Body Bushings Done

[oldscutlasswagon]

I replaced all the body bushings with the red poly Energy kit today. I was really surprised to see that my wagon had the factory #5 bolt-less bushings. I guess they weren't only for the handling package cars? Anyways, the kit seems great with one exception. I had to run to the hardware store for (2) 2" OD 3/4" ID washers. All else in the kit was correct, but instead of the washers above there were (2) 2" OD 7/16" ID washers. Anyways, the car definitely feels more attached to the chassis/road. One thing that made me happy was its was apparent the more frontward bushings were more worn, and after being done it took away some of the rake my car had which I wanted.

Can anyone name me the sizes for the bushing bolts? I was able to remove all of mine without breaking any bolts or cage nuts (whew) but a few of them weren't great and I might as well do them all.

To anyone preparing to do this I will offer a few tips:
1)Hit the bolts and bushings at least a few times over a few days with penetrating lube before going to remove everything.
2)Do either drivers side or passengers side first; leave the bolts on the opposite side barely threaded in.
I supported my car with jackstands on the frame rails, positioned in a way where they wouldn't make bushing removal difficult.
3)Threading the front-most bolts on my car required using the floor jack to lift the front crossmember/frame up.
4) Fully loosen the fan shroud and associated hose loop brackets etc, and remove the battery from the car.
5)Most importantly! The one trick I found that made everything speed up is the following: Do all the top halves first (of each bushing). The trick is to use round objects like screwdrivers to keep the bushings aligned while the body is being set back down on the frame rails! Everytime the body was getting set down the washers were sliding all over the place requiring many re-do's. Once I realized I should just do all the tops and use extensions/screwdrivers to keep everything straight it was easy.

The first side took me I won't tell you how long, the second side took maybe 20 minutes...

 

[kalidromos13]

Good info to know! I will be attacking this project soon, after i do everything else that needs to be done haha Thanks for posting this!

 

[Texas82GP]

I replaced all the body bushings with the red poly Energy kit today. I was really surprised to see that my wagon had the factory #5 bolt-less bushings. I guess they weren't only for the handling package cars? Anyways, the kit seems great with one exception. I had to run to the hardware store for (2) 2" OD 3/4" ID washers. All else in the kit was correct, but instead of the washers above there were (2) 2" OD 7/16" ID washers. Anyways, the car definitely feels more attached to the chassis/road. One thing that made me happy was its was apparent the more frontward bushings were more worn, and after being done it took away some of the rake my car had which I wanted.

Can anyone name me the sizes for the bushing bolts? I was able to remove all of mine without breaking any bolts or cage nuts (whew) but a few of them weren't great and I might as well do them all.

To anyone preparing to do this I will offer a few tips:
1)Hit the bolts and bushings at least a few times over a few days with penetrating lube before going to remove everything.
2)Do either drivers side or passengers side first; leave the bolts on the opposite side barely threaded in.
I supported my car with jackstands on the frame rails, positioned in a way where they wouldn't make bushing removal difficult.
3)Threading the front-most bolts on my car required using the floor jack to lift the front crossmember/frame up.
4) Fully loosen the fan shroud and associated hose loop brackets etc, and remove the battery from the car.
5)Most importantly! The one trick I found that made everything speed up is the following: Do all the top halves first (of each bushing). The trick is to use round objects like screwdrivers to keep the bushings aligned while the body is being set back down on the frame rails! Everytime the body was getting set down the washers were sliding all over the place requiring many re-do's. Once I realized I should just do all the tops and use extensions/screwdrivers to keep everything straight it was easy.

The first side took me I won't tell you how long, the second side took maybe 20 minutes...

Did you pull your bumpers or gas tank? How high did you raise the body? Did you jack it up by the pinchweld?

 

[Longroof79]

As far as body bolts are concerned. Here is a list of GM bolt sizes and part #'s.
Position-1- #10049638 12 x 1.75 x 95mm (2-needed) sold each.

Position-3- #14085301 10 x 1.5 x 55mm long (2-needed) sold in package of 5.

Position-2, 4, 6, 7 #3524497 10 x 1.5 x 80mm long (8-needed) sold in package of 5.

You can purchase the bolts from Kirban or G-body Parts....or probably at Fastenal using the sizes indicated above. They tend to be on the pricey side buying them from the dealer. That's where I got mine at the time...but it helped knowing the parts guy.

 

[Longroof79]

Did you pull your bumpers or gas tank? How high did you raise the body? Did you jack it up by the pinchweld?

Jared,
I didn't have to pull the tank on my car when I did the bushings. But I did loosen the front and rear bumpers so they wouldn't destroy the bumper fillers.
I also jacked the car up using 2 x 4's or 2 x 3's using a floor jack on the pinch welds.
The 2x's help distribute the weight evenly.

As the author of this thread mentioned. It's imperative to shoot a good penetrating oil into the bolts.
In my case, I went out there everyday, or every other day to spray penetrant. Patience is a virtue.
After a few days, I gradually loosen the bolts using my breaker bar. I don't recommend using an impact gun. these things have to be finessed.
I was fortunate not to have any broken bolts....a few came pretty close to snapping.

I agree with how Mr. Oldscutlasswagon executed the job. I couldn't have said it better.

 

[Texas82GP]

Jared,
I didn't have to pull the tank on my car when I did the bushings. But I did loosen the front and rear bumpers so they wouldn't destroy the bumper fillers.
I also jacked the car up using 2 x 4's or 2 x 3's using a floor jack on the pinch welds.
The 2x's help distribute the weight evenly.

As the author of this thread mentioned. It's imperative to shoot a good penetrating oil into the bolts.
In my case, I went out there everyday, or every other day to spray penetrant. Patience is a virtue.
After a few days, I gradually loosen the bolts using my breaker bar. I don't recommend using an impact gun. these things have to be finessed.
I was fortunate not to have any broken bolts....a few came pretty close to snapping.

I agree with how Mr. Oldscutlasswagon executed the job. I couldn't have said it better.

Thanks Jack. Did you spray the bolts from underneath the car? I guess the penetrating oil wicks upward into the captured nut?

 

[Longroof79]

Thanks Jack. Did you spray the bolts from underneath the car? I guess the penetrating oil wicks upward into the captured nut?

Jared,
The bolts are in a tight position, so any way you can squirt penetrating oil up there will help.
I think It does wick upward.
Again, I can't stress patience enough.

 

[oldscutlasswagon]

My penetrating oil was new, and with safety goggles on i got under the car and squirted everywhere associated with the bushing. Cardboard was laid down everywhere and cloth rags galore. I used nearly the whole can before touching the bolts.
I used a long 4x4 with a 2x4 on top on the pinch welds. I almost broke the trim behind the bumper because I didn't remove anything at all.

 

[xitabl442]

When I did my bushings, I band sawed 1/4" off all my bushings before I started because I didn't want any more frame visible than when I started.

 

[Longroof79]

When I did my bushings, I band sawed 1/4" off all my bushings before I started because I didn't want any more frame visible than when I started.

So, in effect, it slightly lowers the body over the frame. Cool tip.