Best electric fan to

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gmachinz

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 7, 2005
21
0
0
Des Moines, IA
Best electric fan to date.

If anybody is looking for the absolute best electric fan kit on the market, I have what you need! It's an 18" fan with a progressive voltage controller guaranteed to keep the motor cool at whatever setting you choose and the fan can pull up to 5000 CFM's! No need for relays and very easy to wire. For details, email me and I can answer any questions! -Jabin
 

5-door

n00b
Oct 7, 2005
3
0
0
Saint Paul Park, MN
What kind of amp draw is it? At "5000 cfm", it has to be near 60 amps, which is A LOT! What is the static cfm rating (cfm measured against a radiator)? Your "5000 cfm" rating must be an open air rating, so I'm assuming the static rating is something closer to 2500-3000 cfm.

By the way, in my opinion, Spal makes the best fan on the market. Highest static cfm of ANY fan I have ever seen and only draws 16-19 amps. But I'm curious to learn more about the setup you mentioned.
 

gmachinz

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 7, 2005
21
0
0
Des Moines, IA
Static rating is 3800 CFM. I deal with OEM suppliers and vendors all the time. Siemens VDO Group makes the motor for this fan and their tech department claims it is the most powerful/reliable motor in any production car that they know of. In the factory Lincolns, the ECM uses AC useage, vehicle speed and coolant temp. to gradually ramp up voltage so as not to spike the system. They incorporate a 40-amp fuse for the fan. However, when using a traditional relay, the on/off spike can be as high as 100 amps for a few milli-seconds before drawing a constant 40-45 amps. the key is to use a progressive voltage controller because it is better to maintain a constant temperature instead of always on or off. This way, coolant temps are controlled more reliably and the amp draw in an otherwise good cooling system is between 24-26 amps. Here's another way to look at it: The fan is rated at 5000 CFM but it will most likely never see that, more like 3000 max but the point is that with this fan you'd be using roughly 55-60% fan speed to maintain a stable temperaure. With a relay you are using 100% in short bursts-not good. It's always easier on electrical components to keep a low steady draw vs. all out power drain. This is the reason for the controller I mentioned. As for the fan, I have yet to see (and yes I checked with all the common aftermarkets versions, too) a more powerful fan. You would not want this fan and use a relay to activate it unless you were running at least a 140-amp or higher rated alternator. I've tried about every fan anybody offers and this one gets the job done! -Jabin
 

87MonteSS

Master Mechanic
Jan 3, 2006
304
1
0
Winnipeg, Canada
Why spend all of the extra money? I'm using a dual speed, dual fan setup from a Chrysler Intrepid with an adjustable controller. Works with the AC as well. The car has never overheated whether idling in summer traffic with the AC on or hauling down the highway wide open. Total cost was $20 for the fan and $40 for the controller.

Many people go to high output fans because they don't realize that the either the rad or the AC condensor is clogged.

Don't get me wrong, your fan setup might be good on a 572ci crate engine with a procharger on it, but any less than that doesn't need the overkill IMHO.
 

gmachinz

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 7, 2005
21
0
0
Des Moines, IA
True, most OEM fan designs are efficient enough to provide good cooling. But DC Controls is the ONLY true variable speed controller to begin with-everybody else uses silicon conductors which activate their controller to step up the fan speed by drawing more current. DC Controls uses pulse width modulation to constantly ramp voltage up/down depending on temperature-very different, unique design-and it's fine for use on any engine, not just a race or endurance engine. The other is the ability to maintain an engine temperature of your choice to within +/- 3 degrees. No more waiting for the temps to reach 195 for a relay to ground and bring the temps back down to 180 or so. Basically, the DC Controller is the most accurate way to provide the best cooling AND control your amperage draw and keep combustion chamber temps steady which will aid in longer engine life and a more consistent spark. It's just the latest in cooling technology...some may need it, others might not but it is the best system on the market right now. Interestingly enough, since I know the eletrical engineer (Brian Baskin) that designed it, I can tell you that he was approached by Spal to buy the rights to his design-he turned them down. You know you're onto something when the competition wants to buy you out right away! -Jabin
 

87MonteSS

Master Mechanic
Jan 3, 2006
304
1
0
Winnipeg, Canada
Actually, the best thing to do is let the thermostat keep the engine temperature constant. That's why I use a radiator temperature sensor set to 170 degrees. The thermostat will take care of the rest.

Idling in summer traffic with the AC on the fans never go to second (full) speed and the engine stays at a constant 180. Using an engine temperature sensor will indeed create the temperature fluctuation you mentioned.

A progressive controller is indeed required when using a high current draw fan setup. But again, there aren't too many applications that absolutely need a high current draw fan setup. :wink:

People who don't understand cooling systems create their own issues by removing the thermostat or drilling holes in it or by removing the fan shroud. Then they add to their woes by bolting in a high volume/current fan setup in an attempt to correct the overheating problems.

It's also worthy to note that a high current/flow setup is never required on a stock radiator. If more cooling is required than a clean stock radiator can supply it's time to look at a four core or good three core radiator.

A properly setup cooling system will rarely need the fan(s) during regular highway driving. If you find the fan(s) kicking on or staying on when on the highway there are other issues that a different fan setup will only mask instead of correct. If you have AC and it's on high there will be a requirement for the fan(s) to be on low speed at all times.

