If you want to paint your bolts I suggest painting them separate, and not getting any paint on the threads.
Best Rust treatment?
- Thread starter johnny79
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I've used POR-15 in the past and it does well IF you follow the directions properly. Keep in mind though that POR-15 should be top coated otherwise it will get chalky if subjected to sunlight (unlikely on the frame).
A product I used on my frame instead of POR-15 was called Rust Bullet. I found it easier to apply than POR-15 because you didn't need to use the speacial pre-treatments. It's also UV stable so you don't have to top coat it if you don't want to but it does only come in one color (silver) so I painted mine with Rustoleum semi-gloss black.
But as was said before, the absolute BEST way to get rid of the rust is to blast it off with a media blaster and then either powder coat or spray it with an epoxy primer and then paint.
A product I used on my frame instead of POR-15 was called Rust Bullet. I found it easier to apply than POR-15 because you didn't need to use the speacial pre-treatments. It's also UV stable so you don't have to top coat it if you don't want to but it does only come in one color (silver) so I painted mine with Rustoleum semi-gloss black.
But as was said before, the absolute BEST way to get rid of the rust is to blast it off with a media blaster and then either powder coat or spray it with an epoxy primer and then paint.
Knock the loose rust off as best as you can, spray it with ospho, (phosphoric acid) and paint with chassis saver/por -15. Cheap and effective.
I used the Eastwood kit (bought it at Carlisle). First, I used the Eastwood "Rust Converter" which is a 2 part system you need to mix together that is purple in color, but dries black. Then I used the "Rust Encapsulator" which is available in red or black. Then finally, the chassis paint. I used the gloss.
Just to note, I have not had my car out in the weather yet (still working on it...5 years now). Hope to get back into it soon before I lose interest. I'm spending too much time on the house. :|
http://www.eastwood.com/extreme-chassis-blk-w-rust-conv-suspens-kit-satin.html
Just to note, I have not had my car out in the weather yet (still working on it...5 years now). Hope to get back into it soon before I lose interest. I'm spending too much time on the house. :|
http://www.eastwood.com/extreme-chassis-blk-w-rust-conv-suspens-kit-satin.html
Permatex Rust Threatment is great for smaller parts (like your LCA) and spotting larger areas , only because it comes in a 10.25 oz spray can.
Prep is the key, wire brush and sand as needed. Works better on non-humid days, take longer to dry on sticky days.
2 lite coats work best.
Like some other products mantioned, it goes on clear, turns dark purple, then black.
Since it is black the area covers easy with a light coat of paint.
Part# is 81849 (79A)
Prep is the key, wire brush and sand as needed. Works better on non-humid days, take longer to dry on sticky days.
2 lite coats work best.
Like some other products mantioned, it goes on clear, turns dark purple, then black.
Since it is black the area covers easy with a light coat of paint.
Part# is 81849 (79A)
x5 for POR 15. My o5 Dodge w/ a Cummins developed cancer on the oil pan after 4 HARD years of snow plowing in the Northeast w/ a sh*t ton of salt on the roads. When we were cleaning the rust spots for the por treatment we popped a pinhole in the man, and I was not read to take that monster diesle out yet. We cleaned it, used some quick steel and treated the whole pan w/ por 15. Hasn't leaked a drop in a year. KNOCK, KNOCK!! Has a nice gloss black, smooth rubberized type feel when it dries. Can't beat that stuff.
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