belt squeak (naturally), but now my alternator isn't charging.

Charge light is on, gauge reads way low. Used a meter to check the battery terminals, 12.3 volts. No charge. So, naturally, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue since I had to swivel the alternator, something loosened up or... something. Wiggle everything, no change. The 2 plug connector's clip had previously broken, so I figure I'll replace it. Got a good one from the pick n pull, installed, no change. I did the jumper trick from pin 2 to the main terminal on the back of the alternator, and I'm getting over 14 volts, so the alternator's working.

I wiggled the wires around, I thought the gray wire on the 2 plug connector was open, but I'm guessing I just wasn't making good contact because I can't reproduce that open reading, the wire appears to be fine. The voltage on it when I turn the ignition seems to vary for no reason, from 8 to 11 volts, I have no clue why. I checked the volts on the back of the alternator without the jumper, it read 34 volts!!! I don't see how that could be, but there it is. Anyway...

1. The gray wire on the 2 plug connector. I keep reading this goes hot when you turn on the ignition. Is this supposed to be a full 12 volts? Should the voltage vary at all?

2. If it's a matter of just getting 12 volts to pin 1 on the alternator, can I just rig a new wire that goes hot with the ignition to it and bypass the old one entirely?

3. Why the hell would I read over 30 volts on the back of the alternator?? This doesn't seem real but I checked it twice.

4. Is there somewhere online I can get a good wiring diagram showing the pinouts from the firewall to the alternator? Not the simplified version but a good schematic one?

I'm really getting fed up with this, I've been working on this issue off and on for about 2 weeks and I could really use some help here.

Thanks!
 
Texas82GP

Texas82GP

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Apr 3, 2015
4,317
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Spring, Texas
#2
I take it this is not what you are looking for?
chargecircuit-jpg.83659


I think you may be getting some false readings from your meter due to bad connections. The problem seems like it has to be associated with moving the alternator. I hope others will chime in. Love the 83 Hurst!
 
LuckyHurstGuy

LuckyHurstGuy

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 22, 2015
16
0
1
#3
Yeah, I appreciate it, I already have that schematic. It's really a crazy fault, and it's doubly aggravating since all I did is slide the alternator over to make this happen. Losing patience with it!
 
64nailhead

64nailhead

G-Body Guru
Dec 1, 2014
733
428
63
Upstate NY
#4
Bad ground or charge wire. 35 year old wiring just let you down is my guess. Is the idiot light functioning correctly?
 
Texas82GP

Texas82GP

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Apr 3, 2015
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Spring, Texas
#5
Yeah, I appreciate it, I already have that schematic. It's really a crazy fault, and it's doubly aggravating since all I did is slide the alternator over to make this happen. Losing patience with it!
Hang in there. Don't let the frustration get the best of you. Just get away from it for a little while and come back fresh. You'll get it.
 
MrSony

MrSony

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 15, 2014
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Des Moines, Iowa
#6
I take it this is not what you are looking for?
View attachment 83659

I think you may be getting some false readings from your meter due to bad connections. The problem seems like it has to be associated with moving the alternator. I hope others will chime in. Love the 83 Hurst!
Downloaded that quick as I could.
 
MrSony

MrSony

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 15, 2014
3,770
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Des Moines, Iowa
#7
You get the alternator tested? Does the voltage go up/stabilize when you rev the engine?
 
LuckyHurstGuy

LuckyHurstGuy

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 22, 2015
16
0
1
#8
Idiot light is working, voltmeter shows very low i.e. not charging. I did take the alternator in and they say it's fine. I even tried swapping the alternator from my Chevy into it, same results. I'm sure it's wiring, what I need to figure out is what the normal states are of the wires when everything is working properly. Now correct me if I'm wrong, pin 1 on the plug gets voltage with the key and "energizes" the alternator, allowing it to charge the battery, right? Should that be a steady 12v? Pin 2 on the plug is... well I'm not sure. Can someone tell me what pin 2 is doing? It's heaver gauge then pin 1, same gauge as the main voltage output wire on the back of the alternator... what's that pin supposed to be doing?

When I rev the engine there is no change at all in output according to the voltmeter.

I'm sorry, this whole thing is really irritating! All this because I wanted to change a stupid belt!!!!
 
fleming442

fleming442

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 26, 2013
3,400
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#9
Sounds like the internal regulator isn't sensing off pin 2. Are you getting voltage on that? Check for continuity between pin 2 and the post at the starter.
 
Daca214

Daca214

Master Mechanic
Dec 1, 2017
257
180
43
Jupiter, FL
#10
Did you come to any resolution on this issue? Im having the same problem currently
 

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