Calling all paint and body guys (Guitar project)

[Kwik_Cutty88]

For my girlfriends birthday this year, I am refinishing an old electric guitar I had. I don't have any paint equipment (guns, proper compressor, etc). So I opted to try to spray it with this "system" I found.

https://usa.specialistpaints.com/co...om-canz-candy-aerosol-kit?variant=27666767427

I know I should not expect a Barrett Jackson finish, and I know spraying with a conventional paint gun and better products would yield a better result. I have sprayed small stuff with rattle cans and gotten a decent glossy finish, so I figured I'd give this a shot and see what happens.

So far I sanded the entire guitar with 100 to knock down the old, thick paint. Then went up to 320 before primer. I used this for primer (in black)

https://duplicolor.com/product/sandable-primer

I sanded the primer dry with 400, then shot another 2 coats of primer, then wet with 400. I have not sprayed the final coats of primer, that will be this weekend.

While mapping out my plan of attack for final paint, I've run across this dilemma. This particular guitar neck has a bare wood area that was cleared over, and the adjacent section was paint. I've sanded all the clear off the bare wood part, and then masked over it for primer. I'm planning on just clearing over it like it was originally.

How would I go about masking this for paint? I'll want to mask the bare wood off when shooting the base/candy, but then unmask it when I clear the whole guitar, correct?. How do I go about masking this without getting the oil from hands all over the paint when I remove the tape before clear? And then how would I clean the tape residue before clear?

I hope my questions make sense. If you can't answer, can you point me to good resources to learn or get information about this sort of stuff? I did some googling, and was just immediately overwhelmed trying to sift through it all.

 

[joesregalproject]

You need high quality masking tape. Regular blue painters tape will bleed like hell. Go to an auto body supply shop and tell them you want the best masking tape they have. I use the 3M yellow stuff.

You'll want to mask off what you don't want painted, paint your base coat, then unmask and clear the whole thing. Using a quality tape you won't have any tape residue. Wash you hands really well with blue Dawn soap and you won't have to worry about the oil from your hands getting on it. If you want, wear unpowdered rubber gloves. You can wipe it down with wax and grease remover before spraying the base coat, but don't wipe uncleared base coat with w&g remover. It will wipe the paint right off. I use GON for wax and grease remover.

I would try painting a test piece first as the products you are using may react with each other. That way you'll know how it works out before you do it for real on the guitar.

 

[307 Regal]

I've used green masking tape with good results. I painted my bass guitar back in high school but did it with spray cans. It turned out well but my clear coat was tacky.

As far as useful advice from me, I guess I'd say use as many coats as you're comfortable with. Guitars are, by design, constantly being touched and rubbing against your body. And let's not forget about carrying them in bags when we don't have cases. The finish needs to be durable. (Unless one wants a worn look.)

 

[307 Regal]

Also maybe try rubber gloves when masking. [shrug] Might keep the oils off the wood. Not sure if anything harmful would transfer from the glove itself; I wouldn't think so.

 

[Ribbedroof]

3M fine line tape for separation areas, we use the green 3M tape at the shop for general masking.

Nitrile gloves, and if you're really worried about it, a little wax/grease remover wipe should be fine, just don't soak it in.

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

Thanks for the tips guys, all were helpful for sure. Luckily, my local advanced auto carries some of the yellow and "fine line" 3M tape. I have some scrap aluminum that I will be using as a test panel. Unfortunately I don't have any room in our garage to make a "paint booth", so I'm going to make one out of our enclosed car heater. I'll have to watch the weather and humidity, but next weekend looks like it'll be ok. I have a space heater if need be. I also have a little blue blower fan that I'll be using to make an exhaust out of the trailer. I have some spare home air filters I can also use to try to keep dust and trash out of the air.

 

[jlcustomz]

I've built a few guitars over half my life ago, used pre-cat lacquer clear back then.
With an interior type application here, you can get away with a lesser quality clear not being beat by the elements.
Never got the chance to try the 2 part rattle cans of 2k clear, but I think their fair for small jobs. Even show paint you sand & buff to get the true flat reflective finishes any ole ways.
Finish will shrink into wood somewhat & I usually always sand first or 2nd coat on wood at least a little before more coats. For an aerosol can, average coats may be a little thin. I'd do 2 or maybe 3 & let cure for a few days or even longer if not in a hurry, then sand with probably a 600 grit to smooth it out being careful particularly on the painted part not to hit through anywhere. Then another 2 or 3 coats, let dry. Depending on finish, I may start with 1000 grit , then 1500, 2000, 3000. Could hit with 3-m triact 5000 grit dry paper & then buff or start buffing.

 

[xitabl442]

Do you have another piece of wood for a test panel?

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

Do you have another piece of wood for a test panel?

I might, but I have no idea what sort of wood the guitar is. Maybe I can sand down an old scrap just to see if the paint will end up shrinking.

EDIT: Its basswood. And my local home depot has basswood. I have to go there to get a few things anyway, so I'll grab some and use it as a sample.

 

[1evilregal]

sounds like a cool project! make sure to post some pics when you're finished!