As for variable voltage to the fans, that can be dangerous. Remember Ohm's law when looking at current draw at different voltages. Not many fan motors can run at a reduced voltage and increased current draw for an extended period of time. The motors overheat very quickly. Any progressive controller I've seen ramps the voltage up but gets to the full 12V in a matter of seconds. The advantage being far less impact on the charging system on initial fan startup.
 

gmachinz

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 7, 2005
21
0
0
Des Moines, IA
I'd have to dis-agree on a couple areas. First, a stock type three or four core radiator is fine for a 180-hp 305 for example, but once I started driving my '78 every day with a 10.75:1 355 w/3.73 gears and 62cc heads, my stock cooling system would not keep temps below 200. It would creep up to 210-215 in town. My cooling system was as good as stock could be. But being a stock radiator, even with a four core, the tube diameters are too small to move enough coolant fast enough and being brass only adds to its inability to shed heat very effectively. So, in went a Mark VIII cooling fan and since I wanted to measure INLET coolant temps vs. outlet, I went with the DC Controller. Btw, the fanis always operating at 12V, but the controller I mentioned reduces the input to 6V and based on engine temp. its output is somewhere in the area of 7-9 amps and at 12V) to maintain a 180 degree setpoint. That is also why this works on any stock charging system. I agree with you on the drilling of holes, etc. In fact, all else aside, I really have never seen the need for a high volume water pump, either. I run an aluminum one for weight reduction but its standard flow, too. By measuring the inrush of air, the unit will only reduce and/or shut-off it the ambient air temps coming through the radiator are less than whatever the setpoint is adjusted to. And with pro-visions for AC over-ride, under-drive pulley use, run-on after ignition and electric water pump controls, there isn't a better unit available imo. These are worlds apart from standard fan controllers which "claim" to be variable speed. Check them out at www.dccontrol.com -Jabin
 

87MonteSS

Master Mechanic
Jan 3, 2006
304
1
0
Winnipeg, Canada
When I said four or three core radiator I meant aftermarket if the stock radiator can't keep things cool.

I understand that you have a product to sell, but educating potential customers goes a long way toward credibility. ;)
 

gmachinz

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 7, 2005
21
0
0
Des Moines, IA
I actually enjoy good discussions on why or how something works. If I believe in it, I try to promote it. I don't try to stress anything unless I've already gone down every road. I think I've explained fairly well the reasons why the DC Controller is better than any other controller on the market, but the here's another angle. I don't like the design of the circuitry on Flex-a-lite, Derale or Spal. Too much amperage draw whenever the fan is on. Besides the stereo equipment, I also run a transmission cooler w/fan and when I used to run all my fans off relays, the sudden inrush of current just killed performance-and not just the stereo, but the H-4 headlights, dash lights, etc. After much consideration on switching over to a variable speed controller, I read up on DC Controls and Brian is an awesome guy to talk to. He explained how his system differs from everybody else and he plans to attend Sema (or is thinking about it anyway...) to demonstrate his product. I'm merely a distributor for him but after using several of his controllers myself, I can attest to the accuracy of the controller. And, he offers a lifetime warranty! The heat-sink housing features 3X the amount of nitrogen of normal epoxies, making this type a "self-extinguishing" epoxy, meaning if for some reason it ever got a short, it would instantly be snuffed out. The wire harness itself ranks higher in heat resistance that new automobile standards and has been tested (the whole unit) to withstand 400 degrees of direct heat with no drop in voltage....this was for 24 hours straight with no problems so it's safe to say it is very durable. You have a great fan set-up with the Ramcharger fans, I would still run them parallel instead of a two-step with AC over-ride but hey, it works. This controller was designed for HO fans to be sure but it will work on any fan-for not much more money than it costs to reliably use a relay system with a HO fan, this is a much better solution. But, everybody has their own ideas, some good, others better but as long as you can keep your motor cool, then that's the main idea anyway, right? This controller is just another option for people. -Jabin
 

87MonteSS

Master Mechanic
Jan 3, 2006
304
1
0
Winnipeg, Canada
The Intrepid fans do run parallel. Two fans and two speeds, both on in low and both on in high. Startup current is low because they start in low speed. With all accessories on and headlights on there isn't even a flicker. The second stage isn't a big kick on the system either because it's just a step up instead of a high-speed cold start.

The greatest thing about these fans is they fit right in on the G-body cars, no chopping or messing around and they can be found at the boneyards cheap. Controller choices are many and after checking the site for your controllers they do appear to be top quality. For anyone that wants to be sure of zero failure they look to be a great option. Otherwise a cheaper two stage controller won't be a problem with a Ramcharger or Intrepid setup.

I'm still not sold on the fans that you carry though. Realistically I could go to a good aluminum radiator, Intrepid fans and a two stage controller cheaper than the fan kits on your web site.

Knowing cooling systems in depth I really haven't heard a solid argument on the benefits of 3800CFM pulling through a stock rad compared to the Intrepid fans pulling through an upgraded rad. ;)

Keep in mind I did the whole conversion to electric on my Monte SS for $60. That would still leave me around $300 for an upgraded rad if I needed it.

Not trying to beat you down, just opening the door to detailed discussion. :)
 
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