I figure with all the northerners in here a few of you ought to be good with salamanders. Mine will only work with the lid off for a minute or so. Will not light with the lid on at all. Used to work perfect then one day decided to be a POS. I tried a couple different pump pressures thinking maybe my elevation was a factor but that had zero impact. I disassembled the nozzle and blew carb cleaner through it, but it was clear. I blew through the pump line and fuel line, both were clear. Cleaned the already clean optical sensor, watched the ignitor glow red prior to ignition with the lid off. Everything looks to be in order but it just won't light with the lid on.
Anyone Familiar With Troubleshooting Torpedo Heaters?
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What brand and BTU?
When it shuts off is being shut off electrically it is it being starved for fuel or air?
When it shuts off is being shut off electrically it is it being starved for fuel or air?
Might be a temp sensor inside cover not working correctly? Pictures would help.
It's a Remington 125T, didn't grab any pics. Has an ignitor (no spark plug), a fuel nozzle, and a light sensor in there.
I have a Toro 100,000 BTU unit that needs the air pump disassembled and the filters replaced every 5-6 years. As the carbon veins on the air pump wear they deposit carbon in the fiber filter inside the pump and restrict the flow.
The housing that the carbon veins ride in becomes dirty and can also cause them to stick. You may just need a cleaning and a tune up kit.
Seeing the information you provided here is a 15 min You-Tube video of a guy bringing a Remington heater back to life. Shows the air pump rebuild.
The housing that the carbon veins ride in becomes dirty and can also cause them to stick. You may just need a cleaning and a tune up kit.
Seeing the information you provided here is a 15 min You-Tube video of a guy bringing a Remington heater back to life. Shows the air pump rebuild.
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I did watch another good YouTube video on how they work so I probably should scatter that pump, it just seems weird to me that if the pump can supply the needed pressure you'd think it's good right?
You would think so in theory. When you mentioned the unit will run without the cover it reminds me of my Toro unit which seems sensitive to the build up of carbon in the fiber filter.
79 USA 1 that's why I asked how it was stopping the fire. The cover being off is supplying enough air to the fan, but not when the air flow is restricted by the cover.
All of these are very similar after they get to the 100K BTU level until you get into ones that look like an atom bomb. Parts are readily available online as well as service manuals. Mine is 125K that is the same heater as 4 other brands.
All of these are very similar after they get to the 100K BTU level until you get into ones that look like an atom bomb. Parts are readily available online as well as service manuals. Mine is 125K that is the same heater as 4 other brands.
It's not stopping the fire, the thing doesn't light at all with the cover on. Blows a nice refreshing cloud of diesel out the front. I suppose I could just freshen up the pump itself, seems like it wouldn't be a waste to do that. I'm trying to avoid the parts cannon.
I know it sounds stupid, but replace all of the rubber lines first. I've seen many where they dry rot, and suck air causing lots of issues. Plus it's simple and cheap to do. That's how I fixed the last one that was given to me for free.
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