Been stuck trying to figure out this problem, I have a Napa 2134011SW alternator. And can not get any type of charge to the battery. I’ve replace the alternator twice as well as had the battery tested. I have a very simple setup with no accessories on. I have 2 gauge wire( new wire) going from the main batt+ terminal of the alternator to the positive post of the starter (mini starter) . Then to a kill switch(summit push/pull) and to the battery( optima yellow top under 5 years old) in the trunk. Ground wires go from battery to bell housing bolt. As well as two engine to frame wires and a separate wire from frame to the big ground lug on the alternator. With all this the voltage never changes and slowly drops. From all my research this is the 1 wire alternator to get. Unless they changed something within the last few years I shouldn’t be having any problems, but I still can’t get a charge. Any help would be great. Thanks !
HELP Alternator problems
- Thread starter Livewild
- Start date
- Status
According to Napa's website in the description of this alternator 'One Wire Capable - No' means to me that you need either a sense wire or resistance wire hooked up.
Is this setup new to the car, or has this worked in the past and doesn't work presently?
Is this setup new to the car, or has this worked in the past and doesn't work presently?
at the alternator, starter, kill switch and battery all read the same. Around 12 volts and slowly drops over time, until the battery drops not allowing any cranking due to low voltage.
Everything is new. I did see on the website that one wire capable was listed as NO, but if you search up the part number it comes up on multiple different sources as the go to 1 wire alternator swap, for things such as Jeep’s, tractors and other applications as well.
Start it and let it warm up a bit, have volt gauge connected. Rev up the engine might have to go as high as 3500 RPM to get it to excite the field see if you get 14+ volts.
Self excitation can take a lot of RPMs to start. Might find a 3 wire setup is preferable.
Just my useless opinion.
Ground wire should also be 2ga and go to the engine block if your (-) battery cable goes to the engine block.
Self excitation can take a lot of RPMs to start. Might find a 3 wire setup is preferable.
Just my useless opinion.
Ground wire should also be 2ga and go to the engine block if your (-) battery cable goes to the engine block.
Last edited:
Rev the engine a bit and see if there’s any changes at a higher RPM, but I think the voltage drop suggests either theres some ground that needs to be looked at, or there’s a malfunctioning part in the car that is doing a drain.
But first, go get the alternator checked at a parts store. The best way is to start simple.
Now there’s a really old trick you can do is removing the ground cable while it’s running, but that can be risky. (As newer cars are way more commonly known for this)
I’ve tried a few different things I think I’m going to figure out a three wire setup. Or what ever I can do to make it work. The problem is it’s a track only car. 3 gal fuel cell and a Honda Civic style radiator with electronic fuel pump. I don’t have any run time and I don’t know if a alternator would even be beneficial. I’m considering a 16 volt swap. Just need the funds
- Status
Similar threads
