Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop

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Canon_Mutant

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Aug 15, 2015
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Yeah, but one advantage I have is this car only has 28K miles, 100% garaged, and has never seen a winter street. All my frame rust is purely superficial which is why I was so shocked to learn my body bushings were crumbling. Just 30+ years of rubber rot. So I should be OK. But having it out, I am MUCH more comfortable welding down and sideways than up - on the frame box and rear notch mods or anything else that crops up? Then can properly clean and coat before it goes back together.

While out, will I bite the bullet and go 950 EFI, more cam, and headers? The rest of my big block is good to go as is (425 forged rotating assy can handle the extra power/rpms, heads can handle the extra cfm). Or live with the completely wimpy and inadequate 450/550 it has now? :unsure:

Going on 14 years ago now when I built it, that was a LOT of freakin’ power for a street rod. :rolleyes: Now, I’d get outrun by a freakin Dodge Neon.
 
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Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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One issue with the #2 mount is that the HVAC drains water right on it. Mine was rusted out despite all my mounting bolts easily coming out clean and reusable. You just never know.

Don't worry about keeping up with the Jones too much. Our G bodies are antiques from a bygone era, it would be like comparing a Model T to a stock 57 Bel Air to compare a G body to modern stuff, even the GNs. Everything becomes dated, and even the LS series is getting long in the tooth.
 
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Pablo’s Buick Garage

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 14, 2019
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Thanks for the pics. So, without the bump stop, what happens when your control arms smack the frame? EDIT: The SPCs do look a lot stouter "on the car!"

And, FWIW, I am back talking to UMI about their suspension package that is on sale for $3600. $600 more than I want to spend [now anyway] but it has new "adjustable" CAs along with everything else AND can go back to the adjustability [tweakability?] of Viking COs up front and Viking shocks out back . . . a luxury which I had given up on. I am just trying to get a price on adding fully boxed lowers and relocation brackets in exchange for the more expensive Delrin bushings [poly is good enough for me when properly lubed anyway] and taller BJs on the upper CAs only.

So my revised list may be changing again . . . stay tuned!

52617150c0f1a06008c18032ae22fcaa.jpg
umi all the way! I looked at those mono tubes from umi. Those aren’t ride height adjustable. Just rebound.



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Pablo’s Buick Garage

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 14, 2019
42
109
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While you are doing all this work, you should also think about reinforcing the frame and body. One of the weakest areas are the rear LCA frame mounts. Plenty of turbo Buicks have twisted or sheared their LCA mounts. Boxed arms and poly bushings transmit more stress into the LCA mounts.

Tune in to my YouTube channel to see what to brace on the frame. Pablo’s Buick Garage. It’s a lot of work but well worth it


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TURNA

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Jul 24, 2009
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Tune in to my YouTube channel to see what to brace on the frame. Pablo’s Buick Garage. It’s a lot of work but well worth it


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You have some nice things!!!!!
 
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Canon_Mutant

Royal Smart Person
Aug 15, 2015
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Don't worry about keeping up with the Jones too much. Our G bodies are antiques from a bygone era, it would be like comparing a Model T to a stock 57 Bel Air to compare a G body to modern stuff, even the GNs. Everything becomes dated, and even the LS series is getting long in the tooth.

Yeah, I know. It is ONLY that, by doing this separation, [mainly] swapping the cam would be easy to do that I am even considering it. 450/550 off the 87 CCC/ECM is still kinda cool and part of me wants to leave that well enough alone. But, I also remember the feeling I had getting absolutely dusted by a Datsun 280 on the way home with my brand new 442 in late '86 and, though my age and health will prevent me from like joining the Optima Series tour, I am doing this to make this car "competitive" in that type of environment. Be a shame to find out that, after all the mods, my first time out I get that feeling all over again . . . because of being down on power again.

Go get'em, dawg! If you're in there, MAW notch the frame for meats out back. Are you looking to adopt? I know a 47 yr old Oldsfanatic.... :whistle:

TA . . . DA . . .

IMG_1607.jpg


Tune in to my YouTube channel to see what to brace on the frame. Pablo’s Buick Garage. It’s a lot of work but well worth it

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Thanks for chiming in. Common sense would dictate that thinning out the frame rail over the hump has to weaken it. I was contemplating just some added angle pieces put in at perceived stress points but your block concept would certainly work too and [might] be easier. Nice thought either way though.

I wish you had a build thread here since I don't spend a whole lot of time on Youtube but I'll try to make an effort. Good information there.
 
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fleming442

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I'm going to guess that the bolt-on TBI injection systems weren't as plentiful when you started as they are today..... That being said, one of those would open your horizons well beyond the capabilities of the factory CCC system.
 

Canon_Mutant

Royal Smart Person
Aug 15, 2015
1,159
1,420
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I'm going to guess that the bolt-on TBI injection systems weren't as plentiful when you started as they are today..... That being said, one of those would open your horizons well beyond the capabilities of the factory CCC system.

Truthfully? Just once I’d like to call tech support and, when I ask what they can offer, have them say “not a damn thing, go away, you’re an idiot for even considering this!”

At least my wife would appreciate it . . .:rolleyes:

But, Holley “likely” has what I’m looking for. 950cfm and “dial a tune” to economize the drive and performance for when you arrive? A little more lift and duration to move it through. Would prefer moving to the Air Gap intake and maybe use my Performer on the 67? But that requires at least a 2” cowl hood (ca-ching) but maybe go fiber and save some weight?

I wish Thornton would flow these against their WZs. Looks like they would flow better but I trust the bench or at least the dyno. Without headers, adding CFM up top would be a waste of time.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=183545029556

But you’re right, back then all you could do is punt the ECM and go bigger or dual carb and blow gas out the tailpipes. Mondello had a rudimentary split rail injection system that as I recall was not very reliable. Hence the “what if” talks with Kevin began on what the CCC “could do?”

I had a “DOS Prompt” :wtf:based laptop program that would collect all the data the ECM could see via the OBD1. Kevin had worked for the 3rd party outfit GM hired to write the ECM code so he knew how to build the tables.
 
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Canon_Mutant

Royal Smart Person
Aug 15, 2015
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umi all the way! I looked at those mono tubes from umi. Those aren’t ride height adjustable. Just rebound.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have to go back and look if I updated? I actually did not end up buying the "kit" from UMI. A lot of it though. And, since I found that 67 442 I had to have that needs springs and shocks [among other things] and they fit, I moved the Eibach Springs and Bilstein AKs from my 87 build over to it and went with Viking adjustable COs up front with the matching discrete Viking rear shock and spring. Well, minus the matching rear springs, here they are . . .

Maybe when I get the frame and body separated and those mods done, I'll update the build list as I am putting it back together again . . . [do it twice!]!

IMG_1070.jpg
 
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