Body bushings differences (Regal/Monte/Cutlass)

[cannoncart]

For some reason I've convinced myself that I should swap my body bushings for fresh ones on my Regal.

I ordered Energy Suspension 3.4141G and the Amazon sent me 3.4141. Funny enough, 3.4141 is for a "Regal" and the "G" is for the Monte.

I've looked under my Regal several times and there's no lower bushings in most places (I think it doubles them up on the front ones and rear ones). I need an adult to confirm to me that it's how the Regals are VS other G bodys before I either replace the bushings with these new ones OR return them to amazon to get ones with lower bushings.

It seems like it doesn't matter much but is there any benefit to adding in those lower bushings to my Regal's body mount? Here's some pictures that explain my confusion. Thank you for reading. The Cutlass is pic 1 and regal, pic 2.

EDIT: I answered my own question with a bit more research - https://www.kirbanperformance.com/p...WER+BODY+BUSHINGS+CUSHIONS+(6)+KIT+#7307.html

Based on our experience, for some reason most 1982-1987 Regals, including the Turbo Regal models, did NOT receive the #3, #4 and #7 lower body bushings/cushions! That means, in some cases, you could be missing almost half the total number of the lower body bushings/cushions that secure the body to the frame.

So now my question remains... do I buy the 6 lower bushings... or deal with amazon to resend me a new suspension set. Getting parts is the worst.

 

[Drkuhar]

Your kit from amazon should have every bushing. The kirban kit reads like it is to add them to your existing setup. With as much work as it is i would put every one in. Use the kit you ordered. The instructions for the energy suspension show all positions included. Get new bolts

 

[cannoncart]

Your kit from amazon should have every bushing. The kirban kit reads like it is to add them to your existing setup. With as much work as it is i would put every one in. Use the kit you ordered. The instructions for the energy suspension show all positions included. Get new bolts

Thanks, I'll get the new bolts for sure. I guess I'm asking how much (if any) ride improvement I'd see if I added in the lower bushings and if anyone had done that before. Fortunately I can always do that at a later date. The Kit I have has what I need. I'll be a fun, terrible job to replace these.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Adding the missing bushings improves handling and makes the body less flioppy. However, adding the bushings also increases NVH, which is why Buick left bushings out. They rather have a cushy ride than good handling.

 

[Maverick's_Monte]

God speed on this project...I attempted this years ago and ended up stopping before I really made a mess. none of the bolts wanted out...I subbed the job out to a metal guy who did some repair work and did the body mounts for me. I also remember folks saying that the new poly bushings would be squeaky, maybe I play the radio too loud, but I do not hear any squeaks...probably just old motorhead wives tales.

 

[oldsofb]

Just follow the instruction sheet included and it will turn out fine.

I hope all the bolts come out OK. The bolts behind the rear wheels can be problematic (as I found out).

Hutch

 

[69hurstolds]

The 85 Olds 442 had almost the same setup as Regals. The 3, 4 lower bushings, they used flat washers instead. However, if you had 4 more 457915 (pink) bushings, these apparently can be used in place of the washers. The pink ones are supposedly the stiffest durometer bushings to be used in these positions. They do have lower 7s, as well as the #5 sit in place ones on the rear axle hump. The other years probably are the same, but I didn't look any of those up. I got the entire set of GM bushings, spacers, washers, nuts, and bolts. The radiator support setup was pretty pricey, IIRC.

Core Support Bushings
Upper-377888 (2 req)
lower- 472160 (2 req)

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

God speed on this project...I attempted this years ago and ended up stopping before I really made a mess. none of the bolts wanted out...I subbed the job out to a metal guy who did some repair work and did the body mounts for me. I also remember folks saying that the new poly bushings would be squeaky, maybe I play the radio too loud, but I do not hear any squeaks...probably just old motorhead wives tales.

The squeak is with poly rotational suspension bushings due to stiction. Since body bushing are only subject to compression instead of rotation, the poly versions won't squeak.

 

[Drkuhar]

Thanks, I'll get the new bolts for sure. I guess I'm asking how much (if any) ride improvement I'd see if I added in the lower bushings and if anyone had done that before. Fortunately I can always do that at a later date. The Kit I have has what I need. I'll be a fun, terrible job to replace these.

I just did this on my cutlass over the winter. The kit had all 7 positions for both sides. It straightened my body sag and raised it up a bit where the old bushings had compressed. It was a noticible ride difference. Feels like it holds the frame square with the body more. I ordered new bolts.
And used lots of penatrating oil. Starting days before i started pulling bolts. The ones behind the rear wheels where rotted and broke. I used a 2 inch hole saw right above them for access and ordered 2" plugs to pop back into the holes when done

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

I am lucky all my bolts came out clean and easy. However, I still had to weld in a repair washer on the #2 passenger side frame mount, a very common trouble spot due to the poorly designed HVAC housing drain.