Can I remove my ODB1? (not a legal question)

Status
Not open for further replies.

86LK

Royal Smart Person
Jul 23, 2018
1,937
1,986
113
I run a ZZ4 (came with HEI) Running an Edelbrock Q-Jet. Took out the complete CCC setup, the harness entry into the pax floor is pugged by sheet metal cut to fit the opening, held in place with screws. All the other electronic pieces that make the system came off. Cruise Control will not function, but my foot is calibrated. The ZZ4 uses only some connectors that are the basic wiring to make it run.
if you pull the CCC computer and convert to vacuum distributor, you lose Cruise Control? I did not know that! Never even heard about it over on the ECCentral forums. Good thing I haven't gotten to that point yet!
 

cloudhome

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 6, 2020
15
20
3
Glenview Illinois
Forgot to mention: the trans convertor lock up can be activated by a toggle switch...I used to do this and just hit it when I was above 30 MPH or so. I have since put on the B&M lock up controller, which gives me the ability to dial in what speed it activates. Also added a vacuum switch so it unlocks the convertor when you tromp on it. Easy to do, you can buy the vacuum switch at Summit or Jegs. I think there's a way to retain the cruise control, as long as you supply power to the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor), but I don't remember now.
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
3,827
2,564
113
Galaxy far far away
Forgot to mention: the trans convertor lock up can be activated by a toggle switch...I used to do this and just hit it when I was above 30 MPH or so. I have since put on the B&M lock up controller, which gives me the ability to dial in what speed it activates. Also added a vacuum switch so it unlocks the convertor when you tromp on it. Easy to do, you can buy the vacuum switch at Summit or Jegs. I think there's a way to retain the cruise control, as long as you supply power to the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor), but I don't remember now.

Or you could just keep the CCC and use the saved money for better projects like headers or a cam.
 

jiho

Royal Smart Person
Jul 26, 2013
1,001
508
113
I think the OP is gone already. Y'all are talking to each other. :mrgreen:
 
  • Agree
  • Like
  • Haha
Reactions: 2 users

Cuse99

Master Mechanic
Dec 21, 2020
251
126
43
I think the OP is gone already. Y'all are talking to each other. :mrgreen:
I'm still watching here and there, but I think all my questions have been answered. At the moment I'm running a Summit 650 CFM carb, no connection to the computer or my lock up.
Car runs fine and lock up is not that big a deal with a 305 and I'l bet by the looks and sound that it's 75% of its original efficiency. I doubt I'm loosing that much money on gas with no lock up. Once I get my new motor, and I'm looking at the Chevy HO turn key, I'll drop the computer and get a lock up kit for the trans. Other then the Check Engine Light I should be good.

Only thing is I might want the EFI. Just not sure yet.
 

Bonnewagon

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
10,536
14,217
113
Queens, NY
Car runs fine and lock up is not that big a deal
When I had a 301 V-8 and a Turbo 350-C lockup trans I did the dash switch thing. It was very easy as the four wire connector on the side of the trans was intact. I learned that one wire is hot 12 volts and the computer just acts as a ground to enable the lockup. So I seperated the ground and ran it to a toggle switch at the dash. What I found was that at highway speed (60mph) the lockup dropped the rpms by 300 to 350. So to me that was a substantial amount and I got into the habit of leaving it off around town and locking up on the highway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Cuse99

Master Mechanic
Dec 21, 2020
251
126
43
When I had a 301 V-8 and a Turbo 350-C lockup trans I did the dash switch thing. It was very easy as the four wire connector on the side of the trans was intact. I learned that one wire is hot 12 volts and the computer just acts as a ground to enable the lockup. So I seperated the ground and ran it to a toggle switch at the dash. What I found was that at highway speed (60mph) the lockup dropped the rpms by 300 to 350. So to me that was a substantial amount and I got into the habit of leaving it off around town and locking up on the highway.
Did you ever forget to turn it off when you came down from highway speeds? What happened? Did you ever try to keep it locked up from the line?
 

Bonnewagon

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
10,536
14,217
113
Queens, NY
Did you ever forget to turn it off when you came down from highway speeds?
Yes. There is an internal switch in the T-350C that only allows lockup in high gear. So it should release. I say "should" because every once in a while it would seem to stay on longer than it should while coasting and downshifting. It had 100k so maybe was a bit sticky. I left the brake pedal switch intact so it would release when the brake was applied. But when you are going up a hill or something stressful, it had no way of knowing because all the OBD-1 CCC sensors were deleted. Normally when you put your foot down the MAP sensor would tell the computer to release. You could end up lugging engine on a long steep incline. But I never came to a stop and had the engine stall because the lockup stayed on. That happened to my Mom's Oldsmobile and it stalled at every stop. I had to replace her lockup solenoid in the valve body with a superseded design.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor