Body Mounts

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regalized

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 9, 2014
7
9
3
Maine
Quick question. I've been searching but I can't seem to find anyplace to purchase single body mounts rather than a whole kit. Is it possible? The two rear ones need replacing. Thanks for any info
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
20,391
113
Kitchener, Ontario
we got quick answers but you really ought to introduce yourself and pictures are always welcomed...:)

as for the body mounts the ones on the G bodies have long passed their life expectancy and should all be replaced. I have never seen them being sold individually.
 
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UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
3,048
3,264
113
Southlake, TX
Uppers and lowers or just lowers?

Is the car rusty? If yes, find something else to worry about and keep an eye out for a better G-body.

If the car isn't rusty, go ahead and attempt removing the bolts.

The rears (position 7) on a Regal:

Upper is a 1242754

Factory Lower is a Flat Washer, but you want to replace it with a 457915 "Pink" which is the stiffest of the factory Lower Bushings.

If you are building a car to handle, you want to replace all of the Lower "flat washers" with 457915 "Pinks" (Positions #3 and #4 - under the door) - 6 pinks total.

The difference between flat washers and 6 pinks is immediately noticeable. The car handles better and isn't really hash... it just doesn't feel like its bending in the middle over bumps, anymore.

This guy sells individual mounts and there is always E-bay.
 
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regalized

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 9, 2014
7
9
3
Maine
Thanks for the replies. The car has some rust, both worth saving...I hope. lol. Im looking to just get it back to driveable condition. the two rear mounts are the worst. they make slamming noises over harsh bumps. I will check that link, thanks again
 

ed1948

Royal Smart Person
Aug 6, 2016
1,286
1,613
113
Quinte West, Ontario
This is my experience - 86 SS, 90K, no winters, 99% rust free.
The body mount rubbers looked good with little deformation but the washers and bolts had visible rust. There was body shake and looseness over bumps.
When comparing old to new it was obvious replacement was justified. I had little difficulty in removing the bolts. The two front bolts were thinned from rust and one frame mount pad was rusted little oversize. Once all mounts were replaced the car became more enjoyable to drive and felt tighter. The extra 60% effort and 80% increase in parts costs to replace all, instead of 2 in your case, is well worth it. Do it once - do it right.
P1120472.JPG
 
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regalized

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 9, 2014
7
9
3
Maine
Ya, it does feel a little loose, replacing all sounds like the best way to go. Good job to do this winter me thinks!
 
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axisg

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 17, 2007
2,685
2,354
113
YYZ
Keep in mind that Eds car is the exception to the rule. Not sure where in the country you are ( and odd you have 3 posts in as many years ) but I have experience working on these cars since the late 80's in the rust belt of S.Ont. Once the body is sliding around and the frame is knocking the body it's as rare as "pink unicorn feathers" the bolts ( if they exist ) come out intact. If you do get into trouble then google perhaps Conrad Lozier for replacement body patches before he runs out of stock.
So if it rattles over railroad tracks I would imagine all 4 are shot ( and likely some missing ). Its easy enough to climb under the car to check.
If the bolts are broke you can peel back the skin over the body mount pockets in the trunk and pull out the metric diamond cage nuts. Then my preference is to use SAE bolts, large flat washers top, middle, bottom and nyloc nuts to put it back together instead of locating metric bolts and trying to clean up the caged nuts ( one person in the trunk and one under the car, torqued to 45 ft/lbs IIRC ).
Conrad used to use hockey pucks chucked in a lathe to make the indent to fit in the frame hole to serve as a temp repair for a replacement bushing. You can then cut some sheet metal patches and body seam over the holes you make in the trunk for a semi-permanent repair until you get around to separating the body from the frame to change them all. I believe the term is "rolling restoration" LOL
 
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partsbox

Greasemonkey
May 22, 2016
160
305
63
Maryland
Agree with ed1948: Do it once - do it right.
Replaced mine with urethane mounts from Prothane and it's so much better.
Here's what my factory rubber mounts looked like on a mildly rusty frame:
IMG_3173-vi.jpg


IMG_3195-vi.jpg


IMG_3212-vi.jpg
 
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regalized

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 9, 2014
7
9
3
Maine
I'm in Maine so I'm sure my bolts will be near non-existent with my luck. Had a body shop look at it and they want $150-200 per side to fix the back two, number 7's. Not bad
 
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Trigger87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 17, 2017
8
10
3
AB, Canada
I will second what all these guys are saying, I just pulled the body off my frame for a full resto and my rear mounts the bolts broke in half. My 2 rear frame rails are almost non-existent!!! Conrad has new replacements in the mail now, should be here Tuesday so now the fun begins!!
 

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