Back to the Grind (literally!)

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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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So I have finally managed to back to work on my 85 Monte SS project after a serious time lapse. For those with whom I first conversed, I did manage to get the clutch linkage all set up and found the correct upper rod. For anyone else thinking about this conversion, you have to get the upper clutch rod from the 79-81 Elky clutch set up. The older version is the correct length but not bent correctly. I have also managed to get my Muncie built; upgraded the countercluster to the one inch pin and went with the cast iron midplate that has provision for the pin to be anchored by means of a bolt. This means no pin movement or attempted "screw out". All that aside, the big project right now is the driver's side floor pan; the old one was done. it had rusted out so badly that a previous owner tried to fix it using whatever was available and covering the whole botch job with body filler. The whole pan got cut away from the back seat riser to the firewall. Sorry, no pics. Most of you have been there and done that so are familiar with the drill

My big problem, and one I hope this board can help me with, is the speedometer cable. When the T-200-4R 4-spd automatic still resided in the vehicle, the speedometer cable was a two piece unit. The upper section was between 20-24 inches long and the lower section was about 62 inches long. And, of course, there was a coupling located in between them. During tear down, I found that the lower section had taken a lot of damage over the years and owners. The outer casing was both cracked and abraided badly in multiple places. The original plan was to just replace the lower half but the coupling just flat out refused to cooperate. Multiple saturations of various types and brands of penetrating fluids failed to make a dent. Physically restraining the coupling and then applying a hammer to the correctly sized wrench also didn't work. I couldn't simply cut away the collar nut because it was part of the upper cable. I finally did resort to heat in the form of a butane micro torch, but that small amount of red wrench was just enough to melt the upper casing and let it pull free of its ferrule. So now I need both halves. At this point I have been in touch with OPG but they stumbled over the fact that I was shifting from auto to manual. Apparently they believe that the speedo cable for the four speed auto is both special in some way as well as specific to the gauge. This I do not understand as the gauge is analogue, not digital. There is no computer input to or from the speedo unlike current vehicles. So my question is this, "Can anyone offer me a specific pair of part numbers that I can use to order my speedo cable assembly?" As a followup, does the cable actually have to be in two sections or can I use a single cable sized to the correct length with the right ends? The ends themselves seem to be nothing special at first glance, just a slip on that attaches to the gauge and is held in place with a gauge mounted spring clip and a male end at the speedo out of which a section of squared off inner cable protrudes and which is attached to the drive in the tail shaft housing using a light metal gland nut. When I test fitted the corpse of the old cable to the Muncie speedo drive, it plugged in and the gland nut wanted to thread on with no problem. Appreciate any and all who can offer some insight or information on this.
 
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Ribbedroof

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Use the single cable. I found the 80 inch to work best for me...I used the Pioneer CA3001
 
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CopperNick

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Thanks for the reply and the recommendation. Did some serious digging on line and finally found a single cable assembly that measured 83.66" over all. A little further digging and I managed to come up with a factory part number for it. A quick call to my local GM dealer and SURPRISE!! that part it still available and there was accessible inventory of it. So one is on order and should come in around Wednesday next. Glad to be to scratch that part off the wanted list but now it raises another question. Not really relevant to this board per se but I have transmission swap sitting on the books that will consist of pulling a TH350 and substituting a 700-R4 in its place. The recipient does not currently have cruise control but one of the reasons that the M/Carlo had the two piece cable assembly was that it had something to do with the cruise. Not sure how well cruise and FI-TECH EFI might get along so the whole notion of adding the cruise is up for thought. The biggest Q? is the necessity of having to score an overdrive compatible speedometer cable or being able to keep the existing part. The gauge is analogue. Thoughts?
 

ssn696

Living in the Past
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Jul 19, 2009
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There is a retaining ring on the back of the speedo. It's a challenge, but you release it by reaching up around the column and pushing toward you while pulling back the cable.
IMG_20181118_095508958.jpg
 

paul.m

Master Mechanic
Oct 20, 2018
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You will also want to get a set of speedo gears for your muncie , I just went through that , found a set online with about 5 different gears in it , that will cover any rear gear and tire height you may encounter .
 

ssn696

Living in the Past
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You will also want to get a set of speedo gears for your muncie , I just went through that , found a set online with about 5 different gears in it , that will cover any rear gear and tire height you may encounter .
Please share the source. Am I correct in thinking that Muncie/Saginaw speedo senders interchange with the automatics?
 
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paul.m

Master Mechanic
Oct 20, 2018
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Not sure about the interchangeability , but you can go on E bay and look up Muncie speedometer gear , and you will find set,s there under 15 bucks.
 

pagrunt

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Sep 14, 2014
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Muncie's, Saginaw's, T10's, most Chevy TH (350, 250, 200) & Power Glides used the same smaller speedo gears.
 
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