amateur mechanic - 1984 base MC gets 5.3L/4L60e

MJScarangella

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
153
43
Pennsville, NJ
Going to get the original driveshaft from the v6/thm250 shortened 2+5/16" for use with the holley/hooker LS engine mounts and 4L60e. I measured twice and got the same number. Forgetfulness comes in handy for independent verification of measurements in case of lack of helpful friends/family for peer-check. 1)measure, 2)write down, 3) forget, 4) repeat... Thanks for the consult 64nailhead.

Was looking at my PSI harness and its instructions [again] last night... Ummm. Yeaaah. Okaaay. I'm not going to find the space for that in the car, so I've tentatively decided to put the 'puter and fuse center in a plastic enclosure in front of the windshield washer reservoir over the front driver's side tire. Although it is a factory ECM and factory-like loomed harness, the main blue/red connectors to the 'puter are not weatherproofed like they were from factory, so I'm going to take some care to keep it dry when someday I get caught in the rain.
 
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MJScarangella

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
153
43
Pennsville, NJ
Besides finding a place to stick the Ambient Air Temperature Sensor, what's stopping me from just hanging the air filter and MAF off the throttle body? I have this very heavy 4" dia plastic cold air intake kit with a bunch of bends; I can make a saw cut anywhere... but it's quite heavy and I'm going to have to support it with a bracket to the engine to get the stress off the connection to the throttle body.

Not really sure I need to develop 'laminar or fully developed' flow with a certain length of tube... The MAF honeycomb should take care of that...

Anyway, I've seen a lot of your cold air intakes. They all look pretty bitchin'. I want simple and I want sturdy and I want functional (without leakage).

What would you do given these materials?

Elephant snout? Off to area where the fume charcoal canister was? Back towards the firewall? Help me.
 

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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
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Dec 26, 2013
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I don't know how much truth there is to it, or how much it matters. I do remember hearing that the MAF should be 10" from the TB, though. As far as the filter goes, cold air makes horsepower, so the less underhood heat you have, the better off you are. Just try to keep it dry. I used an airbox from a 93 blazer on my Series 2 swap, but the MAF is built into the TB. Confused yet?
 

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
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Apr 3, 2015
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Spring, Texas
Maybe you could put the computer and fuse box in a water tight enclosure (some sort of substantial plastic box with a waterproof lid) and put it in whichever battery tray you aren't using? We used the PSI harness on my brother's car but put the computer and fuse box under the dash on the passenger side.
 

MJScarangella

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
153
43
Pennsville, NJ
I just figured out that my coil brackets don't work on the passenger side. The last coil is interfering with the heater box. Not the bracket, but the coil. So, does anybody have a bracket to suggest?

I think I'm going to stencil the bolt pattern of the bracket onto a piece of 0.06" sheet aluminum and then offset the holes to the north east 0.5". Then I'll bolt the OEM bracket to the fabbed bracket to the valve cover.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Supporting Member
Apr 3, 2015
6,760
113
Spring, Texas
I just figured out that my coil brackets don't work on the passenger side. The last coil is interfering with the heater box. Not the bracket, but the coil. So, does anybody have a bracket to suggest?

I think I'm going to stencil the bolt pattern of the bracket onto a piece of 0.06" sheet aluminum and then offset the holes to the north east 0.5". Then I'll bolt the OEM bracket to the fabbed bracket to the valve cover.
I sure thought that engine was going to be too far back when I saw those mounts. You could do coil relocation. A minor modification to your existing bracket is a more pragmatic approach.
 

MJScarangella

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
153
43
Pennsville, NJ
I sure thought that engine was going to be too far back when I saw those mounts. You could do coil relocation. A minor modification to your existing bracket is a more pragmatic approach.
Looks like I can get ICT brackets that are used on an S10 LS swap with truck coils for $50. It bunches the coils up in the center of the valve cover, and the stock spark wires won't be long enough for the front and rear coils, but the wires will fit the center 2 coils.

I'd like to ask a very dumb question. Is the wiring sub-harness for the coils the same on the left and right? When I took them off the junkyard engine I marked them left and right, and not passenger/driver, so I don't know what's left and what's right looking fore or looking aft. They appear to be identical and symmetric and I know firing order is a fundamental thing.
 

MJScarangella

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
153
43
Pennsville, NJ
fixed it with a wire tie!

JK

UPDATE: I'm going to use ICT remote coil mount on a purpose-built ICT valve cover bracket on the passenger side. ICT part numbers are 5551583 for the mounting hardware and 5551115-01 for the valve cover brackets. If I leave the driver's side stock, I should be able to use 6 of my NGK spark plug wires; I'll have to buy a set of longer wires for the fore and aft coils on the passenger side. Should look like the attached picture when I'm done (with wires and dirt and a truck intake).
 

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