Battery relocation

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Mc87355

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 12, 2018
10
3
3
Hi g body family. I have a 87 Monte Carlo ls and I am putting my battery in trunk. I'm going to include a diagram I think it is close to being right any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. I also have a 350 amp. Beemer switch. Not exactly sure were to put it on. Using 2 gauge welding cable.
 

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Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
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Just run the positive cable from the battery to the r/f inner fender. Then a maybe two foot cable from that junction the starter. Then a ground from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the engine and to the body. No need for any switch at all unless you're going to get tech'd for racing
 

Mc87355

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 12, 2018
10
3
3
Going to the track so will need a breaker or fuse some were. Thanks
 
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bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
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Make sure the alternator is run to the battery side of the switch. Even run it to the battery and then connect the battery to the switch.
 

Chevyman540

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 11, 2016
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62
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Going to the track so will need a breaker or fuse some were. Thanks

Your going to need a cutoff switch. Here is what I did, Negative cable from battery to frame, then frame to engine block and body. Positive cable from battery to cutoff switch, from switch to starter, then to lug on fender to power any accessories. The cutoff switch is there to cut all power to the car it needed by track safety personal.
Also the way my alternator is wired, 1 wire directly to battery positive terminal. Its a 1 wire alternator.
 

Mc87355

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 12, 2018
10
3
3
I have a couple of options here just wanting some input as what would be better. Here a couple of photos. The black wire is welding cable Its 2 awg arc-welding cable type 34 ultraflex csa lr86308. And the red is of a 2500 watt power cable for a amp with a 150 amp fuse. I also have a 300 amp breaker. What would you use. Thanks
 

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-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
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Bellevue, Ohio
Im in the process of doing this now. Using 2/0 welding cable running my hot straight to a kill switch under the car, then up to the glovebox where I have my junction point. Then from there I have a 2/0 cable going through a hole I drilled in the trans tunnel to the starter. I could have used the factory hole in the firewall but I didn't want wires in the engine bay and this way the cable is farther away from my headers and ultimately shorter than if I went the other route.

For ground I ran a 2/0 cable from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the body, from the engine to the frame, and from the engine to the firewall. Can never have too many grounds.

The alternator wire I ran a 4 or 6 gauge cable from the alternator stud to the junction point in the glovebox.

I was going to use a remote solenoid but I don't think it's needed honestly. I bought heavily insulated cable, used wire loom and clips to keep them off of everything, and used insulating heat sleeves for the cable running to the starter.

I used this for distribution point. I love the fact that I can add smaller wires to it easily without having to find 3/8" stud connectors for smaller 14-22 gauge wires.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80114

I should add that for the connectors on all of the cabling I used solder lugs instead of crimping and the thickest heat shrink insulation I could find.
 
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Chevyman540

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 11, 2016
42
62
18
Im in the process of doing this now. Using 2/0 welding cable running my hot straight to a kill switch under the car, then up to the glovebox where I have my junction point. Then from there I have a 2/0 cable going through a hole I drilled in the trans tunnel to the starter. I could have used the factory hole in the firewall but I didn't want wires in the engine bay and this way the cable is farther away from my headers and ultimately shorter than if I went the other route.

For ground I ran a 2/0 cable from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the body, from the engine to the frame, and from the engine to the firewall. Can never have too many grounds.

The alternator wire I ran a 4 or 6 gauge cable from the alternator stud to the junction point in the glovebox.

I was going to use a remote solenoid but I don't think it's needed honestly. I bought heavily insulated cable, used wire loom and clips to keep them off of everything, and used insulating heat sleeves for the cable running to the starter.

I used this for distribution point. I love the fact that I can add smaller wires to it easily without having to find 3/8" stud connectors for smaller 14-22 gauge wires.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80114

I should add that for the connectors on all of the cabling I used solder lugs instead of crimping and the thickest heat shrink insulation I could find.

Since he said he was going to race the car, he needs a cutoff switch to cut all power to the car to shut it off. Wiring the alternator to a junction point in the glove box will charge the system, but will still feed power to the car after the cutoff switch is shut off. You have to be able to isolate all power to the car.
Now if he is going to a outlaw style track, he may be able to get by. If its a sanctioned track (IHRA or NHRA) it won't fly.
 

Mc87355

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 12, 2018
10
3
3
Im in the process of doing this now. Using 2/0 welding cable running my hot straight to a kill switch under the car, then up to the glovebox where I have my junction point. Then from there I have a 2/0 cable going through a hole I drilled in the trans tunnel to the starter. I could have used the factory hole in the firewall but I didn't want wires in the engine bay and this way the cable is farther away from my headers and ultimately shorter than if I went the other route.

For ground I ran a 2/0 cable from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the body, from the engine to the frame, and from the engine to the firewall. Can never have too many grounds.

The alternator wire I ran a 4 or 6 gauge cable from the alternator stud to the junction point in the glovebox.

I was going to use a remote solenoid but I don't think it's needed honestly. I bought heavily insulated cable, used wire loom and clips to keep them off of everything, and used insulating heat sleeves for the cable running to the starter.

I used this for distribution point. I love the fact that I can add smaller wires to it easily without having to find 3/8" stud connectors for smaller 14-22 gauge wires.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80114

I should add that for the connectors on all of the cabling I used solder lugs instead of crimping and the thickest heat shrink insulation I could find.
Since he said he was going to race the car, he needs a cutoff switch to cut all power to the car to shut it off. Wiring the alternator to a junction point in the glove box will charge the system, but will still feed power to the car after the cutoff switch is shut off. You have to be able to isolate all power to the car.
Now if he is going to a outlaw style track, he may be able to get by. If its a sanctioned track (IHRA or NHRA) it won't fly.
Arm drop drags in Picton ont. No big guns yet lol. Thanks for all the intell. Making things seem a lot more understandable.
 
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