Anyone run AN fuel lines front to back?

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bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
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Don’t use steel braided rubber. The old hose gets eaten by ethanol fuel. It’s funny I had the same steel braided rubber hose 20+ years in the race car using leaded race gas. With unleaded 6-8 years at best.
 
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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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The only issue I have ever had with braided lines is with some brands fittings having the anodized coating fade over time when subjected to a lot of engine heat but never any leaks, just use quality fittings and an installation procedure that works.
Or, properly tightening the house brand, China boi shizz breaks it....
 

motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
8,976
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Saskatchewan, Truckistan
-8 AN feed in the wagon with a Corvette regulator kicking -6 AN back to the tank; and a -10 AN feed in the MCSS with -6 AN return (PTFE).

Works fine, just keep it nice and secure so it doesn't chaff against the frame or body.

Had that happen in my old Turbo Buick, it made a mess. I believe that car had a -10 AN feed and -6 AN return.

So, yes. A lot it seems.
 
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Nov 4, 2012
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I'm thinking about it. Gonna be pulling the body off here in the next week or so and I'll be running the lines before I put it back on.
 
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mc1984ss

Master Mechanic
May 18, 2020
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Here's where I'm at, I have a stainless hard line bent to match the factory bends with -8 ends on it. I had it made by inline tube a long time ago. I figure it will be a miracle if I am able to get it in the car where it's supposed to be. If I cannot get it in I'll cut it in half and flare the ends and hope I can get it in in two pieces. Just got in from the garage and I pulled the 5/16" original line out in one piece. Obviously the new one is much bigger but I'm not giving up yet. I will use ptfe lines at each end which is impervious to any fuels including nitromethane. I really really really do not want to lift the body to install the fuel lines. My plan B is to use a proper flexible hose. Thanks for the help
 
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nawlins-tim

Master Mechanic
Nov 9, 2009
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On my (unfinished) wagon LSX swap I got a bright idea that I was going to save money by using -8 braided line at the tank and -8 braided line at the engine bay. But was going to use ,5inch aluminum line in the Straight runs of the frame rails. But I think even though the aluminum line is way cheaper that the braided stuff , I cost myself a bunch extra in fittings. Still not finished so I might just go -8 feed and -8 return with earls black braided line.
 

mc1984ss

Master Mechanic
May 18, 2020
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Here is a picture of the stock 3/8 feed and the 5/16" return lines removed. I managed to get them out in one piece. I can't find a picture of the prebent 1/2" stainless line as I received it. I didn't even try to install it in one piece. I cut it about 3/4 the way back and flared the end. I was super excited when I was able to get it installed in the car. I have the front tube mocked up in the car. I'm waiting for my -8 unions to show up and I will connect the two. That's the plan anyway
 

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L92 OLDS

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 30, 2012
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On my (unfinished) wagon LSX swap I got a bright idea that I was going to save money by using -8 braided line at the tank and -8 braided line at the engine bay. But was going to use ,5inch aluminum line in the Straight runs of the frame rails. But I think even though the aluminum line is way cheaper that the braided stuff , I cost myself a bunch extra in fittings. Still not finished so I might just go -8 feed and -8 return with earls black braided line.

And to think you could have saved a bunch of money and used OEM nylon materials. 🤪

I am going to buy stock in AN fittings and braided hose..

 
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