I have a very stuck companion flange nut and nothing is working. I spied this universal flange holding tool but wondered how strong it is. Anyone have opions?
Anyone try this flange tool?
- Thread starter Bonnewagon
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are you trying to crush the sleeve in the rear end? We always use the wheel studs to hold it in place. I've never used a flange tool
NO! Just change out the leaky seal. I know the drill, mark it, undo it, and put it back exactly the same as before, disturbing nothing. I tried a breaker bar with a cheater pipe and the pipe was bending. I used one u-joint strap to hold a bar that was wedged up against the bottom of the car to keep the flange from moving but it was slipping out from the force. Impact didn't work either. Normally that does it but this is a real sumbitch.
There was one we had to use the impact gun that they use on the big rigs. If you know anyone who does roadside repairs for trucks should have one that will do the job or maybe a tool rental with have the impact you need. You have probably already thought of this but it may be a good idea to change the bearing that is sitting behind the seal.
I always used an impact. Borrow a bigger one?
Before I start I remove the wheels and brakes, use an inch pound torque wrench to measure pinion bearing preload by rotating the pinion nut.
Before I start I remove the wheels and brakes, use an inch pound torque wrench to measure pinion bearing preload by rotating the pinion nut.
"Before I start I remove the wheels and brakes, use an inch pound torque wrench to measure pinion bearing preload by rotating the pinion nut." Words to live by. You understand how rears work! I have a 3/4" ratchet that will probably get it off, I just needed a way to really lock the companion flange in place without transmitting the force to the bearings and gears. I just scored that long holding tool on Epay for $50 so I will wait until it gets here before I have at it again. Steve, I wanted to just change the seal without any drama because this is a truly silent rear. If I change the bearing then I'm forced to change the crush collar too. I'm trying to sneak in and get out without the rear knowing I was there! Too bad this nut is on so tight!
At my old shop my buddy made his own with a 40" or so piece of angle iron with a couple slotted holes in it to match the u-joint strap and would bolt that in place. Worked like a charm for $0...
And having it that long its able to hit the floor so you dont have to hold it. Thats how I do them.Blake442 said:
I considered doing that. Then I had a vision of busted off grade 8 bolts in the flange. (insert Homer Simpson shudder)
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