Axle bushings

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houston_t

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Nov 15, 2016
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What would be the correct Moog part # for the bushings that go in the ears on the rear axle ?
 

ELCAM

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Jun 19, 2021
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Pretty sure the rear ones are all the same upper, lower, front or back of the arm.

MOOG K6178
 
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69hurstolds

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GM liked to use the Harris brand, but the Moog works just as well, IMO. Depending on usages, some bushings were different part numbers and likely was from different durometers. For example, the 84-87 VIN 9 Olds cars used a different part number (per the parts info) on the 8.5 rear end upper ears than any other bushing. Can't see there's much of a difference. But nobody's been able to explain that. It also could be a phantom part number, i.e., where they wanted to use a certain part number in that application, but for some reason it didn't happen.

The biggest thing you have to watch out for is those waffle bushings. Stay away from them, or if you have them installed, get rid of them. They're too flimsy. If you can find some, maybe buy those F41/1LE bushings for the F-body. They'll fit, but they're SUPPOSEDLY a higher durometer than the standard bushings and they're solid like the OG G-body bushings. GM p/n 10164152.
 
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69hurstolds

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I have found that a lot of the Moog bushings come out of the box with "HARRIS" on them. It looks like the Moog's are made by the same vendor.
I used Moog bushings back in I think 1991 or so on a truck. That was the last time I used Moog stuff and didn't really pay much attention. So I'm not sure who makes them for Moog. Regardless, Moog made what I consider OEM quality stuff. 30 years ago may have been a different story, though. If Harris is on the Moog parts, then it's just as good as using GM stuff. Some of the aftermarket replacement part vendors actually made parts for the auto companies and may still do.
 
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69hurstolds

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You could buy 2 of the Moog bushings mentioned above, and if you're just looking for an easy way out, you can replace the whole thing back there with upper and lower control arms with bushings already installed for $230 plus any applicable sales tax.

Personally, unless my originals were junk, I'd just reuse them, or if upgrading, go with some better stuff. Not sure about the quality, but I haven't really noticed these being available aftermarket before. Maybe they were, but I hadn't noticed.

 

69hurstolds

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT: I would like to add if you buy or swap in new NON-adjustable rear upper control arms, regardless of who makes them, measure your factory ones from centerline hole to hole to ensure the ones you're putting back in are the correct length to maintain proper pinion angle. The factory had "X?" codes stamped on them to denote pinion angle offset, if any. Some had decals on them as well so the line workers could put on the right pieces. While most were 0 degrees (XR, XN, XP, and X X ), GM did have an arm was -1.5 degree (XY) and another that was +1.5 degree (XZ) offsets under different part numbers. That was the limit for G-body factory pinion angle adjustment. I shouldn't have to mention you would have to replace them in pairs of the same codes. So as long as they weren't coded XY or XZ, you had 0 degree offset.

Rear lower control arms were XS, XT, XU, AN. They did not come in different lengths.

Also, if you have a build sheet, you can see what your car came with from the factory. This 83 Cutlass Supreme Canadian car had F41 and 0 degree offset (XR) UCAs on pinion angle and XS LCAs. You can tell it has F41 because PC is the steering box pitman arm for an 800 series box, CY is the code for the 32mm F41 front stabilizer bar, and 795 is for a 16mm rear stabilizer bar p/n 10005795. Calais used the 22mm one and would show 113.

1671538554918.png
 
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houston_t

Greasemonkey
Nov 15, 2016
146
108
43
Metro Detroit
GM liked to use the Harris brand, but the Moog works just as well, IMO. Depending on usages, some bushings were different part numbers and likely was from different durometers. For example, the 84-87 VIN 9 Olds cars used a different part number (per the parts info) on the 8.5 rear end upper ears than any other bushing. Can't see there's much of a difference. But nobody's been able to explain that. It also could be a phantom part number, i.e., where they wanted to use a certain part number in that application, but for some reason it didn't happen.

The biggest thing you have to watch out for is those waffle bushings. Stay away from them, or if you have them installed, get rid of them. They're too flimsy. If you can find some, maybe buy those F41/1LE bushings for the F-body. They'll fit, but they're SUPPOSEDLY a higher durometer than the standard bushings and they're solid like the OG G-body bushings. GM p/n 10164152.
What are waffle bushings ? Thanks for all the info also
 
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69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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I don't have a picture of them, but picture a regular bushing rubber but with through holes in it, almost as if they wanted to flex easier or something. I'm thinking they wouldn't age well. I don't think you can buy them separately, but not sure. I know they came in the later LCAs for F-body and G-body GM replacement arms.
 
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