- Jan 24, 2017
The GM EOS worked great for me.
I agree with all the above plus ........... I ALWAYS flood the engine with oil by spinning the oil pump until I see it coming out of the push rods. Good luck on your build!!! JZYeah, Permatex is the most affordable but their stuff is hit and miss. I saw Redline, Lucas, Comp etc. Lubriplate is one I wonder about as in any grease in a motor, will it gob up somewhere it shouldn't? I will prime the motor before start up. Spent a fortune on this motor, not looking to save $5, if one if better than another. The first oil change will literally be just a few miles with fresh non synthetic nothing special our brand Coop10W30 SN oil. Then either a Wix or K+N filter swapped with fresh oil to remove any assembly lube or shaving and dirt that might be missed. Having a roller cam is going to be awesome with nice tight clearances. Any 10W30 and no worries of a flat cam, I been down that road. At least it destroyed a $150 short block, not 5 grand like this one.
After using a moly based assembly lube, I use Schaeffer Oil because they are the only American oil Co. that adds enough moly to replace zinc which is a sacrificial product. Now there is a German based co. that also has a moly based oil .... LIQUI-MOLY.I have used Lubriplate which is essentially white lithium grease.
The main purpose of assembly lube is to supply film thickness until the oil system can splash oil everything.
A lot of marketing hype goes into assembly lube but I am not sure how much it really helps as it gets washed off in the first 10 seconds once oil flows and flushes it out of the bearings.
Moly in the lube is a good thing but again, once it gets washed out it's not doing much
You want it to be sticky/high viscosity so it doesn't fall off the cam or bearing journals before you prime the system and turn it over
But beyond that I haven't seen a scientific explanation to why it helps or matters.
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