Any painters on here?

[Rt Jam]

I want to paint this Goodmark aftermarket header panel, and these front and rear reproduction bumper fillers.

Before the car gets assembled and painted I thought this would be the time to make these pieces black.

How to prep and would Tremclad rattle can spray be okay?

 

[mikester]

Im sure everyone has a different opinion but I wouldnt use rattle can paint on any body part. Its thinned down so it can be sprayed out of that can. Just my opinion though.

 

[565bbchevy]

It's temporary but other than the GN fenders on my Regal the rest of the car I painted with Rustoleum black when I was off for Covid for 5 weeks, it was windy and still cold out but I wanted to drive it as one color instead of six.

 

[383_GrandPrix]

If you plan on using a proper automotive paint to paint the car, I wouldn't be putting an oil paint like Tremclad on because I'm pretty sure you won't be able to pain over it, you'll have to strip it and restart when the time comes. Rktpwrd would be a good member to ask about pain and body work. Both oldscool and the juggernaut are testimates to that.

 

[pagrunt]

I'd go with atleast a economy line & use a spray gun over a can. With three different materials to paint, each will have to be prepped & sprayed. The bumper fillers may need a flex additive so they won't crack/flake if flexed after painting.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Agreed with the previous responses.
I actually kinda hate replying to questions like this because the OP usually already knows the answer before posting. If spray bombs and Tremclad held up and looked fabulous, everyone would be doing it and body shops would be out of business.
Proper paint and prep is just that, proper and not cutting corners or cheaping out on materials. It’s neither cheap nor easy, this is one of those instances where you get what you pay for.

Will you be satisfied with a half-assed rattle can spray job on those pieces? The answer to that is the answer to your question. If so, go for it and don’t look back. But if you’re not, then you’ve got to do it right. Use a proper catalytized primer, add flex agent to the bumper filler pieces, and get yourself some real paint, not hardware store crap. Even the lower end budget friendly single stage paint lines are preferable to rattle can junk.

Cheap, fast or easy, none of these apply to bodywork, paint, and paint prep. The choice is yours. If you’re serious about doing it properly, let me know and I’ll be more than happy to make the specific recommendations to achieving a proper finished product that will last, and not end up costing you more time, money, and grief in the long run.

 

[64nailhead]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. You have to have a goal and stick to it. Rattle cans work fine for certain situations. But it will not be a show piece and no where near the durability of proper paint and prep.

What is your skill set, access to proper tools, and of course, goal with the appearance?

 

[Drkuhar]

You could spend a little.more and have a paint shop mix actual 1k single stage paint (no hardener needed) in a spray can. Would hold up better than regular rattle can paint

 

[mikester]

The problem stems from the VOC laws. Consumer quality paint is crap. Rustolium, Krylon, anything you buy in the local hardware store will fail in a short time if exposed to the elements. All the good stuff (or bad depending how you look at it) was removed from paint. I think the big thing was lead. When I was doing the work on my wagon I tried to take a shortcut. Instead of breaking out the spraygun, covering everything in my garage and mixing up a small amount of paint I decided to use rattle can semi gloss black on the pittman and idler arms and the outer tie rod ends. I also used rattle can primer. Pretty sure it was Rustolium.
The car was on stands in front of my garage. While I was doing all this I had an issue with my knee. I wound up having having surgery to fix a torn meniscus. It put me out of action for a short time. Unfortunatly the cold weather set in and I covered the front of the car with a blue tarp. Probably the worst idea I could have had but I didnt want the freshly painted frame to be exposed to the harsh temps and possible snow. In the end when I uncovered everything the stuff I sprayed with the 2K paint was perfect. EVERYTHING painted with a rattle can turned to crap. Even the AC box faded. That was painted with Duplicolor low gloss black engine enamel. At the time I was pretty pissed. Partially because I covered it and partially because I knew better than to trust spray paint. At the time I was able to buy plastic safe paint stripper so I was able to strip the AC box. Anything metal got repainted with better quality paint.
Sad thing is automotive paint is heading down the same road.

 

[MalibuDavyou5]

For Prep I would do a light sanding, say 1000 - 2000 grit, just enough to get a surface the paint would stick to, or another option is a Paint adhesive (outside Bumpers, and Fillers if they aren't already Sprayed in Primer). After which A spray can (Tremclad) would do fine, but it depends on your skill in spray painting. Shake often and start off at first 10" inches away get a light dusty coat on let dry then continue layering it: x3 Coats about 8" inches away there after (Assuming your skill in spray painting is not where it needs to be). However this is all going to depend primarily on what your trying to achieve. If your going for "Stock" Paint matching color, spray cans are doable but very pricey. My suggestion for a clear coat spray can route - is Dupli-Color Perfect Match 8 ounce clear coat Spray (Outer/Showing area). Then comes buffing and waxing after 3 to 4 coats of clear. . .

For the Fillers (Underneath/behind/Inside) this is where it gets tricky. But from the looks of it they are going to have to be sprayed in Primer: x3 Coats Grey (Use above Sanding or adhesive suggestion. Recommended you keep the 10" inch distance at all times when spraying this area, some tricky corners on those parts and you don't want to over spray causing unwanted drips or build up. Sanding on primer is also required, 1000 grit light sanding to smooth at least on the outside showing surface of the fillers. Paint for the fillers should also be Vinyl Compatible. . . And for the life of me I can't remember if the Bumper filler area of the GN is Flat Black, I think it is but someone here can verify that better than me. .

Fair warning, It's allot of work . I spray canned my Malibu (The whole thing, almost. And that was kind of a dumb move, however my skill with the rattle can is where I was more comfortable, Maybe I can now graduate over to using a Spray Gun). I learned the hard way every step that needs to be done, and still yet I have to go back and re-do certain areas of the car as the previous owner only sprayed on primer without sanding old paint off, and there are other areas I need to spray. Again it's doable but requires time, effort and patience.