OK I got a big mess here. I've looked at other forum entries on this topic and I can't seem to whittle it down enough to find the information I'm looking for, so sorry if this is repetitive from previous posts, but here goes.....
I've got a 1983 Hurst Olds, all stock. I was having a problem with drive belt squeak on the power steering pump so I decided to replace it. I had to remove the alternator belt to do this, and of course I had to loosen and swivel the alternator inward to get it's belt loose. Replace the belts, everything looks right, start the car. I still have some belt squeak (naturally), but now my alternator isn't charging.
Charge light is on, gauge reads way low. Used a meter to check the battery terminals, 12.3 volts. No charge. So, naturally, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue since I had to swivel the alternator, something loosened up or... something. Wiggle everything, no change. The 2 plug connector's clip had previously broken, so I figure I'll replace it. Got a good one from the pick n pull, installed, no change. I did the jumper trick from pin 2 to the main terminal on the back of the alternator, and I'm getting over 14 volts, so the alternator's working.
I wiggled the wires around, I thought the gray wire on the 2 plug connector was open, but I'm guessing I just wasn't making good contact because I can't reproduce that open reading, the wire appears to be fine. The voltage on it when I turn the ignition seems to vary for no reason, from 8 to 11 volts, I have no clue why. I checked the volts on the back of the alternator without the jumper, it read 34 volts!!! I don't see how that could be, but there it is. Anyway...
1. The gray wire on the 2 plug connector. I keep reading this goes hot when you turn on the ignition. Is this supposed to be a full 12 volts? Should the voltage vary at all?
2. If it's a matter of just getting 12 volts to pin 1 on the alternator, can I just rig a new wire that goes hot with the ignition to it and bypass the old one entirely?
3. Why the hell would I read over 30 volts on the back of the alternator?? This doesn't seem real but I checked it twice.
4. Is there somewhere online I can get a good wiring diagram showing the pinouts from the firewall to the alternator? Not the simplified version but a good schematic one?
I'm really getting fed up with this, I've been working on this issue off and on for about 2 weeks and I could really use some help here.
Thanks!
I've got a 1983 Hurst Olds, all stock. I was having a problem with drive belt squeak on the power steering pump so I decided to replace it. I had to remove the alternator belt to do this, and of course I had to loosen and swivel the alternator inward to get it's belt loose. Replace the belts, everything looks right, start the car. I still have some belt squeak (naturally), but now my alternator isn't charging.
Charge light is on, gauge reads way low. Used a meter to check the battery terminals, 12.3 volts. No charge. So, naturally, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue since I had to swivel the alternator, something loosened up or... something. Wiggle everything, no change. The 2 plug connector's clip had previously broken, so I figure I'll replace it. Got a good one from the pick n pull, installed, no change. I did the jumper trick from pin 2 to the main terminal on the back of the alternator, and I'm getting over 14 volts, so the alternator's working.
I wiggled the wires around, I thought the gray wire on the 2 plug connector was open, but I'm guessing I just wasn't making good contact because I can't reproduce that open reading, the wire appears to be fine. The voltage on it when I turn the ignition seems to vary for no reason, from 8 to 11 volts, I have no clue why. I checked the volts on the back of the alternator without the jumper, it read 34 volts!!! I don't see how that could be, but there it is. Anyway...
1. The gray wire on the 2 plug connector. I keep reading this goes hot when you turn on the ignition. Is this supposed to be a full 12 volts? Should the voltage vary at all?
2. If it's a matter of just getting 12 volts to pin 1 on the alternator, can I just rig a new wire that goes hot with the ignition to it and bypass the old one entirely?
3. Why the hell would I read over 30 volts on the back of the alternator?? This doesn't seem real but I checked it twice.
4. Is there somewhere online I can get a good wiring diagram showing the pinouts from the firewall to the alternator? Not the simplified version but a good schematic one?
I'm really getting fed up with this, I've been working on this issue off and on for about 2 weeks and I could really use some help here.
Thanks!