Bracing body to remove from frame

  • Thread starter joesregalproject
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joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2012
4,398
113
Pittsburgh, PA
I talked about this briefly in my build thread but I think it should have it's own thread. I'm going to be lifting the body off of the frame, and I want to avoid putting any additional stress off on the body and avoid causing it to flex or buckle while it's up. Last thing I need is the pillars to crack or some crap.

20200626_190206.jpg


The car will not have floors in it and I will be working on the driver's side inner rocker, so any strength that those panels provide won't be there. I plan on lifting it up in a similar manner as I did last time, but I want to know what some of your guys' thoughts are on where and how I should brace the body.

joe2014300.jpg
 
M

maxi426

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 20, 2018
43
18
I would think diagonally across the door opening. Something bolted to the lower door hinge area, and welded high on the B pillar
 
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joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2012
4,398
113
Pittsburgh, PA
Also, not sure if I'll be able to do it or not, but I'd like to leave the doors on if at all possible.
 
oldsofb

oldsofb

G-Body Guru
Dec 7, 2007
978
93
Maryland
I braced the door openings like this
Door Bracing 1.JPG

Door Bracing 2.JPG


If there's no floor you could weld to the door bracing in an X pattern across the inside of the body. I would weld cross beams in several spots from L door opening to R door to keep the body from spreading.

You could just keep it on the frame to replace the floor pan, then once it's fully tack welded in place around the entire perimeter, lift it off the body.

Hutch
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2012
4,398
113
Pittsburgh, PA
I braced the door openings like this
View attachment 150390
View attachment 150391

If there's no floor you could weld to the door bracing in an X pattern across the inside of the body. I would weld cross beams in several spots from L door opening to R door to keep the body from spreading.

You could just keep it on the frame to replace the floor pan, then once it's fully tack welded in place around the entire perimeter, lift it off the body.

Hutch
I appreciate the pictures. I think that might be a good idea to tack weld the floor into place then lift it up. My only real concern is addressing this inner rocker area on the drivers side. The outer rocker is fine.

20200627_162506.jpg
 
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Rktpwrd

Rktpwrd

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 2, 2015
2,779
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I appreciate the pictures. I think that might be a good idea to tack weld the floor into place then lift it up. My only real concern is addressing this inner rocker area on the drivers side. The outer rocker is fine.

View attachment 150395
Joe, I personally wouldn’t attempt to lift the body off the frame with the doors attached, too much unnecessary weight with no real structural benefits there. The body can twist enough with or without added bracing with the doors on. Plus every time you open one you’re changing where the stresses are placed on the body and negating any strength you might’ve had with them closed.

I’m all for adding bracing wherever possible inside that won’t interfere with your access to doing the floor pans, but I’m with Hutch on this one where I think it would be a better plan to get as much of the new floor pans in place and tacked in before trying to lift the body off. In conjunction with bracing of course. That’s where the strength you need is gonna come from.

I disagree slightly with the suggestion of attaching the bracing anywhere too high on the “A” and “B” pillars, you need the strength down low mostly to replace what the floor pans provided. Try and build a square inside and welded to the body down low above the floor, then cross brace from that up to the pillars.

When I get back on The Juggernaut this fall, serious floor modifications are pretty high on the priority list, as they need to be done before I can lift the body back off to finish off the stainless fuel line plumbing on the frame. The frame is what I really wanna be working on, but priorities dictate that the floor needs to be solid before the body can come back off.

Just my thoughts and 2 cents.
 
Techman

Techman

Apprentice
Jul 18, 2017
83
33
When I did mine I didn’t weld anything. I put a brace from the upper hinge to the door striker bolt. The a brace from the lower hinge diagonal to the top bar.
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2012
4,398
113
Pittsburgh, PA
Joe, I personally wouldn’t attempt to lift the body off the frame with the doors attached, too much unnecessary weight with no real structural benefits there. The body can twist enough with or without added bracing with the doors on. Plus every time you open one you’re changing where the stresses are placed on the body and negating any strength you might’ve had with them closed.

I’m all for adding bracing wherever possible inside that won’t interfere with your access to doing the floor pans, but I’m with Hutch on this one where I think it would be a better plan to get as much of the new floor pans in place and tacked in before trying to lift the body off. In conjunction with bracing of course. That’s where the strength you need is gonna come from.

I disagree slightly with the suggestion of attaching the bracing anywhere too high on the “A” and “B” pillars, you need the strength down low mostly to replace what the floor pans provided. Try and build a square inside and welded to the body down low above the floor, then cross brace from that up to the pillars.

When I get back on The Juggernaut this fall, serious floor modifications are pretty high on the priority list, as they need to be done before I can lift the body back off to finish off the stainless fuel line plumbing on the frame. The frame is what I really wanna be working on, but priorities dictate that the floor needs to be solid before the body can come back off.

Just my thoughts and 2 cents.
I appreciate the input Donovan. I get what you mean with the doors, probably best to take them off. I think you guys are right in that I should get the floor in place before I start lifting the body up. I just want to make sure that by tacking the floor in place, I don't paint myself into a corner with new metal when I got to address the inner rocker, which has to be done with the body off the frame.
 
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64nailhead

64nailhead

Royal Smart Person
Dec 1, 2014
1,340
113
Upstate NY
x2 or 3 on fix that floor before taking the body off the frame.

With that said, I recently swapped a frame and also in the not so recent past picked the body off the frame t weld in new tail pieces on my sons car and never braced a thing, actually never thought there was a need. My MC I had the doors opened and closed 100 times and I was climbing inside to weld the cage - (oops). It all went back on pretty well IMO. But I'm not doing work like D is either, so take my comment with a grain of salt.
 
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