amateur mechanic - 1984 base MC gets 5.3L/4L60e

MJScarangella

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
250
63
Pennsville, NJ
3.42 is the a good ratio for your combination. What's the story on the carrier/gearset? Did someone swap it in for you? Are the gears aftermarket (Punjab Gear Co.)?
I got the kit from "quick performance" in Iowa. The gentleman that rebuilt the 4L60E [for what amounted to the cost of a new one] took out the 2.41 open diff and put in this kit for $600. He's a sixty-year-old guy seems to know what he's doing... said he has built many rears, but would not install anything that wasn't OEM like. My priority was getting the car back on the road quickly before I smashed the windshield... I could have spent $2K on a new Ford 9" for g-body made by local speed shop, and bolted it in myself. Instead I spent $1,100 on new gears and labor to make the ratio more compatible with overdrive. I threw money at this project like a Democrat. Next build will be slower and less subcontracted.

 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
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Apr 3, 2015
7,043
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Spring, Texas
I got the kit from "quick performance" in Iowa. The gentleman that rebuilt the 4L60E [for what amounted to the cost of a new one] took out the 2.41 open diff and put in this kit for $600. He's a sixty-year-old guy seems to know what he's doing... said he has built many rears, but would not install anything that wasn't OEM like. My priority was getting the car back on the road quickly before I smashed the windshield... I could have spent $2K on a new Ford 9" for g-body made by local speed shop, and bolted it in myself. Instead I spent $1,100 on new gears and labor to make the ratio more compatible with overdrive. I threw money at this project like a Democrat. Next build will be slower and less subcontracted.

Your perspective on these things can change given the current circumstances in your life. When my brother and I built his car, we mostly bought engineered solutions as he had more money than we had time or talent. Now that we have more tools, experience and I'd like to think talent, I lean more towards fabrication. Don't be hard on yourself. You don't even have a garage. You've done well. Believe me, I've made plenty of mistakes and spent money I didnt have to.

I mostly try to avoid having others work on my stuff with some exceptions. Too often, I'm disappointed with the work of others.
 
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MJScarangella

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
250
63
Pennsville, NJ
Looking for advice for break-in oil.... Everything seems to be synthetic or synthetic blend. Trying to find old school conventional motor oil.

Please advise on your favored break-in oil.

Also, would love to hear your thoughts on break-in process. I've hear oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 300, 500 and 1,000 miles with conventional motor oil. One thing I've read is that I need to gun it several times right away...

Anyway, still a week or two away from start-up.

What about this advice: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Jul 1, 2018
1,444
113
NW Indiana
I'm using a break in oil 10w30 weight from Lunati. Any good oil will do really.
I'd run her normal for first few hundred miles. Getting on her hard shouldn't hurt anything as long as it was built properly.
Drive it like you stole it used to be the norm. Might still be. I'm a little more mellow these days
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
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Dec 1, 2014
3,331
113
Upstate NY
Old school break in oil doesn’t apply to modern ring packages.

If a machine shop honed the cylinders and supplied a ring package, then that shop should be your source for break-in oil.
In terms of procedure, do not run it at the same rpm for much more than 30 seconds under load. The ‘run it like you stole it’ program has always worked for me.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Supporting Member
Apr 3, 2015
7,043
113
Spring, Texas
Looking for advice for break-in oil.... Everything seems to be synthetic or synthetic blend. Trying to find old school conventional motor oil.

Please advise on your favored break-in oil.

Also, would love to hear your thoughts on break-in process. I've hear oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 300, 500 and 1,000 miles with conventional motor oil. One thing I've read is that I need to gun it several times right away...

Anyway, still a week or two away from start-up.

What about this advice: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This is what came with my engine...

The Summit conventional, zinc rich oil would probably work well for break in.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
7,517
113
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Toss some Rotella in there and send it.
 
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MJScarangella

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2020
250
63
Pennsville, NJ

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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
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Dec 1, 2014
3,331
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Upstate NY
Wow, that looks great!!

And I’m with Mike in the break in - chuck some Rotella in there, get warmed up around the neighborhood, then piss off the neighbors with roastey smokeys for a set of tires. It’ll be fine.
 
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